Summary
After some bush and light tree clearing, I am disappointed with the performance of the forward curved khukuri (FWCK). The sweat spot is too small and located too close to the tip. The forward angle may be too much. It is not my first choice khukuri for what I typically do. The blade decorations are a hindrance in the field. The blade decorations, interferes function of the chakmas. On a positive note blade is very good. It pierced a 55-gallon drum with no damage and there was very minor rolling on the edge when I tried to chop into the drum. The only other damage is a loose butt cap.
While Im not impressed with its field performance it was so unusual I bought the khukuri.
Preliminary Preparations
The FWCK passed the slap test made famous by Dave K. This is where the blade is slapped against a tree on its flats hard. No damage was noticed.
The knife was sharpened so that it could shave hair from my arms readily. There was a consistent burr on the edge of the khukuri. Sharpening took about 15 minutes with the course Spyderco stone. A straight section starts at the beginning of the forward curve and runs for 5.5. The stone slides over the straight section easier than near the tip. The straight is harder than the tip. The stone grabs much more near the tip. Unfortunately, the belly (where the sweet spot is located) is included in the softer section.
Chopping Yard Waste
The FWCK was used to chop up some branches that I wanted to burn in a 55-gallon drum. The FWCK was stabbed into the drum to produce air holes. The tip and edge was undamaged by this. A Mission MPK (A2) was also used to poke holes into the drum and was also undamaged. I tried chopping on the sides of the drum to produce larger holes with the FWCK. I could not chop through the drum but put large dents into the drum. The knife was very slightly rolled in four spots from chopping. The most severe damage was half circle peens that are 0.25 mm in radius. These are barely visible and were steeled out with the chakma from an 18 AK. Steel and heat treat must be pretty decent in the FWCK.
I used a tree stump as a chopping board to assist in chop the branches into smaller sizes. I found I could not use the straight section. As the tip would impact against the stump before this section could contact whatever I was chopping. Unfortunately, the straight seems to be the hardest section of the FWCK. I then used the belly, which starts after the straight and ends about 1 from the tip, to chop with. This must be the sweet spot. The results were much better and I had no problems breaking through 4 diameter branches. Chopping completely through them would take many more chops. I found the sweet spot to be too small and located too close to the tip. The sweet spot in the 2 belly. I used my 18 Ang Khola for a short time to compare its performance to that of the FWCK. I could use the straight section and the much larger belly of the Ang Khola as effectively as the belly of the FWCK. After doing this for about 7 hours, the 6 years of branch accumulation was burnt up. The tip was quite dull.
Trail Clearing
The following day, I used the FWCK, 18 Ang Khola, 17.5 WWII, and 22 Sirupati to assist in opening 100 m of lane. Most of the trees that had to be chopped down or had limbs removed are 4-6 diameter cedar.
The cedar trees were brought down by first chopping a V into one side so that the tree could be pulled over. This required between 6-12 chops. After each chop the khukuri was twisted hard to remove as much wood as possible. I was surprised with the amount of variation in the number of hits required for similar sized trees. Once the tree was pulled over the connecting piece was chopped through using the stump as a chopping block. This usually required only 1-2 chops. The whole process takes under 5 minutes. The cedar was found to over 30 years.
When things worked well for the FWCK it gave similar performance as the 18 AK and 22 Sirupati. Cedar is very soft and it was more productive to chop with the large straight section rather than the small sweet spot. The tip would often strike or become entangle in nearby branches as I was using the straight. While the belly did penetrate deeper it would not remove as much wood as the straight. The WWII would sometime require only a couple more chops.
The FWCK did not remove limbs as well as the other khukuris. I struck the limb as close to the tree as possible for optimum results. In order to perform as well as the other khukuris, the sweet spot must be used. I could easily employ the larger sweet spots of the other khukuris. My aim was not good enough to consistently hit with the sweet spot with the FWCK. Also, the belly dulled faster than the straight of the other khukuris.
Larger and Slightly Harder Trees
I used the FW and 18 Ang Khola to bring down a 7 diameter dead spruce tree. The spruce is definitely harder than the cedar. The FW was not used for very long. It was mildly painful when the sweet spot was employed. There was too much shock transmitted to my hands. The 18 Ang Khola ended up doing most of the work. The 18" Ang Khola would still shave the odd hair after chopping down the tree.
Prying
The FWCK was used to pry loose two trees that got caught on the remaining stump and overhead branches. To move the trees the khukuri was used as a lever. The fulcrum was located about 5 from the tip and 0.25 of the tip was underneath the tree. Pulling on the handle with 60% of my 180-lb clothed weight freed the trees. The FWCK deflected very little, about 3 degree. This does not mean much since the trees were supported elsewhere but they were well over 200 lb.
Blade Decorations and Maintenance
The engravings on the blade filled with mashed wood. This is difficult to field clean. In order to remove all the wood trapped in the decorations I had to wash the blade with hot soap and water.
**** The decorations on the chakma must go! The sides of the chakma do not work with the hatching and circles. I know most people do not use these and the edge can still be used, but they should be completely functional.
