- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
Hi Folks- 
This is one of those "love it or hate it" type of knives (I know many of you, even many of my good friends, will fall into the hate it group :foot:
). A more wordy description to follow the photos.
Blade[/B][/U]- W2 steel. OAL- 7-11/16" Blade length- 3-3/8" from plunge to tip X ~1" wide at widest point
Handle- W2 steel
Sheath- Hand saddle stitched veg tanned leather with pocket clip (back is lined to enclose clip)
Thank you for looking!!!
[video=youtube;463dSPAd5GQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=463dSPAd5GQ&list=UUM3ezocAUFI1HtIi4V7SLmw&index=3[/video]
So here's the skinny on this knife...
One day after forging down a big bowie from some 1-3/4" W2 round-stock, I had a small piece of the billet left over and I was still in the forging mood. So I hammered the small piece out into what is a pretty typical (for me) full tang hunter design.
I really like texture in certain applications. I have a set of heavy texturing dies I made for the press, and I went ahead and squished them into the little hunter.
I differentially hardened the blade, finish ground it to 500X on the disc sander, and then etched it heavily. AFTER that, I hand sanded the blade, and then did a light vinegar etch to give the hamon more of a white coloring. I did it in that order to get a different look, and to purposely put some light pitting in the bevel to go with the overall look of the knife. The entire profile (minus the cutting edge) was rounded and mirror polished.
I like the look and have found it's more challenging to make a "crude" knife and make it look like you did it on purpose than many folks would think. These type of blades are surprisingly comfortable for a knife without scales... IMHO
For the sheath, I wanted something that could be carried in the side pocket of Carhartts. I made a texturing stamp for leather that matches the forging die pretty closely.
This is one of those "love it or hate it" type of knives (I know many of you, even many of my good friends, will fall into the hate it group :foot:
). A more wordy description to follow the photos. Blade[/B][/U]- W2 steel. OAL- 7-11/16" Blade length- 3-3/8" from plunge to tip X ~1" wide at widest point
Handle- W2 steel
Sheath- Hand saddle stitched veg tanned leather with pocket clip (back is lined to enclose clip)
Thank you for looking!!!
[video=youtube;463dSPAd5GQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=463dSPAd5GQ&list=UUM3ezocAUFI1HtIi4V7SLmw&index=3[/video]
So here's the skinny on this knife...
One day after forging down a big bowie from some 1-3/4" W2 round-stock, I had a small piece of the billet left over and I was still in the forging mood. So I hammered the small piece out into what is a pretty typical (for me) full tang hunter design.
I really like texture in certain applications. I have a set of heavy texturing dies I made for the press, and I went ahead and squished them into the little hunter.
I differentially hardened the blade, finish ground it to 500X on the disc sander, and then etched it heavily. AFTER that, I hand sanded the blade, and then did a light vinegar etch to give the hamon more of a white coloring. I did it in that order to get a different look, and to purposely put some light pitting in the bevel to go with the overall look of the knife. The entire profile (minus the cutting edge) was rounded and mirror polished.
I like the look and have found it's more challenging to make a "crude" knife and make it look like you did it on purpose than many folks would think. These type of blades are surprisingly comfortable for a knife without scales... IMHO
For the sheath, I wanted something that could be carried in the side pocket of Carhartts. I made a texturing stamp for leather that matches the forging die pretty closely.
