- Joined
- Nov 29, 2006
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- 1,097
Hi guys, What do you use and why? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each? I'll build both if there's good reason but is one a better choice over the other?
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Gas Forge:vertical vs. horizontal
- Thread starter Deweyknives
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2006
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- 2,264
Well, after messing with different things I came up with this:
http://www.caswellstudios.com/SwordPages/BodyPages/tools/forge.html
It's horizontal. The primary advantage is that I can easily change it around to suit any number of jobs.
http://www.caswellstudios.com/SwordPages/BodyPages/tools/forge.html
It's horizontal. The primary advantage is that I can easily change it around to suit any number of jobs.
Got have a horizontal blown forge from Darren Ellis. I decided on a horizontal forge because I personally believe that it's more generally useful. The reason I say that is that a vertical forge is great for damascus making since flux drops to the bottom and doesn't eat your kaowool, but you have to add a "bridge" or something if you want to work small pieces without a handle attached. In a horizontal I can set those pieces in on the floor of the forge and heat them up. If you properly line the forge, flux won't eat the bottom of it. I have been doing some forge welding in mine recently and see no evidence of flux eating the bubble alumina at the bottom of the forge.
I also like the blown burner over a venturi because it's very efficient. I can forge at 1 1/2-2PSI of gas and weld at 4-5PSI. The one thing I would change is that I'd get a longer horizontal forge. I've been starting to work on pattern welded billets and I wish I had a little more length to heat the whole piece evenly for drawing with the power hammer. Once I get to about a foot long I need to start working in sections.
I also highly recommend a forge from Darren. It's a top-notch piece of equipment, and Darren is a heck of a good guy as well.
-d
I also like the blown burner over a venturi because it's very efficient. I can forge at 1 1/2-2PSI of gas and weld at 4-5PSI. The one thing I would change is that I'd get a longer horizontal forge. I've been starting to work on pattern welded billets and I wish I had a little more length to heat the whole piece evenly for drawing with the power hammer. Once I get to about a foot long I need to start working in sections.
I also highly recommend a forge from Darren. It's a top-notch piece of equipment, and Darren is a heck of a good guy as well.
-d
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2006
- Messages
- 1,097
Thanks for the input. That's very inovative J.C.,I never thought of something like that!
Here's a description of what I started some time back [got impatient and questioned burner design so built a charcoal forge instead].
I found a burner refractory [6 individual bricks] that made a pot 8" x 18" inside dia. I took an old expansion tank from a boiler system [16ga. steel], cut the closed end at 20". Cut the next length at 18" [open both ends] and split it lengthwise. Assembled the refractory and put inside the second piece,drew it down tight and rewelded.Used spacers and slid this inside the first piece. Made angle iron feet and a shelf. Closed the face with soft firebrick. Used it a few times with a torch, could maintain 2000 degrees but could'nt afford the acetalene. And,man,is this thing HEAVY!!!!
K. Cashen's site has a great diagram for a burner set-up [thanks Kevin] so I'm on my way. Any more tips or sugestions would be appreciated!!
Thanks to all,
Randy,Deweyknives
Here's a description of what I started some time back [got impatient and questioned burner design so built a charcoal forge instead].
I found a burner refractory [6 individual bricks] that made a pot 8" x 18" inside dia. I took an old expansion tank from a boiler system [16ga. steel], cut the closed end at 20". Cut the next length at 18" [open both ends] and split it lengthwise. Assembled the refractory and put inside the second piece,drew it down tight and rewelded.Used spacers and slid this inside the first piece. Made angle iron feet and a shelf. Closed the face with soft firebrick. Used it a few times with a torch, could maintain 2000 degrees but could'nt afford the acetalene. And,man,is this thing HEAVY!!!!
K. Cashen's site has a great diagram for a burner set-up [thanks Kevin] so I'm on my way. Any more tips or sugestions would be appreciated!!
Thanks to all,
Randy,Deweyknives
- Joined
- May 3, 2004
- Messages
- 979
I use a hoizontal, because my forge is a sphere.
Deker, I roll out some of my damascus, so I occasionally need a little extra length too. I have a back door in my forge and I came up with something that helps. Its so simple, but I havn't seen it mentioned, so here it is.
Take an empty coffee can and line it with kaowool, the back too. prop this over the back door and youve added another 8-10" to your forge. Its tough to get this back area up to welding temp but for the occasional use it works great.
I hope this can help.
Thanks,
Del
Deker, I roll out some of my damascus, so I occasionally need a little extra length too. I have a back door in my forge and I came up with something that helps. Its so simple, but I havn't seen it mentioned, so here it is.
Take an empty coffee can and line it with kaowool, the back too. prop this over the back door and youve added another 8-10" to your forge. Its tough to get this back area up to welding temp but for the occasional use it works great.
I hope this can help.
Thanks,
Del
- Joined
- Feb 15, 1999
- Messages
- 11,566
I just use fire bricks. Checkout my website.
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2006
- Messages
- 1,097
Cool shop,IG. When I'm done,mine will resemble your forging forge.Kind of a "dragons breath" style. I have more plans than ambition anymore.Everything takes twice the work and time that it should. But hey, never give up and haste makes waste. Carry on!!!