gas forge question

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Feb 6, 2001
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I just got done re-lining my venturi gas forge (thanks Jerry!) but, while replacing the burners, I was wondering what is best as far as how far in the tip of the flame comes into the forge. I've now got 3" of kaowool with the ITC coating. How much flame should I see past the koawool for the best heat?
 
J. The tips should just be even with the Inswool. I was looking at the pic again that you left here. It is probably more trouble than it is worth to convert it. The next time you come down we can build one in about 3 to 4 hours.
Jerry: The next time you come over could you please bring the wool. I want to reline my welding forge.
 
George, does the blower need to be past the gas valves? I was thinking of pulling out the two venturi parts and putting 3 t-connecters, sort of making an H between the valves and the burners and runnung the blower in through the center of the cross peice of the H.
 
J. You would have to drill and tap 1/4" npt into both of the burner tubes around half way up from your forge body. I would run quick connects to a tee then a needle valve and then a shutoff. If you want to run one burner at a time, you would need a shutoff between the tee and burner tubes. For the blower I can see two elbows, one tee and three nipples and a coupling if you want to run a blower like mine. I can draw it up if I lost you????
 
Hey George, those venturi ports are threaded. Couldn't I just run pipes into those with two elbows and a T connecter for the blower? I'm not too concerned about running one burner at a time as this is only going to be for damascus welding. I've got another two burner forge for the shaping blades and I can run one of those solo for small stuff.
 
J. That looks like it would work. You may want to install a needle valve between the regulator and the T for better control. I am surprize that the way that burners are with the ball valves at the end that they don't cook when you shut it down.
See drawing
 
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