Garage Sale Axe Find/ Refurb

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Feb 11, 2016
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81
Good morning,

I'm currently on a kick to find and acquire camping gear for the future when my kids (1.5/ 3.5 years old) are old enough to do hike in camping trips. My thoughts are that if I can acquire the gear now it will allow me to slowly introduce my kids to the necessary camping skills needed. Also slowly acquiring gear will be easier on the pocket book. This led me to looking at different small/ medium size axes for backpacking and after looking at the prices I thought why not find a few old axes to give a second life too.

I'm curious to know what to look for in a second hand axe (grind, size, steel quality etc.) and would appreciate everyone's advice. I would also love to see what others have found and fixed up (pics heavily appreciated).

Thanks,
W.M.

P.S. I looked to see if a post like this has already been done but couldn't find one. If anyone knows of one and could post the link I would also appreciate that.
 
Last edited:
Some tips on "What to look for" were posted earlier:

Look for axes without excessive wear at the toe - the upper point of the bit. The toe should be longer than the heel. Look for a high centerline - most of the older axes had it - the newer ones don't. Look for stamps even if they aren't legible under the rust. When you clean 'em up it will show better.

Lastly, stay the hell out of my neighborhood! :D
 
It's good that you have time to start scouting around for gear. Lots of young families get into the camping routine for a couple of years while their kids are young and then outgrow/abandon the practice. You'll be impressed with the amount of gently-used outdoor stuff you can gather up on-the-cheap at garage sales. Sure much of it will be 10-15 years old by that time but who cares.
 
Some tips on "What to look for" were posted earlier:

Thanks, Steve. Don't need to write it out again.

But I'll add a few things. 'Hike in' camping with kids adds a whole new dimension to things. You really have to go light because you'll need to carry things that motivate them (treats) and keep them interested in the trip (games & bushcraft projects). For sure don't carry anything heavier than a Fiskars X7. I'd consider going without any axe/hatchet. Even choose a lightweight knife. You don't need anything bigger or heavier than a Mora companion - available from Benjamin at Baryonyx Knives - a forum member here and a person of the highest character.
http://www.baryonyxknife.com/moraofsweden.html

Is your wife hiking, too? And can she carry a decent weight pack? That would be a big help. Store-bought bottled water bottles make great lightweight canteens and if one of them happens to carry 16 or 20 oz. of bourbon or brandy it will make Mom & Dad happy late at night.

Kids can do short hikes starting at age 5 or 6 (youngest child).

In the mean time get them used to car camping. Vintage Coleman stuff is available cheap at yard sales and estate sales and can really make camping more comfortable.
 
If you can find a riggers axe which is hatchet with a framing hammer on it ( I would personally hang it on a custom 20" curved handle if it needed a new one ) it would be a great option as they only weigh 28oz , usually have about an 18" handle and incorporate an actual hammer which can be to pound on anything without worry.
A Vaughan sub zero hatchet for 20$ would also be a great option after a day of work.
The heads are only 8oz and are a perfectly capable tool for when you don't think you need an axe
( you never know when you may need an axe )
You'd be surprised how much a knife can do with some ingenuity, but a hatchet just makes things much easier and justifies their weight.
you'd be surprised how capable the little Vaughan sub zero is.
 
Thanks, Steve. Don't need to write it out again.

But I'll add a few things. 'Hike in' camping with kids adds a whole new dimension to things. You really have to go light because you'll need to carry things that motivate them (treats) and keep them interested in the trip (games & bushcraft projects). For sure don't carry anything heavier than a Fiskars X7. I'd consider going without any axe/hatchet. Even choose a lightweight knife. You don't need anything bigger or heavier than a Mora companion - available from Benjamin at Baryonyx Knives - a forum member here and a person of the highest character.
http://www.baryonyxknife.com/moraofsweden.html

Is your wife hiking, too? And can she carry a decent weight pack? That would be a big help. Store-bought bottled water bottles make great lightweight canteens and if one of them happens to carry 16 or 20 oz. of bourbon or brandy it will make Mom & Dad happy late at night.

Kids can do short hikes starting at age 5 or 6 (youngest child).

In the mean time get them used to car camping. Vintage Coleman stuff is available cheap at yard sales and estate sales and can really make camping more comfortable.

