Gayle Bradley - refinished blade, pt. I

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Jan 27, 2007
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I got the Spyderco Gayle Bradley a couple weeks ago, and it's a very well-done working knife. The blade was stained a little when I got it, and over the last week it had really gotten blotchy.

Here's what I started with:
KnivesfortradeEliasflightlessonGBradleyknife036_zps6ce73b0f.jpg

KnivesfortradeEliasflightlessonGBradleyknife038_zps14435a62.jpg


Now, I figured that with only 4% Cr in the alloy (therefor not stainless), M4 might take a good forced patina with cider vinegar; heating the blade under hot tap water, drying it, then swabbing on the vinegar (brought just to a boil) left me with a rather ugly pattern. I didn't bother with pics, I'll just let it suffice to say it was a failed endeavor, other than learning a good lesson in how some modern high carbon steels behave differently from the more classic carbon steels like U.S. Schrade's old 1095.

So, I decided I'd try some Birchwood-Casey gun blueing solution. I bought a Carl Schleipper Stockman pattern with carbon steel blades from another member a while back, on which the owner had used gun bluing solution on the blades. They turned out really well. So, I was inspired to try the B-C cold blue on the M4 blade of the Gayle Bradley. I figured after the M4 blade of the GB came out blotchier after the vinegar treatment, I'd see if the B-C cold blue would even up the color tone. (This is a pic of comoha's work on the Schleipper: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-On-1095-Carbon-Steel?p=10538096#post10538096)

Here's the blade when I started:
KnivesfortradeEliasflightlessonGBradleyknife071_zpsf8eb92dc.jpg


After an initial cleaning with alcohol, swabbing with B-C cold blue, a dunk in cold water & drying off; I repeated this twice. At this point, you can see the odd etch lines that really stood out, apparently from the cider treatment. I figured I'd just end up with a nasty-ugly blade, but I started polishing the blade with Flitz after each swab-dunk-dry sequence to see if that would help.
KnivesfortradeEliasflightlessonGBradleyknife077_zps22a82f5f.jpg


Here it is after seven more swab-dunk-dry-polish-alcohol wipe sequences. It was slowly taking on a more even tone with each sequence, and I decided to stop at ten sequences. In the bottom pic you can see a little more of the faint blotchiness that was still showing through; the camera picked it up really well, but in hand you'd have to look for it.
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Overall, I'm happy with the results. I'll try another bluing cycle in April, after the blade has been used for a few more weeks.

I'd like to hear what you guys think of this, and any ideas or suggestions you have, if I need to do something differently.

And a big thumbs up to Mr. Gayle Bradley for a great knife design. :thumbup:

~Chris
 
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That's possibly the nicest looking Gayle bradley I have ever seen, I love it :thumbup:, question did you put tape or something else around the pivot hole or did you patina it as well, if you didn't how did it effect the smoothness of the knife?
 
I like it a lot. And the fact that you can see the factory markings perfectly make it even better. Good job!
 
One tip I can offer on the cold blue, it says "cold" but you really want the blade hot, like around 120F to fresh out of a boiling pot of water hot. The chemical reacts faster, more consistently, and the resulting finish is more durable.
 
Really cool. Next time you go through a bluing sequence see if you can shoot a quick vid on the process!
 
That looks great. Is it a dark bluing or black? It looks black in the photos.

It's a very dark blue, almost black. I stopped after repeating the process nine times, because the blade didn't seem to be darkening any further. I'd rather have a "bluer" cast to the appearance, but I had to really darken it to cover up all the funky blotches that stood out while I was doing this.

That's possibly the nicest looking Gayle bradley I have ever seen, I love it :thumbup:, question did you put tape or something else around the pivot hole or did you patina it as well, if you didn't how did it effect the smoothness of the knife?

Thanks! I'm really happy with how it looks now. As far as the pivot hole, I didn't tape over it. Part of my motivation for this project was to help prevent or slow rusting. I didn't blue the pivot area a deeply as the rest of the blade, but I may do that when I try this again in April.

One tip I can offer on the cold blue, it says "cold" but you really want the blade hot, like around 120F to fresh out of a boiling pot of water hot. The chemical reacts faster, more consistently, and the resulting finish is more durable.

Yup, I forgot about that step. I remembered that for the failed vinegar dip, but it slipped my mind on this one. I'll heat the blade in boiling water in April.

Looks so good I'll have to try also.

You'll love the results - but make sure you clean the blade really well before putting any bluing on it. I've seen otherwise beautiful guns that have had the finished ruined because some hack didn't take the time to prep the surface.

I've ruined a few projects in my time (woodworking & painting) because I got lazy with prep. :o

~Chris
 
For a bluer color maybe try brownell's oxpho blue, it's been a while since I've used it but IIRC the parts I used it on ended up more of a deep blue to bright blue-grey color.
 
KnivesfortradeEliasflightlessonGBradleyknife085_zps73b9584a.jpg


I'd like to hear what you guys think of this, and any ideas or suggestions you have, if I need to do something differently.

And a big thumbs up to Mr. Gayle Bradley for a great knife design. :thumbup:

~Chris
That's outstanding, Chris! Nice work!
 
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