G10 vs Titanium Scales

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EdgeDownunder

Joined
Oct 12, 2024
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Apologies if this discussion has been covered on another post, but was hoping to get some advice on this topic

I’m currently looking at a folder which has G10 only scale on show side (no reinforcing steel/metal liner), and titanium only on the lock side, with a blade which has blade stops that butt up against both scales when open.

My question is, does anyone have any concerns or experience with folders with this configuration, with regards to only G10 on one side? Is this considered strong/tough enough in its own, or would you expect the G10 not to be a strong enough material on its own with a blade stop against it?

Any other folders I have with similar configuration (G10 or carbon fibre), also have a reinforcing steel or titanium liner on the same side, I’ve never had one with only G10 or only carbon fibre and blade stops

Any advice here would be appreciated
 
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Welcome to BF !

Quite a few knives like this, for example among my knives, ZT0452 and Spyderco Civilian.

Even though I have a couple, I usually avoid them, but that might be my OCD - never had one break.

Also, the Civilian is kind of a "single-use" knife, so it depends on what you want the knife for, of course.
 
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EdgeDownunder said:
I’m currently looking at a folder which has G10 only scale on show side (no reinforcing steel/metal liner), and titanium only on the lock side, with a blade which has blade stops that butt up against both scales when open.

My question is, does anyone have any concerns or experience with folders with this configuration, with regards to only G10 on one side? Is this considered strong/tough enough in its own, or would you expect the G10 not to be a strong enough material on its own with a blade stop against it?
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I own a lot of ZTs & Spydies set up like this & haven't had any problems with any of them.
 
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G-10 is much much stronger than it would seem, I would have no worries using a knife constructed like that hard. The spyderco Military (my old 440v model) uses very thin G-10 on the show side, and a tiny nested liner for the lock on the pile side, the slabs aren’t thick in the least, yet it’s rock solid after years and years of being used hard, I don’t think I could break it without tools, the blade would snap before the g-10 I’m pretty sure, still locks up perfectly and no flex or cracks.
 
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Many thanks all for the advice on your experiences, very much appreciated. My concern was more on the contact point between the blade stop (kind of like thumb studs), and the G10 scale. I would have thought that G10 may not be a good material against the steel stop. Is G10 prone to chipping or considered tough enough on its own for the purpose of securing a blade that way? The setup is same as on a ZT0562CF & ZT0350, only without the added steel liners both of these have on their CF & G10 scales, if that makes sense
 
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It's not prone to chipping or cracking and can be machined to close tolerances.

The weakest point of a folder is the blade itself.

If you ever put enough strain on the g-10 scale and stop pin to cause catastrophic damage, you will likely break the blade first and you are doing something far beyond abuse.
 
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Really wasn’t expecting answers this late in your day, but really do appreciate the feedback. Your responses have put my mind at ease and helped with my dilemma/decision.

Thanks again all
 
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J. Doyle said:
It's not prone to chipping or cracking and can be machined to close tolerances.

The weakest point of a folder is the blade itself.

If you ever put enough strain on the g-10 scale and stop pin to cause catastrophic damage, you will likely break the blade first and you are doing something far beyond abuse.
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Quite right.
 
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No concerns whatsoever. G10 is plenty tough. Don’t worry about where the stop hits it. It won’t damage it in the slightest, or change it at all.

If you’re on the fence and like a design like this, go for it. You’ll be well satisfied.
 
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Thanks Dadpool & AntDog. I am a big fan of folders with external blade stops (if that’s the right term), just had the G10 concern mentioned. Didn’t like the idea of steel hitting just G10 only.

All responses to my query have been very helpful from everyone, made this decision much easier for me, and I’m committing.

Also very expedient way to get to a decision with so much advice provided so quickly.

Very much appreciated all.
 
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I remember having a similar concern while I was just starting out in the hobby. Watched a Cold Steel Recon 1 torture test from some russian dude. The knife is just two slabs of G 10, no liners no nothing. After beating the absolute snot out of it, including pounding it through a several mm sheet of metal using a hammer he hammered it into a tree and used it as a step. The handle was fine, the lock held up, but the blade snapped in the middle. I've had a Recon 1 with me since, I always take it with me on camping trips as a backup or to lend to friends because I know the thing is bomb proof and there's nothing they can do to it that I can't fix in 10 minutes on the benchstone.
 
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Never had an issue with g10 and stop pins developing play on liner locks/frame locks. The newer Frn/plastic/g10 light weight crossbar/button lock knives with partial liners seem to loosen up from flex. Kind of like the material is breaking in the screws need to be snugged after 5-10 days of use. I have had this happen on my last few purchases of budget knives.

Have only ever had issues with titanium knife with g10 and that is my pos lionsteel TRE. The G10 has to much milling and kind of twists with the pivot tension. Works fantastic for 3-4 flips then feels like a gas station knife.
 
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J. Doyle said:
Not always.

Personally, I'm more comfortable with just PB bronze on g-10. Neither will significantly wear the other.

Adding steel in there would be worse, IMO.
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Hey mate,

That digresses from topic but brings up another subject of interest for me. I have quite a few folders with bearings all with smooth action, but notice this seems to be used on what I would say are “lighter” folders (understand this is a bit subjective). Seems heavier built folders (at least the ones I’ve come across), tend to use PB washers in my experience. Do you think PB washers is the stronger setup perhaps, why generally used more on overbuilt/heavier folders?
 
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EdgeDownunder said:
Hey mate,

That digresses from topic but brings up another subject of interest for me. I have quite a few folders with bearings all with smooth action, but notice this seems to be used on what I would say are “lighter” folders (understand this is a bit subjective). Seems heavier built folders (at least the ones I’ve come across), tend to use PB washers in my experience. Do you think PB washers is the stronger setup perhaps, why generally used more on overbuilt/heavier folders?
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I have found that larger and heavier blades simply benefit less from bearings than smaller and medium sized blades. There seems to be a point of diminishing returns where it just makes sense to use PB washers instead.
 
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