Thanks to everyone for their replies. I appreciate the tips and advice. We currently do short hikes and outdoor outings with the kids and they love it. The main plan is to incorporate lots of good learning opportunities on these excursions so when they're old enough we can start doing the hike in camping trips. After we conquer hike in camping maybe we'll try canoe camping. My wife and I do have a nice set of deuter backpacks that work well for outings. We also have a M.E.C. kid carrier that we want to use this summer.

I currently carry the Kabar Becker BK4 when I'm in the woods. That's why I'm looking for an axe not a hatchet.

I also like the idea of used getting used blades so I can practice my sharpening skills. I'm currently afraid to put stone to the BK4 (luckily it holds a nice edge). It will also mean more to use and pass along tools I've refurbished as opposed to ones I've bought.



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It sounds like you're looking for a boy's axe or cruiser axe. They usually have a 2 or 2 1/2 pound head on a handle about 28" long. They can do an astonishingly greater amount of real work than a big hatchet (in fact, some makers would mount these same heads on 18" hatchet handles) for almost no extra weight.

They don't make 'em like they used to. So just about any axe you come across that was made before, say, 1970, is gonna be a well made high quality working tool. If it has a nice patina (not painted or completely covered in rust), then if you turn it in the light, you should also be able to make out a faint line or different color where the good steel bit was forge welded onto the mild steel body/eye piece. If you see this, it's almost guaranteed to be a high quality piece (unless it was abused, went through a fire, etc.) The only real question is how much it's been abused or worn down. Make sure the edge hasn't been ground on so much that it's gotten up into the thicker steel, & does not have great big nicks or chips. Take a look around this forum for pictures of old axes in good condition (or even old advertisements) so you understand how they're supposed to be shaped. This will really help you recognize when you come across one with too much wear at the toe or heel. A bit of mushrooming on the poll can be ground/filed off, but if you see a lot of damage there, you better also check to see if the eye has been bent out of shape.

But when it comes time to introduce the kids to using tools like these for themselves, I second Hickory n Steel's suggestion of the Vaughn mini "sounding" or pocket axe. Though small, they are real tools, and make quick work of sticks & limbs. My 11 year old daughter has pretty much claimed mine for herself (it's an older version stamped with the Craftsman brand). They are somewhat rare & nice older ones bring lots on ebay, but if you come across one cheap at a yard sale or thrift store, man, you better snap it up without hesitating. You'll thank us later.
Lots of pictures & info about 'em in this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1325146-The-Mini-Hatchet
 
It sounds like you're looking for a boy's axe or cruiser axe. They usually have a 2 or 2 1/2 pound head on a handle about 28" long. They can do an astonishingly greater amount of real work than a big hatchet (in fact, some makers would mount these same heads on 18" hatchet handles) for almost no extra weight.

They don't make 'em like they used to. So just about any axe you come across that was made before, say, 1970, is gonna be a well made high quality working tool. If it has a nice patina (not painted or completely covered in rust), then if you turn it in the light, you should also be able to make out a faint line or different color where the good steel bit was forge welded onto the mild steel body/eye piece. If you see this, it's almost guaranteed to be a high quality piece (unless it was abused, went through a fire, etc.) The only real question is how much it's been abused or worn down. Make sure the edge hasn't been ground on so much that it's gotten up into the thicker steel, & does not have great big nicks or chips. Take a look around this forum for pictures of old axes in good condition (or even old advertisements) so you understand how they're supposed to be shaped. This will really help you recognize when you come across one with too much wear at the toe or heel. A bit of mushrooming on the poll can be ground/filed off, but if you see a lot of damage there, you better also check to see if the eye has been bent out of shape.

But when it comes time to introduce the kids to using tools like these for themselves, I second Hickory n Steel's suggestion of the Vaughn mini "sounding" or pocket axe. Though small, they are real tools, and make quick work of sticks & limbs. My 11 year old daughter has pretty much claimed mine for herself (it's an older version stamped with the Craftsman brand). They are somewhat rare & nice older ones bring lots on ebay, but if you come across one cheap at a yard sale or thrift store, man, you better snap it up without hesitating. You'll thank us later.
Lots of pictures & info about 'em in this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1325146-The-Mini-Hatchet
That was a lot of great info. I can't wait to go garage sale hunting to see what I find.

Thanks,
W.M.

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