General Maintenance Routine

H

hewhoisiam

Joined
Apr 21, 2011
Messages
221
Okay, I tend to be long winded in these. Bear with me here. I have several general maintenance questions.

I maintain, use, sharpen, and fondle my knives. (yeah yeah, I like my knives, so sue me) I had been (and am still) a huge Kershaw fan, I've been carrying a Leek for about 5 years with almost no problems. (I own 4 Leeks, did send one off for a new torsion bar. A+ customer service!) I've recently moved a little more into the third thing on the list, the fondling. I picked up a Kershaw speed bump, some Kabars, A SOG, a Spyderco Endura ZDP-189 (fondling now in fact)

In any event, the big question here is that I use the speed bump and the Endura in my EDC the most. And I noticed today that my Speed Bump has some rust spots on the blade. I consider it to be 'superficial' at the moment, as it's very light and not really on the cutting edge of the blade. The rust is body side of the carry, I imagine that sweat and general wear causing it, but it sucks and I don't want it.

It's odd because my old OLD leek never had these issues, (it got stolen from me at work. Set it down on a box, went away for a second, came back, gone.) and my newer leek doesn't either. Granted my new leek is still 4-5 years old so the steel may have changed. I thought it odd that the speed bump rusted at all, as I held it to the same standards as my old knife. My general use for the knife is opening boxes, it's not like I'm hacking 2x4s here before throwing it in the mud and cutting through sheet metal. It's rusting from being carried, which means my maintenance sucks. And this is where you (yes YOU) are going to help me.

Right now, I usually wait until the knife gets dull, then I sharpen, oil, and maintain. Typically the tip is the most used for me, followed by the belly, so I sharpen it to a greater angle than the rest of the knife (but I suck at tips, more on this in a second)

I have had for a few years (and still have) A DMT duo side diamond sharpener in 600/1200. I sharpen as best I can with the original blade grinding angle and get good results. (same technique on any knife, and great results) I haven't ever stropped a blade, but I've read about it here on bladeforums and will prolly try it next time I sharpen something. I haven't really every repaired a destroyed/heavily damaged blade, I maintain, I don't really repair, because I don't do something stupid that would destroy my blade.

On those lines, I need to know a few things: I have a feeling that I'm going to be schooled here in steel types. The new Kershaws are in 14C28N. I find it's a pleasure to work with on the sharpening side of things and holds the edge pretty well. I also find it rusts (new to me) What can I do to keep it from rusting? Is this a steel I need to oil every day? Once a week? Help appreciated.

Now, the Endura FFG in ZDP-189 I have the same few questions. Does that steel need oil every day? Once a week? That damn thing stays scary sharp for a stupid long time I'm told, but I couldn't find the Rockwell hardness for the Kershaw proprietary steel 14C28N ... I love the ZDP-189 so far, and it doesn't have any rust -yet- (I've had it for about 2 weeks EDC) What do I need to do to keep that steel happy/healthy?

Now. Onto sharpening tips. And I mean the tip of the blade, cause I'm pretty much self taught as far as sharpening, and I suck at tips. My typical sharpening setup is the stone down on a solid surface, knife at the correct angle 'cut' into the stone (600), change side after a few strokes when you feel the blade is sharp there and you've got the burrs at the other side of the blade. Repeat. Go to 1200, increase the angle slightly and repeat to get that really fine edge. It's worked well for me -though I can't do that with the speed bump!- (damn concave blade shapes... that I love and work well)

But the tips! I always screw up the tips. They never really get done when I sharped the knife, sure they get a little bit of love when I sharpen the whole knife, but they still 'seem' dull to me. Is that normal or is it because I use my tips so much? I go give them special treatment, several passes at 600 for just that 1/8th inch or so end of the blade at a slightly greater angle. Then onto the 1200, because... OCD means I have to 1200 the whole blade! *grindgrindgrind*

Is there an advantage to keeping the tip the same angle as the blade? Any advise or crits of my normal maintenance routine? ESP in regard to people who know ZDP-189 and 14C28N maintenance. Thanks again for putting up with all that blah blah blah.

-He
 
Too many words on the first post. This one. Short.

What is the best way to maintain ZDP-189 and 14C28N steel?
 
To remove rust I use Flitz metal polish. As far as rust, did you check if the blade finish was changed? I noticed that kershaws with the bead blast finish seem to rust very easily. I had the same problem with a small kershaw chive. Just the natural humidity of my work pocket caused some specking. As far as oiling, id just throw some mineral oil on it every few days. If you find no rust, try once a week, and oil more if rust returns. It all depends on the amount of use of the blade and the level of care the knife receives (as well as the environment it is used). As for zdp-189 I find it can rust relatively easily but a once a week or possibly more application of oil should keep it nice and healthy.

Cant say much to your sharpening technique as I use the sandpaper method. My whole blade stays nice and sharp. I would have to see your technique to give more advice. I would add in some stropping as it really helps give a nice final edge.
 
Welcome on BF!

+1 on the stropping, but if the point is dull, then you can strop all you want and it won't help. Try refining your method, maybe experiment on a cheapo kitchen knife. I still do that sometimes, just buy one for $1 :)
I'd just treat all your knives the same.
Keep them clean and clean after use.
Be careful with corrosive materials.
Use them as they were meant to be used.
Keep them oiled

same angle for the whole blade is easier to sharpen once you have the technique down. But it might make your tip thinner.
 
