General Knife making question

H

Harleyd2900

Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
114
My question is, how would you go about attaching this part(Below).



Would you sauder it on, pin it on, screw it on?

Is there a tutorial on this?

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And
On a knife like this do you simply drill a hole in the wood, slide it on, and put a pin in? It dosn't seem like it would be a tight fit if it were done like this.
 
On the first knife I'd probably pin and then give a wash with supper thin supper glue as a moister seal, just in case.

One the second, it is a hidden tange and if done rite with a good quality epoxy the pin is realy more for looks. It is no problem to get everything tight with this type construction. You can eigther drill the pin hole after epoxying up or fit everything with the handle drilled but not the tange then put a mark on the tange and drill just a hair forward(less than a thousandth) and grind a point on the pin and drive it in. You shouldn't need a big hammer, light taps, you want it snug, but not spliting the handle material.

A hidden tange means the tange is hidden and out of sight. Also called stick tange.

A full tange basicly means the handle profile is the width of the blade. The tange showes around the center of the handle and extends the full width of the handle.
 
Ok, so on the second knife one would just have to be very precise on the flatness of the finger-guard and handle so that they are about even when they make contact, because the pressure of the handle is what is holding on the finger-guard? Or is the finger-guard already held on some other way? It must be saudered on, right?

And the epoxy is placed into the hole one the handle before sliding on to the tang, right?
 
Harleyd2900 - Read some of the tutorials on guards and handles.They explain it pretty good.Any book on knife making will have the answers you ask, also.A quick answer is - On a hidden tang knife,the guard is soldered or attached with JB weld to the blade,and the handle is a tight fit up to it.Epoxy fills the hole in the tang and makes the assembly strong and firm.In a full tang with butt caps (your first photo) the front and rear (bolsters and butt caps)metal are pinned on and sealed with solder or glue to keep moisture out.
Stacy
 
If the surfaces are not perfectly even with each other could you cut a piece of leather and use it as a spacer?
 
I normaly use fiber spacers with natural handle material to give a little shock absorber when the handle shinks and expands due to the weather. On mycarta and other plastics I use a plastic linner for color only. Get it as precise a fit as posible. The linner helps very little with a sloppy fit. I have used leather, but with it you need a way of drawing it up tight.
 
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