Gatco Edgemate vs Lansky System

M

MarkT

Joined
Jul 27, 2008
Messages
16
Hi Everyone,

My budget is limiting me to either the Gatco Edgemate or the Lansky Sharpening System (stone or diamond - I haven't decided yet). Unfortunately, an Edge Pro is beyond my budget...

Both the Gatco and the Lansky systems are very similar.

Which is better? Has anyone experience with both?

Cheers,

MarkT
 
I have a Lansky and it works well if you're patient (regular stones, not diamond btw) even on D2 blades.

My issue with it is that the stones are kinda small and narrow and it takes forever if you want to sharpen anything over 3" or so.
 
I like my "bastard" setup the best. I use the GATCO clamp and base with DMT Diafolds (and Magna-Guide) for the times when I want to reprofile the bevels on a knife.

The rest of the time I just maintain the knives via the freehand method mostly using diamond or ceramic hones.
 
Interestingly enough, I ordered a DMT Diafold Magna-guide set on Wednesday. I think it should do the trick. I like the idea that the Diafold alone will allow me to freehand once I build up some confidence in my sharpening skills.

Cheers,

MarkT
 
I think you'll be pleased, Mark. The main advantage of the GATCO setup as I use it is that it allows me to use a bit of a shallower angle when resetting the bevel on a small knife and also that the base removes the need to hold the setup in your hand.
 
I wonder why each manufacturer has adjusted their preset angles slightly different from each other in their clamps...

DMT - 16, 20, 24, 28, 32, 36, 40
Lansky - 17, 20, 25, 30
Gatco - 11, 15, 19, 22, 25, 29

My new BM RSK Mk1 came with a 30 degree inclusive edge so I guess I'll have to use the DMT 16 degree setting. Do you think that will work ok?

Cheers,

MarkT
 
The 16 degree setting should work fine.

Actually the numbers are arbitrary because a narrow blade will be sharpened at a steeper angle than a wide blade at the same setting. They're just a ballpark number.
 
Mark,

In truth the numbers are mere approximations. It all depends on the width of the blade.
(The distance of the knife edge from the clamp itself.)

Don't get overly concerned with the numbers. The main thing is to find an angle that works with the knife and the system employed.

You'll find that if the angle is too shallow for the knife being sharpened that you'll end up hitting the clamp with the hone rather than the blade edge.

And if you do hit the edge and the angle is much shallower than the current bevel, you'll be sharpening for a while until you get to the edge.

Consider the numbers as approximate guides but take them with a grain of salt.
 
That's good information for sure. I plan on using the knife for survival tasks and general carry so it would be best if the blade angle was a good compromise between edge retention and durability. That said, the steel is S30V so I'm not sure how that factors in...

Cheers,

MarkT
 
There is enough slop in the slots on the various rod guided systems to account for a little leeway in angle setting. Except for the KME the rods are not a tight fit in the slots. I have found that with my GATCO the stone will "find" the edge and sit flat on it if the angle is close enough.

I prefer the GATCO. I also have a KME that was given to me for T&E. I do not have experience with the Lansky.

Like you said they are all very similar.

The GATCO gives you more angle choices.

I like the clamp better on the GATCO. Both the KME and the GATCO have a stand.

The KME has a padded clamp but that makes the clamp thicker so you can't get down to the smallest angle with narrower blades.

The KME can use any 4" x 1" stone. It seems like there are not a lot sold in that size. There are more 6" around.

The KME uses a spherical bushing to remove play in the rod. I think that the play helps with getting the angle right on.

The GATCO is a less expensive than
 
I had a look at the KME. Naturally I'm attracted to the cherry wood. I also like the fact that is uses pocket stones.

I suppose it all comes down to preference and what you're comfortable with. Ultimately, I'd like to be able to free hand confidently and accurately so that I'm not burdened with clamps and things.

In the mean time, I'll learn with the guided system.

Cheers,

MarkT
 
MarkT said:
I had a look at the KME. Naturally I'm attracted to the cherry wood. I also like the fact that is uses pocket stones.

I suppose it all comes down to preference and what you're comfortable with. Ultimately, I'd like to be able to free hand confidently and accurately so that I'm not burdened with clamps and things.

In the mean time, I'll learn with the guided system.

Cheers,

MarkT
Click to expand...

I think that is a good move. In the guided system you are using the rod to control the angle. In freehanding you are controling the angle with your hand-eye coordination.

The guided system can teach you the basics and mechanics of sharpening. When you are ready, remove the rod and you are freehanding.

No matter the system you use, guided, waterstones, oilstones, Arkansas, natural or diamond, it still comes down to making the two sides meet, removing the burr, and refining to suit your needs and dedsires. They all reach the same goal.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top