G-10

H

Hugh Buchanan

Joined
Aug 24, 2017
Messages
38
I'm requesting tips about working G-10:

  • What kinds of abrasives should be used?
  • Will it take a high polish or does it have a texture under the surface shine of the purchased blanks?
  • How can it be finished (as wood would be finished)? Can it be oiled?
  • Is it as strong as micarta or is it brittle? Is it likely to split when being cut or drilled?
  • Will it adhere to epoxy as well as other materials do?
  • What are the advantages/disadvantages when compared to other materials, like micarta?
  • In general, what should I know about it?
Many thanks,
Hugh
 
The first question you need to ask is, "Do I have the equipment to work G-10?"

G-10 is a phenolic laminate of fiberglass. It dulls sawblades, and pretty much requires power grinding/sanding. The dust is very harmful to your lungs, as well as it can make you itch. You need proper breathing protection and very good cleanup/vacuuming after grinding it. You need to work G-10 in a place where the dust won't spread all over the shop. It sticks to everything by static electricity.

The answers to your questions are:
Good quality abrasive. Zirconia belts for rough grinding and SC for fine. Use wet sanding and SC abrasives for hand sanding.
It will polish to a shine, but the fabric of the glass cloth will show through the shine. The pattern is what people like about it.
G-10 needs no finish or oil . You sand it to the final finish. A final light buffing ( buffing wheel) will make it shine.
It is stronger than Micarta.
Epoxy bonds to G-10 very well.
G-10 is less safe to use and pretty much comes in one type. It does come in many colors. It is waterproof.
Micarta comes in many types of laminated material ( paper, linen, canvas, burlap, wood,)
You need to know all the safety concerns and if you are at a level where it is a good choice. I have lots of equipment and can work any material I want … and I rarely use G-10.
 
Thanks for the information, Stacy. It looks like I'm going to stay away from it. I just bought an Origin 2x72 grinder and it sends dust all over the shop.
 
G10 has its place, I use it alot in 3 pc frame handles
pretty much the majority of Emerson folders have G10 scales

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Hugh Buchanan said:
I'm requesting tips about working G-10:

  • What kinds of abrasives should be used?
  • Will it take a high polish or does it have a texture under the surface shine of the purchased blanks?
  • How can it be finished (as wood would be finished)? Can it be oiled?
  • Is it as strong as micarta or is it brittle? Is it likely to split when being cut or drilled?
  • Will it adhere to epoxy as well as other materials do?
  • What are the advantages/disadvantages when compared to other materials, like micarta?
  • In general, what should I know about it?
Many thanks,
Hugh
Click to expand...
G10 is great for handles , too many choices of different G10 . Why you don t make one knife ? That way you will know whether you want it or not ? It is easy to work with G10 ...DUST............dust is dust no escape from that , get used to it now when you have grinder :D
 
everything you use for handle material will send dust all over the shop when shaping it :) g10 seems to be less dense than micarta, it seems to grind away faster in my shop. wood can possibly warp down the road, but micarta and g10 will not. i think they are the best handle materials.
 
It's heavier (well, has higher density) than micarta, if that's a concern.
Some prefer micarta and think it feels better/warmer in the hand. I like g10. Just finishing up a small fixed EDC with g10 scales and liners right now.
 
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