G10 Tyrades. anybody redo their blades?

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loki993

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Feb 28, 2009
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I remember when there was first talk about the G10 tyrades and how the blades were going to be all one color. There was some talk that you could re-etch the blade to bring out the different colors in the steels with some kind of acid, maybe even vinegar. Has anybody tried it yet and if so how does it look?? got pics?thanks.
 
I'm going to when I get mine.

I did something similar to a JYDIICB. I hand-rubbed the blade to a uniform satin finish and then etched it in FeCl. The result was good, but the FeCl slightly etched the Sandvik. Next time I might mask off the stainless steel, so it retains its finish. The etching process only takes a few seconds. It's better to do a quick dip, rinse of the residue and do another dip.

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That is seriously nice work. Do you remove the old handles and replace them or do you just put the wood on top of the current handles?
 
Phillip Dobson said:
I'm going to when I get mine.

I did something similar to a JYDIICB. I hand-rubbed the blade to a uniform satin finish and then etched it in FeCl. The result was good, but the FeCl slightly etched the Sandvik. Next time I might mask off the stainless steel, so it retains its finish. The etching process only takes a few seconds. It's better to do a quick dip, rinse of the residue and do another dip.
Click to expand...

That looks fantastic.... what's the difference between the chemical you used and "cold blue" used on guns?
 
loki993 said:
That is seriously nice work. Do you remove the old handles and replace them or do you just put the wood on top of the current handles?
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Those are replacement handle slabs (some call them scales). There are metal liners beneath them.
 
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JPD1998 said:
That looks fantastic.... what's the difference between the chemical you used and "cold blue" used on guns?
Click to expand...

I'm not exactly sure what the bluing does. The FeCl creates an iron oxide layer. Different alloys oxidize faster than others (same as etching damascus).

Loki: I just replaced the G10 slabs with wood (in this case Jarrah). It can be done with the Tyrade, too. The torsion bar makes things a bit more challenging, though.
 
That is correct. Full disassembly is required (though I tend to take my knives apart anyway). I use the original G10 scales as a template. You would also want to remove the blade to attempt any etching.
 
I acid etch mine with chlorine bleach and vinegar. Do this outside unless death by chlorine gas sounds like a good time.
 
I re-profiled my edge. It’s a thick blade but D2 can get much thinner and stay sharp. It takes time but worth it. First Kershaw ever that was not out of this world sharp. It was sharp. Sharp enough for most company’s but not Kershaw sharp. I’ll leave the other one as is.

As far as the look of the blade. I’m happy with it as is.
 
Phillip Dobson said:
That is correct. Full disassembly is required (though I tend to take my knives apart anyway). I use the original G10 scales as a template. You would also want to remove the blade to attempt any etching.
Click to expand...

thanks, again great work. If you dont mind what did you use to rub the blade to get that finish on the blade? Just fine sandpaper? it does have a bit of a shine to it though doesnt it?
 
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