GB SFA handle guard/collar?

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Sep 8, 2014
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Just ordered a GB SFA. My first good hatchet/axe. I'd like to get a guard to put under the head. I could try making one with paracord, but I don't think it would look too good. Any suggestions for a good looking but cheap premade leather collar?
 
It's just a hatchet! Is your aim so lousy that you figure on overstrikes being in the cards? Forgo the decoration and get out there and use it. If anything some sort of cover or sheath will do you a lot of good.
 
It's just a hatchet! Is your aim so lousy that you figure on overstrikes being in the cards? Forgo the decoration and get out there and use it. If anything some sort of cover or sheath will do you a lot of good.

No, but it looks cool, and a little bit of protection sure can't hurt. I plan on using it quite a bit. It comes with a sheath/cover and I plan on rigging up a paracord shoulder strap for it, so I've got that covered.

badgerclaw leather works


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Thanks, I'll check em out.
 
It's just a hatchet! Is your aim so lousy that you figure on overstrikes being in the cards? Forgo the decoration and get out there and use it. If anything some sort of cover or sheath will do you a lot of good.

What he said.

A guard just gets in the way. The haft needs to be slimmer than the axe or it will get pinched in the split. When chopping, hit with the bit not the haft. When splitting, hit the near side of the wood not the far side. No need for a guard which will draw damage like a magnet.
 
What he said.

A guard just gets in the way. The haft needs to be slimmer than the axe or it will get pinched in the split. When chopping, hit with the bit not the haft. When splitting, hit the near side of the wood not the far side. No need for a guard which will draw damage like a magnet.

So it usually causes more damage? Huh. Thanks for the info. :thumbup:
 
It doesn't cause or prevent damage to the axe. It just gets in the way and gets damaged itself. But it looks pretty if you're not planning to use the axe.
 
I used "Fiber Fix" for over strike protection on a maul and a surplus axe handle that was damaged before I got it. Seems to work good, water and blood proof. I filed a shoulder in the handle and roughed up the surface for a seamless fit and better adhesion.
ry%3D400

ry%3D400
 
Just ordered a GB SFA. My first good hatchet/axe. I'd like to get a guard to put under the head. I could try making one with paracord, but I don't think it would look too good. Any suggestions for a good looking but cheap premade leather collar?

I wouldn't do a collar without a good reason. I did once for a hatchet a leather collar, but just because the handle ridge right below the bit was too sharp and quite uncomfortable for my taste when holding it for carving tasks. At the end I got rid of the handle and the collar all together. Make yourself a leather sheath - is a lot more important.
 
It doesn't cause or prevent damage to the axe. It just gets in the way and gets damaged itself. But it looks pretty if you're not planning to use the axe.

Agreed, on axes this size most of the material is seperated well before it makes it far enough up the bit to damage the wood right below the head. Splitting axes have some use for them as you drive your bit into a round if it doesn't split completely your left with the top of the round sometimes contacting the handle. Even for over strikes you will be just barely hitting the collar. Guards are a fashion accessory.
 
I used "Fiber Fix" for over strike protection on a maul and a surplus axe handle that was damaged before I got it. Seems to work good, water and blood proof. I filed a shoulder in the handle and roughed up the surface for a seamless fit and better adhesion.
ry%3D400

ry%3D400


This on the other hand is interesting.
 
As others have said, a guard will make carving much less fun on a small axe like that.
 
If we're talking about the Small Forest Axe then there really isn't much room for a guard. At least not if you plan to use the axe as you stated.

The handle on the SFA is rather thick especially at the shoulder or at least on the one I own. The handle just below the ears is nearly the thickness of the axe head as it sits already. Adding a collar on top of this would make the handle thicker than the head. This isn't good because it increases the chance of deflection since the handle or collar is more likely to hit first. You don't want a 1.5 lbs hunk of steel with a sharp edge going in unintended directions, or at least I hope you don't. The other issue that can arise is that the collar will become damaged in splitting, not from overstrikes, but simply from being the widest part of the wedge. In the case of things like leather and Paracord even if you manage to keep the width less than that of the head splitting wood with twisted grain can cause the wood to come into contact with the handle or collar regardless since the axe will turn with the twist as it sinks into the wood. Of course if you split from the side rather than the ends this issue is diminished.

Personally I don't generally use gaurds or collars, but I did put one on a handle that I had made quite thin. They have their place like anything else, but they need to fit the axe and the use case properly in order to be worth the while.
 
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