Thanks guys. My technique for sharpening is doing a fine job getting things nice and sharp, it was more a question of 'should the tip be at a special angle' to preserve the sharp. More angle means blunter, but sharp longer. The rest was about how often to oil, thanks for the answers and welcome :)
 
Okay, stropping wins. I didn't have leather, so, cardboard + 600 grit, followed by 1200 grit on my Kershaw bump. This is uh, scary. It cuts well as my FFG endura ZDP-189. I'm having a sharpening day. Next up, a much used leatherman wave (vintage 2004, well used)
 
As for the rust performance of the ZDP189...

I carry a Spyderco Caly 3 CF with ZDP everyday and have for over 4 years. It doesn't have a stain or any kind of rust on it whatsoever. Every couple of weeks I will put a drop or two of Tuf-Glide dry lubricant on it and rub in around on the blade and put a drop in the pivot. Thats about it.

My Endura 4 ZDP got forgotten/lost in a tackle box for over a year and a half. It was covered in gunk and fish guts sitting in the bottom of that tackle box for all that time. (Good for nothing brothers borrowing knives!). When I found it I was heartbroken to find some rust pitting on the blade (no where near the edge). Most of the surface rust washed off with a scrub brush and soap and water, but the very small pits remained. I sent it off to Spyderco to get some loving and I have been waiting for it to return ever since. It did not have Tuf-Glide on it as my brother had been using it for sometime, and well, he doesn't care for tools as I do.

I love Tuf-Glide and recommend it for any knife owner. It lubricates very well. It goes on like an oil then dries. When dry it does not attract lint or dust so it helps keep your knife clean longer.
 
Okay, so it's been a few weeks... Shortly after my first post, I took the rust specking off and treated the blade with oil. I've since kept the blade oiled every 4-5 days-ish. Today, specking is back. It's only a little bit, but I think I might have the reasons pinned down.

I started using this knife for my edc blade at work when I started using the 5.11 taclite pro pants. Because of the blade shape and size and the dedicated knife pocket. Pulling the knife out today, the knife was wet. (Kershaw Bump) I'ma assume it has something to do with me sweating on the knife (duh) I carry the Endura 4 in the cargo pocket (very secure) The ZDP has no problems what so ever but the Sandvik has the light specking.

Now, I'm generally very forgiving of my equipment, even the stuff that I use hard, but I'm wondering hard about this steel. This is the closest to 'hard use' that I've done with a knife, and the blade performs well except for the rust. Not many others are having rust issues and I'm not so daft as to think I'm not at fault here in some way. This stuff sharpens up easy and holds an edge well, but it's not practical for me to be taking it out and cleaning it -during- the work day. Though I could be admittedly more vigilant cleaning it every day instead of every 4-5. I own several leeks and Kershaw has always done right by me. I'm trying to think of the best way to make this blade closer to maintenance free.

Anyone ever duracoat one of these things? Or should I just take it apart, put it through some hard cleaning (more than last time I removed the rust) and make sure I didn't leave anything behind? Would a duracoat even work with the tolerances of the knife and not leave it rubbing? I'ma go scouer the picture thread and harass people in PMs for a while.

Thanks
 
i've had these issues with a leek when i used to carry one in the kitchen. i usually carried one in rfp under the apron, back then i worked in a very busy kitchen (700/day) and my clothes were damp at the end of each shift. i didn't really surprise me, in these conditions i've even had rust spots on a polished S30V blade.

i managed to keep this marginal on the leek just by buffing the blasted finish to shiny. it's quite easy by hand with a good polishing paste and a rag.

12c27, 13c26, 19c27 and the like are not uber stainless, they are designed to be as close to carbon steel as possible but easier to maintain. i've seen patina on 19c27 kitchen blades. but they are steel stainless enough for normal EDC duty.

try polishing the blade before discarding the steel, it's more likely the finish that causes that. 13c26 is a great hard use steel, it's pretty tough and can be kept sharp very easy even when abused.

and btw if (like me) you don't use your folding knife on food, there's really no need to scrub the rust as soon as you see it on the field, it won't eat your blade during your shift, neither it will contaminate the cardboard you cut ... forget it till you come back home.
 
But... My cardboard might have little cardboard children... Think of the children... think of the rust! :D
 
So. "this is not H-1, this is Sparta"

What paste do you use? I used a stripping solution to take off the rust, then an oil to coat the blade when I removed (was not hard, no deep pitting, only minor specking. Some removed by just rubbing the blade)

If my last post made it seem like I was disregarding the steel, then I apologize for that. Takes edge, keeps edge, sharpens easily is 90-95% of how I rate a blade, and as I said, rust ends up being bad on me. And scrubbing it on the field was an exaggeration. I see it... and it makes me paranoid (NOT HARD TO DO) I'm in the mindset of nipping it in the butt before it becomes a problem.

Thanks for the reply and help in any event! Will defiantly change some things. Starting with taking the knife apart and working it clean to start 'from scratch' Look for an update either way in a few weeks (or days, WCS)
 
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