GEC 15 bolster and liner material

D

doppiodan

Joined
Sep 7, 2014
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Can anyone confirm what material the liners and bolsters are on a GEC #15? I'm looking at a nifebrite clip point and am curious about what GEC uses. The description says "steel". I assume by this that it's carbon steel (I know the Charlows are) and not stainless or nickel silver.

I was thinking about letting a natural patina develop on this one, but don't like any corrosion in the pivot or on the liners. My thought was to treat the liners and blade tang with CLP, Corrosion X, Eezox, or something and leave the rest of the blade au naturel. Has anyone tried this?
 
I believe the liners are brass and the bolsters nickle silver? On the charlows though, the bolsters are steel and the liners steel as well.
 
The bolsters on the #15 barlow and the boys knives are iron, they will take some patina but don't seem to patina as quickly as the blade steel does.
 
Wow I didn't know that. Are there any other GEC patterns with non nickel silver material for the bolsters?
 
Bladenoobie1 said:
Wow I didn't know that. Are there any other GEC patterns with non nickel silver material for the bolsters?
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Yes, there are a handful, and they are my favorite!

I have a steel toenail, and a #25 barlow with steel liners and bolsters. they will slowly patina over time.


I feel like the knives are more robust for having them!
 
What is the "steel toenail"? Still somewhat new to traditionals. I really like the patina on bolsters too. I saw one picture of a charlow here with nicely aged bolsters. I would love to have that look, but I am unsure of how the bolsters get there. Even if you cut food, the food only touches the blade?
 
Very cool. Thanks for the confirmation! I am cool with a nice patina on the bolsters but plan to keep the knife as a long-time user. I hope I can keep the pivot and liners fairly pristine. Hard to see rust until it's too late! Any recommendations? I'm looking for something I can apply every few months, not days, as a rust preventative.
 
doppiodan said:
Very cool. Thanks for the confirmation! I am cool with a nice patina on the bolsters but plan to keep the knife as a long-time user. I hope I can keep the pivot and liners fairly pristine. Hard to see rust until it's too late! Any recommendations? I'm looking for something I can apply every few months, not days, as a rust preventative.
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This isn't a food safe option, but it doesn't matter if you're only applying it to the pivot, liners, springs, and the inner surfaces. I personally use tuff glide as a lubricant and rust inhibitor on my carbon traditional knives. I apply a heavy amount to the inside of the springs and let it dry. It's a dry lubricant, but a great rust protector. They also make other products like marine tuff cloth and solution. Great stuff for preventing rust. Basically what I do with all my traditional knives is thoroughly clean or lightly wash them. Depending on the handle material you can't always use soap so a light wash is fine. I have been finding a lot of vintage knives and sometimes GECs develop rust spots and/or pitting in the inside of the spring. What I do is get a credit card, put sandpaper on one end, then stick the card into the space between the liners. I scrape the inside of the springs removing any rust and to clean up pits. The sandpaper wears fast when you do that so rotate it every once in awhile. After I am sure that the surface rust is gone I apply the tuff glide heavily and let it dry. Afterwards (you don't need to do this) I put a layer of paste wax I had made from beeswax and mineral oil. Provides a nice protective coating and it fills and seals any pits prevent any further moisture to allow corrosion. In the pivot just apply the lubricant of your choice. I use nano oil and tuff glide. Tuff glide is nice because it is a dry lubricant and won't attract dust or dirt. As far as frequency of application I apply it probably twice a week because I'm have OCD (not really, but I don't need to reapply that often :D). I think the tuff glide should last fairly long, but really it all depends on how you are using your knife and how often you are doing so. If you cut some food and some juices went inside of the knife you probably want to clean it and reapply.
 
Bigfattyt said:
#36 pattern.

Also called Sunfish, Steel Toenail, Elephant Toe.
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That's a sweet looking knife! Along with what you have on the grill. I looked up the model and it has a .156" thick blade! Pretty thick for a traditional knife, but it is pretty wide too. How is the cutting performance?
 
Bladenoobie1 said:
That's a sweet looking knife! Along with what you have on the grill. I looked up the model and it has a .156" thick blade! Pretty thick for a traditional knife, but it is pretty wide too. How is the cutting performance?
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Cutting performance is better than the thickness would lead you to believe. The swedge takes a good bit of the thickness off.

The blade is wide, so it is a pretty thin/shallow flat grind angle. The secondary blade is really thin and slices very well.
 
Bigfattyt said:
#36 pattern.
Also called Sunfish, Steel Toenail, Elephant Toe.
Click to expand...

You are showing a knife and all I can see is that "gold on the hoof" in the background. Good looking calf crop.
Also wondering if the old corral wood would make good handles once epoxy impregnated.
Sorry, back to the conversation....

I do like the steel bolsters, where it will wear tougher; but don't think I like it as well as maybe NS on the liners. Also wish they would work more of a crocus finish on it.
 
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