Game processing knife recommendations

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Wrench77

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Jan 13, 2014
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Hey guys I need a little help if possible. I've been using a Havalon knife for the last few years as my game processing knife but I've decided I want to try a fixed blade knife this year. I'm a backpack hunter so the weight of the knife is a concern, so I guess this a two part question. What Fiddleback model would you recommend for game processing and if possible could you add what that model weighs? (I understand there are a lot of variables blade thickness, handle material, but it will give me an idea) Hopefully that makes sense, thanks in advance for your help.
 
What kind of game? Also, what do you mean by processing? Are we talking filed dressing or full on butchering?
 
Elk and deer mainly. I usually have a fairly long pack out so I bone out the meat, then pack it back to the truck.
 
As the others have mentioned, we need a little more detail in order to help you. Size of game - moose or sitka deer, for example and gutting/quartering or making steaks?
 
I think any model would do an admirable job for you...but The KPH seems solely intended for game processing. The bourbon street skinner has a similar "game curve" on it. I'd go 5/32nd if Elk is in the mix, just to ensure you can work the leg joints.
 
Over the years I've used a few different Fiddlebacks for deer.

A hunter -



Two different Bushfingers -



(Sorry, no other pics of this one in use except venison dishes)


And a scandi Terrassaur -






They all were adequate but the Hunter seemed overkill for me, the Terrassaur had just enough belly to skin well, and the bushfinger's blade is almost too wide to really excel in removing back straps. Out of the three I've tried, I like the Bushfinger. Just my honest opinion.

However, I'd LOVE to get my hands on a recluse. That design would be PERFECT for my use as a compact yet capable hunting blade. It's got enough belly to be a good skinner and slicer but the blade isn't so wide that you can't get in for more detailed work or for reaching things like the back straps well.
 
schmittie said:
Over the years I've used a few different Fiddlebacks for deer.

A hunter -



Two different Bushfingers -



(Sorry, no other pics of this one in use except venison dishes)


And a scandi Terrassaur -






They all were adequate but the Hunter seemed overkill for me, the Terrassaur had just enough belly to skin well, and the bushfinger's blade is almost too wide to really excel in removing back straps. Out of the three I've tried, I like the Bushfinger. Just my honest opinion.

However, I'd LOVE to get my hands on a recluse. That design would be PERFECT for my use as a compact yet capable hunting blade. It's got enough belly to be a good skinner and slicer but the blade isn't so wide that you can't get in for more detailed work or for reaching things like the back straps well.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply, I've been leaning towards the recluse based on the size and belly. The hardest part is trying to find one with 1/8" tapered tang and burlap handles. According to Andy this would be the lightest configuration.
 
Do not underestimate the bushcrafter. I've been using a hunter for as my main gaming knife, but I integrated the BC last season cuz I loved the belly on it. It's a seriously stout worker. Dis joints and quarters easily. Not as pointy as the hunter or a Bushfinger but still pierces well with some force.
 
Thanks for your post Schmittie! There is an overwhelming sense out there that scandi ground blades do not slice, skin, whatever very well. There is also a common myth that scandi's "roll" their edges easily. However, I have never met anyone who had a scandi "roll" on them, or owned a scandi that failed in slicing/skinning, whatever. I'm sure that there are instances, but they are certainly not the rule imo. Just an old wives tale.

Now that I'm off my soap box: I vote for the nessie. That would process an elk or deer just fine!
 
Top choices in my opinion are recluse, kph, nessmuk, or my badger. All within reasonable size with easy manipulation for the various cuts needed. Recluse or Badger would be the lightest, especially with a tapered tang and possibly carbon fiber scales.
 
velosa said:
Thanks for your post Schmittie! There is an overwhelming sense out there that scandi ground blades do not slice, skin, whatever very well. There is also a common myth that scandi's "roll" their edges easily. However, I have never met anyone who had a scandi "roll" on them, or owned a scandi that failed in slicing/skinning, whatever. I'm sure that there are instances, but they are certainly not the rule imo. Just an old wives tale.

Now that I'm off my soap box: I vote for the nessie. That would process an elk or deer just fine!
Click to expand...


Lol!

I hear ya dude. Lots of people criticize the scandi grind and in reality, few have used it for very long. I mean seriously, what do the hunters in Scandinavia use?!?
 
velosa said:
Thanks for your post Schmittie! There is an overwhelming sense out there that scandi ground blades do not slice, skin, whatever very well. There is also a common myth that scandi's "roll" their edges easily. However, I have never met anyone who had a scandi "roll" on them, or owned a scandi that failed in slicing/skinning, whatever. I'm sure that there are instances, but they are certainly not the rule imo. Just an old wives tale.

Now that I'm off my soap box: I vote for the nessie. That would process an elk or deer just fine!
Click to expand...

Most users of Moras have rolled them at one time or another. They are relatively thin blades designed for cutting and the edge is pretty thin on most of them. Game processing isn't hard on a blade (unless beating it through bone) so a scandi would do fine. The scandi handicap is really when cutting harder food like carrots or similar items. Imho it doesn't really have any advantages over a thin flat, convex or hollow ground ground blade with a similar edge strength for game processing.

Here in Norway hunters use whatever they have at hand (sometimes a scandi) for field processing, but most use flat ground knives for skinning and meat processing when the animal is brought back to the farm in one piece. When hunting in difficult terrain or far into the mountains the animal will be processed and packed in the field and carried out in a back pack (or on a horse)

A Recluse or Ladyfinger would work fine. 1/8" would be good and light.
 
Nessmuk and KPH are the two I would use. Been using a scandi ground Nessmuck for years with great success on feral pigs and white tail deer.
 
NoFair said:
Most users of Moras have rolled them at one time or another.
Click to expand...

Hi No Fair, thanks for the response, but these are the kind of comments that perpetuate these old wives tales imo. I mean have MOST Mora users rolled their edges??? Even with Moras I find that very hard to believe. Mora would cease to be in business anymore if the majority of their customers were doing this.

However, we do agree on one thing, a Mora and a Fiddleback are really not comparable. ;)
 
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Thanks for all the responses guys. I'm going to go with the recluse. The hard part is going to be finding one with the configuration I need. Time to start the search.
 
velosa said:
Hi No Fair, thanks for the response, but these are the kind of comments that perpetuate these old wives tales imo. I mean have MOST Mora users rolled their edges??? Even with Moras I find that very hard to believe. Mora would cease to be in business anymore if the majority of their customers were doing this.

However, we do agree on one thing, a Mora and a Fiddleback are really not comparable. ;)
Click to expand...

A slightly rolled edge is easy to fix. Moras are slightly softer (in most cases) than FFs and are designed to roll instead of chipping which is much worse for most users. They are considered more or less expendable here and building firms buy them by the bucket. They are also abused without other issues than slightly rolled edges. If the edges were fatter performance would be much lower for most uses.

Most kids here grow up abusing Moras so most of us have rolled the edges and resharpened them afterwards..
 
The Bushfinger, Bushcrafter, KPH, Nessmuk, and recluse are the ones that I'd be looking at.

Get something with a hidden or Tapered tang. They are lighter then their fully exposed tang counter parts.
 
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