Gatco Sharpener: Any tips on keeping even bevel on both sides?

[Robert1_1]

So I just got my Gatco ultimate diamond sharpener the other day. For my first attempt, I went ahead and did a reprofile on an inexpensive Sanranmu 710. I started with the included stones and worked all the way up to 2500 grit sandpaper and was able to get a mirror polished razor sharp edge. I was pretty impressed especially considering it was my first attempt on the Gatco. However, I just couldn't figure out how to place the knife in the clamp so that you get an identical angle on both sides of the blade. It seems the bottom of the clamp that contains the holes that the rods ride in is not exactly level between both sides. And once you get the knife clamped there is at least a 1-2 degree difference between each side which I double checked with my angle cube. Part of the problem is that when the knife locks in, the space between the clamp at the top and bottom is not exactly the same, so the bottom parts are not exactly parallell to each other.

Since the holes have a bit of slop in them, I rubber banded some small thin pieces of wood to reduce the slop to force the rod up against the edge. If you can picture it, I did it against opposite sides to try and minimize the angle difference between the 2 sides. In the end, the knife came out with one side having a slighty wider bevel than the other. So any way to make sure you get the same angle on each side or is this not that big of a deal? I guess I could use some sort of shim between one side of the blade and the clamp. Anyone have the same issue with this sharpener? I'm guessing the Lansky will have the same problem.

 

[toker]

I have the same sharpener and unfortunately, it's a limitation of the system. Depending on the height and thickness of the blade, you're going to be limited on the exact angles you can get. I was never able to get perfectly even bevels on any knife I owned. I was able to get a decent edge though.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Might not be the fault of the clamp or sharpening system at all.

It's often the primary blade grind being asymmetrical (thicker steel on one side of the centerline) that creates the different bevel widths on each side. The 'thicker' side's bevels will always be wider at the same given sharpening angle. On inexpensive knives, the flats of the primary grind on each side may also not be at precisely the same angle, relative to the centerline of the blade (line extending from center of the spine, to the apex of the cutting edge). If the blade is clamped flush to the primary grind, one side of the clamp will therefore always sit at a slightly different angle, relative to the other side of the clamp on the other side of the blade.


David