Fusion Style Kotanto - full process photo essay

Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
297
This year there has been some discussion around here about small fixed blade edc knives as well as classical japanese inspired takedown knives...this minimalist kotanto project is an exploration of implementing nihonto geometry and construction into a fusion style edc/outdoor knife.

"The Japanese swordsmithing tradition has been in place for generations and many of the design elements have been tested and refined for centuries. With careful study and practice, this can be a solid foundation for today's bladesmiths and knifemakers to build their work upon."

Here is where we are headed...

fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-33.jpg



...hang on!
 
Hizukuri: Forging the Blade

fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-0.jpg

The raw material for this blade comes from a reclaimed shear steel leaf spring taken from a horse-drawn carriage and estimated to be a century and a half old.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-2.jpg

The steel is forged into a rectangular bar called sunobe. The sunobe determines the volume of steel allocated to the blade and tang and largely the final dimensions. The tip is cut at a 45 degree angle and filed smooth to prevent cold shuts. Note that the edge is facing up in this photo.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-3.jpg

The tip is then forged to the opposite position, running the layers of the steel along the edge. Note that the edge is still facing up in this photo.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-4.jpg

The peak of the spine is forged to shape next, followed by the bevels. A thin layer of water on the anvil creates steam explosions that clean the forge scale off the steel, preventing it from building up and marring the surface.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-5.jpg

Any excess is hot cut from the end of the tang. At this point all of the shaping has been done with the hammer alone.




Ara-Shiage: Shaping the Blade

fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-6.jpg

Using a file, the profile of the blade is cleaned up and the machi are made true.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-7.jpg

The bevels are cleaned and shaped using a hardened steel scraper called a sen.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-9.jpg

The rough scraped surface left by sen.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-10.jpg

Filing and drawfiling are used to true and smooth the surface left by the sen.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-11.jpg

The rough filed surface left by drawfiling. At this point the edge is left 1-2mm thick in order to decrease the chances of warping and cracking during hardening. A coarse stone may also be used to ensure the surfaces are a straight and true as possible before yaki-ire.




Yaki-Ire: Hardening the Blade

fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-12.jpg

Applying the clay layers in preparation for hardening the steel (yaki-ire). The thicker layer insulates the steel, causing it too cool slower and form pearlite/ferrite. The thin layer on the edge increases the surface area, causing it to cool faster, forming martensite.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-13.jpg

A blade is born. The steel has hardened successfully without cracking, a file will not cut the edge at all but slides off without biting.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-15.jpg

The clay is removed, the edge, straightness, and shape of the blade are inspected. Then the steel is cleaned and tempered to remove some of the internal stress.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-16.jpg

An inspection polish with a coarse waterstone reveals a distinct hamon marking the division between the tougher blade and harder edge. The blade is shaped on coarse stones until it reaches final geometry and then all other mounting work is done before the final polish.
 
Making the Guard

fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-18.jpg

The guard is forged and then drilled and chiseled to create the opening.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-19.jpg

The opening is carefully enlarged and shaped to fit the blade, and the back is flattened on a diamond stone. Once the handle block is ready for shaping, it will be sawed and filed to an oval profile.



Carving the Handle

fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-20.jpg

The Wenge accent is drilled with a kiri and carefully carved and filed to fit tightly to the tang and flush with the back of the guard. This greatly increases the complexity of carving and fitting and is not recommended on a first attempt.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-21.jpg

A block of Sapele is sawn in half and the outline of the tang traced on the inside of the omote half.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-24.jpg

The tang sits halfway in on the spine side but flush on the edge side.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-25.jpg

The inside of the ura half is carved, checking often to ensure a snug fit an proper alignment with the omote block. The tang sits halfway in on the spine side but not at all on the edge side.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-26.jpg

The pieces fit and are ready to be glued together and tightly wrapped and wedged until cured. In this case a strong adhesive made from rice paste and urushi will be used.



Shaping the Handle

fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-27.jpg

After the glue is fully cured, the handle block can be taken down to size using a hand plane.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-28.jpg

Next the profile of the guard is traced onto the block and the rest of the shaping and carving is done with kanna, chisels, rasps, and kiridashi. After sanding the handle is ready for several coats of fukiurushi, each requiring several days to cure.
 
Final Assembly

fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-31.jpg

When all of the components are complete, the blade is given a final polish using progressively finer natural waterstones and finishing with fingerstones to bring out the character and detail of the steel.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-40.jpg

A natural waterstone polished hamon is subtle but can be seen clearly at a certain angle of light. There is also some evidence of the shear steel hada on the surface of the blade.


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-41.jpg


fusion-fixed-blade-edc-kotanto-33.jpg



See the full specs and more finished photos: Available Work: Fusion Style Kotanto
View the full article on the making process: Case Study: Making an Outdoor Knife


Yoroshiku!
 
Beautiful knife and photo essay.
Appreciate you taking the time and effort to do so.
Really enjoyed it.
Dozier
Accuracy beats speed
 
I am grateful for artisans such as yourself -- if it weren't for folks like you, all-thumbs people like me would never own beautiful, handmade items. I always look forward to your threads in this subforum!
 
Back
Top