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Gayle Bradley - First Sharpening Recommendations

quigibo

quigibo

Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Messages
246
I finally wore down the factory edge on my GB so now I've got an excuse to sharpen it.

My sharpening setup consists of DMT coarse and fine stones, a Spyderco ultra fine bench stone and a Sharp Maker. I'm trying to decide between free handing the whole bevel (not the hollow grind, just the bevel :p ) and just slapping a micro bevel on it via the Sharp Maker. Thoughts?

Also, is M4 better with a highly polished edge or left somewhat toothy?
 
I would try a micro bevel first, if it's not adequate . . . Go the 9 yards...:thumbup:
 
I've been having good luck with a polished edge on the Bradley M4. I think I set this at 17 dps up to 5000 grit on the Edge Pro. Finished with polish tapes. It's a slicing beast.

One of these days I'll get some more pictures. Till then here's this one again... :rolleyes:
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I dulled mine a touch with 100' of cut of heavy cardboard. A little stropping brought it back somewhat. When I get ready, I'll sharpen it with my DMT aligner.
 
I have been leaving the majority of my knives on a micro-bevel (after re-profiling most of the time) with the brown stones. Some steels like VG-10 and Super Blue I take to a finer grit just because, but the brown leaves an edge that is fine enough to push cut and shave, but still bites. Plus, stopping at the brown saves you time:)
 
I have no recommendation on the method, I just find that due to the high carbide volume in M4, it does amazing on about a 400-600 grit on a Wicke Edge. It will still push cut rope, but it is toothy as heck, and really bites in. Stays that way a LONG time too. I'm basing that off my Millie M4.
 
I actually prefer having my GB being a little toothy. Your methods are fine. Just experiment and see what you like best.
 
If its still the factory edge cut the apex off and give it a full sharpening, edge finish will depend on if you draw or pushcut more with it.
 
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