Gayle Bradley.

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Feb 19, 2009
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337
I just got my Gayle Bradley a couple days ago, and have been playing with it. A few things I noticed that I dont like is the edges on the spyderhole seem a bit sharp. I actually cut myself on it, not badly, but enough to annoy me. Does anyone else notice this? Also, the edge on the linerlock seems a bit sharp to me, but that might just be because I've never used a liner lock before. Other than those two things, I love this knife. The weight doesn't really bother me either.
 
Congrats on a great knife. The sharpness of the round hole seems odd as both my GBs are excellently finished. You could always try and use some 1500-2000 grit sandpaper and gently smooth them out. Most people have slight calluses on their fingers and it's not a problem per se, just a matter of getting accustomed. ;)
 
mine is finished off real well. i like a spydie hole to have a little grab to it since i flick mine open by my thumbnail with no wrist action. this works well on all the bradleys,enduras & stretch i've bought in last year.
 
My GB has a sharp spyderhole but I don't think I could cut myself on it...I think it's perfect the way it is. My thumb really catches it fast for deploying the blade.

Matt
 
handled one today, and was very impressed with the fit/finish.

buttery smooth, and larger than i expected.

oh, and i got to meet tazkristi!!!!
 
The hole is supposed to be sharp, in order to get better grip on it. Not good if you cut yourself of course. It really shouldn't be possible since it's only a 90 degree angle we're talking about, but I guess if there's some burr left from the making of the hole, there would be a possibility to get a cut. Depends on how calloused your thumbs are too I guess.
 
I love sharp edges around the spyderhole and the spine. Gives great tactile feedback and it's fun to play with.
 
I agree that there should be some sharpness to it for grip, but I guess mine was a bit too sharp, or I don't have enough callouses yet. I tried sanding it down with some 1500(i tihnk) grit wet/dry sandpaper, it seemed to take a little of the bite out, but it still seems sharp enough to cut if I put enough pressure on it and slide, which is what happened before.
 
I recieved my GB (1st run with no GB logo) at the end of Jan, due to being on holiday I didn't have my usual hard thumb calluses on.
I normally have no problem with sharp Spydie holes but this Bradley's hole was the exception, it had quickly carved up my thumb after a week. The liner's edge is a little sharp for my liking too, but with my thumb being back to full hardness that's no real problem now. I did bevel the edge back on the Spydie hole though, I think I just used a tapered diamond file IIRC.

Bo
 
Also, can someone write up a quick guide on how to disassemle/reassemble the Gayle Bradley? I've never done this with any knife before, so I don't want to do it myself and risk doing something wrong. Also, does the pivot have loctite on it? If it does I would have to reapply loctite when I reassemble right?
 
i am pretty sure it does. i would use loctite on all of the screws. get the blue kind. as for the hole, the easiest way to get it sanded that i have heard of is to use some sandpaper and a marble. it will be uniform and you can check your progress after a couple of turns back and forth until you are happy with the end result. it is 3 screws for the scales, 3 for the clip and the on big pivot screw. i modded mine because i wanted it my way. ill try to find the thread for you.

edit: found it, there are a few mods i did to mine to make it the way i want it:) maybe you will like some of them and try them out.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726555
 
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i am pretty sure it does. i would use loctite on all of the screws. get the blue kind. as for the hole, the easiest way to get it sanded that i have heard of is to use some sandpaper and a marble. it will be uniform and you can check your progress after a couple of turns back and forth until you are happy with the end result. it is 3 screws for the scales, 3 for the clip and the on big pivot screw. i modded mine because i wanted it my way. ill try to find the thread for you.

edit: found it, there are a few mods i did to mine to make it the way i want it:) maybe you will like some of them and try them out.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726555

I really like the jimping modification at the choil in post #5, but thats a bit too risky for me, I usually screw that kind of thing up. Also, I can buy blue loctite at any hardware store(i.e Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.) right?
 
a quick search showed it..you can check with your zipcode if they have it. i think most big stores would.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_42539-133-01-24200_0_?productId=3033411&Ntt=loctite&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=loctite

that was my first time doing the jimping too. i just said screw it and did it.
 
a quick search showed it..you can check with your zipcode if they have it. i think most big stores would.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_42539-133-01-24200_0_?productId=3033411&Ntt=loctite&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=loctite

that was my first time doing the jimping too. i just said screw it and did it.

I just checked using my zip code, and it says the lowe's closest to me has it. I'll go pick some up tomorrow probably. I don't have a dremel, and I'm hesitant about trying to do the jimping with files, since CPM-M4 is really wear resistant. Also, is there anything I should note when disassembling/reassembling the knife?
 
if you are really are worried take pictures as you go, then you can work your way backwards and figure it out if you get stuck.
 
There's sharp holes, and then there's SHARP.
I've had to lightly chamfer a few which actually would start cutting through skin.
90 degrees is sharp enough to cut skin; just ask any machinist.
 
I really like the jimping modification at the choil in post #5, but thats a bit too risky for me, I usually screw that kind of thing up. Also, I can buy blue loctite at any hardware store(i.e Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.) right?

Or virtually any auto parts store.

On the hole, I'd start with 400 grit. If that doesn't soften the edge enough, try 200. Use the gray/black metal/paint paper, not the tan wood paper. You should have no trouble finding those at an auto parts store also.
 
There's sharp holes, and then there's SHARP.
I've had to lightly chamfer a few which actually would start cutting through skin.
90 degrees is sharp enough to cut skin; just ask any machinist.

I found that out when the hole cut me :o

Or virtually any auto parts store.

On the hole, I'd start with 400 grit. If that doesn't soften the edge enough, try 200. Use the gray/black metal/paint paper, not the tan wood paper. You should have no trouble finding those at an auto parts store also.

I checked Osh an hour or so ago, and couldn't find any loctite. I've sanded it down a little with some sandpaper, but it still seems sharp. I'll work on it some more later.
 
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