GAREOSOL gloss opinions

jaegar

jaegar

Joined
Nov 5, 2004
Messages
280
I am working on a lockback folder kit, and I'm planning on using cocobola scales. I'll need to seal it, so I'm looking around at my options. TKS sells Gareosol and says it's a sealer.
1qie08

Have any of you used this stuff? Will it work for the application I'm planning? The other idea was to used birchwood-casey gunstock sealer and filler:
1qiec1

What do yall think of this? Which would be better for a folder?
Thanks for the help,
~Brian
 
I'm probably not the person to ask as I tend to shun wood that is not impregnated with plastic.

My methouds are liberal coats of Watco Danish oil, let the wood soak up all it'll take and then rub with a soft cloth.

Cocobola realy doesnt' need any extra finish, it's oily and stabil on it's on and realy all that's needed is a coat of wax, like Johnson's paste wax.
 
I agree with Will cocobolo does not require sealing it has enough natural oils to polish to a high finish on it's own.
 
OK, I was wondering because the Texas Knifemakers Supply catalogue says to use sealer on it. But you guys know more than me, so I probably won't seal it. It's not likely to get much water or sun on it since it's a lockback, and the person I'm giving it to probably won't use it a bunch, although it will be an EDC.
Thanks
~Brian
 
I take my cocobolo to 400 grit. Coat it with teak oil from Home Depot. 0000 steel whool it a little and do a few more coats of oil. Wipe it down and thats it. Dont put that plastic in there man :D
 
Hi Brian

Dissenting opinion here (though not strongly) Unsealed cocbolo will likely stain clothing. Try rubbing it with a white paper towel or shop cloth. I'll be surprised if it doesn't bleed an orange or brown colour. Also, much cocobolo has a coarse grain structure. I believe the sealer you are looking at is a substitute for the old PLAID product called "Fix-it". If so, it should do a great job of filling those coarse grain void spots.
 
Yeah, it takes the place of Fix it.
Thanks, Mr. Goode, do you find your handles to 'bleed' after applying that oil?
The other thread on this topic says that since cocobola is so oily already, it might not absorb the oil. Have you found that to be the case?
Yeah, I didn't really want to put Gareosol on them, but I didn't think they would be good without something. For now, I think I'll go for that Teak oil idea...but do you have to keep oiling it throughout the life of the knife? It's a folder, and I don't the the person wants to have to do that kind of maintenence.
Thanks!
~Brian
 
well, I just did the paper towel thing on a knife handle thats I made about 6 months agao. I carry it almost daily and have never noticed the wood bleeding. I can tell that the teak oil soaks in some but nothing like an open grain non oily wood. I think you will be fine using oil only. I wouldnt puty the pastic clear stuff on a nice piece of wood. Just doesnt belong there IMHO but I have used it in furniture aplications.
 
Hi, I have yet to make my first knife, but I have been reading for a while.
A lot of people with sail boats use Cetol by Sikkens on teak as a treatment. I beleive you can get it with no stain. It is made for oily woods. It also just sort of wears away, future treatments are just wipe on wipe off, it is not a varnish product. Rather pricey, but a little goes a long way. I don't know if it will work on a knife.
 
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