Will
After some bush and light tree clearing, I am disappointed with the performance of the forward curved khukuri (FWCK). The sweat spot is too small and located too close to the tip. The forward angle may be too much. It is not my first choice khukuri for what I typically do. The blade decorations are a hindrance in the field. The blade decorations, interferes function of the chakmas. On a positive note blade is very good. It pierced a 55-gallon drum with no damage and there was very minor rolling on the edge when I tried to chop into the drum. The only other damage is a loose butt cap.
While Im not impressed with its field performance it was so unusual I bought the khukuri.
Preliminary Preparations
The FWCK passed the slap test made famous by Dave K. This is where the blade is slapped against a tree on its flats hard. No damage was noticed.
The knife was sharpened so that it could shave hair from my arms readily. There was a consistent burr on the edge of the khukuri. Sharpening took about 15 minutes with the course Spyderco stone. A straight section starts at the beginning of the forward curve and runs for 5.5. The stone slides over the straight section easier than near the tip. The straight is harder than the tip. The stone grabs much more near the tip. Unfortunately, the belly (where the sweet spot is located) is included in the softer section.
Chopping Yard Waste
The FWCK was used to chop up some branches that I wanted to burn in a 55-gallon drum. The FWCK was stabbed into the drum to produce air holes. The tip and edge was undamaged by this. A Mission MPK (A2) was also used to poke holes into the drum and was also undamaged. I tried chopping on the sides of the drum to produce larger holes with the FWCK. I could not chop through the drum but put large dents into the drum. The knife was very slightly rolled in four spots from chopping. The most severe damage was half circle peens that are 0.25 mm in radius. These are barely visible and were steeled out with the chakma from an 18 AK. Steel and heat treat must be pretty decent in the FWCK.
I used a tree stump as a chopping board to assist in chop the branches into smaller sizes. I found I could not use the straight section. As the tip would impact against the stump before this section could contact whatever I was chopping. Unfortunately, the straight seems to be the hardest section of the FWCK. I then used the belly, which starts after the straight and ends about 1 from the tip, to chop with. This must be the sweet spot. The results were much better and I had no problems breaking through 4 diameter branches. Chopping completely through them would take many more chops. I found the sweet spot to be too small and located too close to the tip. The sweet spot in the 2 belly. I used my 18 Ang Khola for a short time to compare its performance to that of the FWCK. I could use the straight section and the much larger belly of the Ang Khola as effectively as the belly of the FWCK. After doing this for about 7 hours, the 6 years of branch accumulation was burnt up. The tip was quite dull.
Trail Clearing
The following day, I used the FWCK, 18 Ang Khola, 17.5 WWII, and 22 Sirupati to assist in opening 100 m of lane. Most of the trees that had to be chopped down or had limbs removed are 4-6 diameter cedar.
The cedar trees were brought down by first chopping a V into one side so that the tree could be pulled over. This required between 6-12 chops. After each chop the khukuri was twisted hard to remove as much wood as possible. I was surprised with the amount of variation in the number of hits required for similar sized trees. Once the tree was pulled over the connecting piece was chopped through using the stump as a chopping block. This usually required only 1-2 chops. The whole process takes under 5 minutes. The cedar was found to over 30 years.
When things worked well for the FWCK it gave similar performance as the 18 AK and 22 Sirupati. Cedar is very soft and it was more productive to chop with the large straight section rather than the small sweet spot. The tip would often strike or become entangle in nearby branches as I was using the straight. While the belly did penetrate deeper it would not remove as much wood as the straight. The WWII would sometime require only a couple more chops.
The FWCK did not remove limbs as well as the other khukuris. I struck the limb as close to the tree as possible for optimum results. In order to perform as well as the other khukuris, the sweet spot must be used. I could easily employ the larger sweet spots of the other khukuris. My aim was not good enough to consistently hit with the sweet spot with the FWCK. Also, the belly dulled faster than the straight of the other khukuris.
Larger and Slightly Harder Trees
I used the FW and 18 Ang Khola to bring down a 7 diameter dead spruce tree. The spruce is definitely harder than the cedar. The FW was not used for very long. It was mildly painful when the sweet spot was employed. There was too much shock transmitted to my hands. The 18 Ang Khola ended up doing most of the work. The 18" Ang Khola would still shave the odd hair after chopping down the tree.
Prying
The FWCK was used to pry loose two trees that got caught on the remaining stump and overhead branches. To move the trees the khukuri was used as a lever. The fulcrum was located about 5 from the tip and 0.25 of the tip was underneath the tree. Pulling on the handle with 60% of my 180-lb clothed weight freed the trees. The FWCK deflected very little, about 3 degree. This does not mean much since the trees were supported elsewhere but they were well over 200 lb.
Blade Decorations and Maintenance
The engravings on the blade filled with mashed wood. This is difficult to field clean. In order to remove all the wood trapped in the decorations I had to wash the blade with hot soap and water.
**** The decorations on the chakma must go! The sides of the chakma do not work with the hatching and circles. I know most people do not use these and the edge can still be used, but they should be completely functional.
Will
