G10 Marksman

MT_Pokt

MT_Pokt

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This comes from my input on the "Perfect Marksman" thread. And I'm still waiting paitently for those to hit the street, by the way.

After staring at the scales I made with my 3D printer for what seems like a lifetime, I decided to do something about it.

This is what I started with; a vision:




Well... I found a couple of 3x3 slabs that I picked up for something else:



I had a few hours to kill this morning and got busy with the dremel, orbital sander, drill press, mask, HEPA vacuum, and my impatience.

I traced the scales and got them cut out.


Before any embellishing, I wanted to make sure all of the parts fit like they're supposed to.





I wasn't planning on a "how to" post so I didn't take too many photos of the work during. But here she is with her new scales.







I'm not quite done yet though. I have to get home to my shop where I need to countersink the washer and bearings, and pivot bolt heads.

Who doesn't like multi-color G10?

Once she's all done I'll report on blade centering and operation.
 
That looks fantastic! I'm very, very excited about the G10 scales on the upcoming run. Can't wait to get it in hand.
 
I wrapped her up this morning.

I think I would do it again. Being my first attempt, I'm pretty happy about how it turned out.

Centering, function, and everything else is as good as I remember it being from Buck.

I don't use it very hard anyway so it should hold up well, but I'll carry and use it every day and report back if there are any failures.

I like G10, but this is a design that might need a liner. Time will tell...









I think I'm going to leave the G10 smooth for now. If I feel like I need more traction, I'll hit it with a wire wheel to give it some grip.
 
I think it feels lighter. It might have more to do with the softer contours than the material weight though. I'll have to weigh it and see if someone can compare to the stock one.
 
Super cool coloring, what kind of material did you use for the 3D printed handle? My experience with printing mediums haven't been very encouraging from a durability standpoint. I've yet to buy my own 3D printer for that reason, and that of a financial consideration... Dang expensive.
 
Y'shua said:
Super cool coloring, what kind of material did you use for the 3D printed handle? My experience with printing mediums haven't been very encouraging from a durability standpoint. I've yet to buy my own 3D printer for that reason, and that of a financial consideration... Dang expensive.
Click to expand...

I tried PLA and PVC, but this is actually ABS. I printed it at a pretty low density which is why you can see the layers. When I print things at 100% density at a slower rate, you can hardly tell they aren't molded or extruded.

I mainly use the printer for concept profiles that will be extruded or molded for regular production. It's nice to be able to print a part to prove a concept prior to spending thousands of dollars on the die or mold. The machine has paid for itself 10x already.

I've used it to print other odds and ends too. Designing and printing those concept scales for the marksman was fun.
 
FWIW My postage scale says is 4oz (it rounds though). Anyone know the stock weight of an 830?
 
I wouldn't think you'll need a liner when using G10. It's strong but heavy. You had access to equipment and it turned out handsome. DM
 
Thanks Oregon, I'll take the little bit of weight savings!

I still need to remove a little bit of the material at the lock to be able to get to it easier with my thumb and index finger. I'm also going to sand it down where the lock meets the frame to get a little deeper engagement on the strap (lock).

Thanks for the compliment Dave!

There's only one point where I'm concerned about the G10. The pin in the very front above the pivot takes all of the abuse from flipping the blade open. That particular pin stops the blade travel both opening and closing. Closing isn't an issue, but this pin absorbs all of the inertia from flipping the blade open. I might worry that the hole might become oblonged and cause the blade to potentially overtravel when opening and undertravel when closing.

If that pin is in a position where it undertravels when opening, the blade tip could hit the rear spacer. If it overtravels when opening, the blade notches may not engage the lock strap when closed, or open.

That pin is crucial for the operation and needs to be virtually indestructible.

(SK & Buck; did you read that?)

Now... I don't know a whole lot about G10, but if I can shape it with a sander, I expect fatigue in the situation I described could be a concern. I'll leave it to the pros though and trust whatever they put on the market.

I like the look and feel of the handle so much that I may make another in blue/grey/black 3x3 if I can find time to fool with it.
 
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