General Purpose Axe Set-up

T

thunderstick

Joined
Jan 15, 2007
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554
I did a search and did not see any threads dedicated to this topic--so here goes. This is not a "if you are going off into the wilderness" or "if you could only have one axe" thread. If you want to respond in that way -- that is perfectly fine--but it is not the focus of the thread. I think most of us have specialized axes for specific chores, but sometimes we have an axe that we grab in case we need an axe--for whatever the need may be that day. It could be the axe you carry or put in the truck when you are checking fence lines and fence rows. The one you grab for some wood cutting chores--limbing to splitting. Maybe its the one you take camping just in case.

I have two such axes--with unmarked vintage heads. Both show forging marks and have high quality bits that challenge a good file. They both take a very good edge. One was my grandpa's farm axe. They are a roughly 3.5# Connecticut pattern with moderately high center cheeks. I have them on a 32" stouter handle and a 36" slimmer handle respectively. I'm glad they are not brand-marked as they have less commercial value and more value to me as a working tool. The Connecticut pattern with a higher center is a good compromise for chopping and splitting. I prefer a shorter fuller handle (better control with a full hand grip) for most chopping and a longer slimmer handle (more shock absorption and less width to catch on the wood) for most splitting.

What do you like?
 
Pics of the two axes. I think the larger one is probably 4# though I never weighed the head.
2_general_purpose.jpg
 
In a generalist axe I think a high center is a must. It helps to prevent sticking and pops out the chips better. Penetration is not as good as with a dedicated flatter cheek chopper but I'd rather have a non-sticker anyway. I dislike spending time and energy dislodging an axe because it ruins the rhythm of work. It's not as much of a framing or shaping tool. However a high center with the edges laid back will chop quite well and will be a much better splitter.

Years ago the average farmer or homestead did not have a plethora of axes ... as I remember in my younger years... it was more like, "Boy go get the axe" and that axe did the job. The one advantage of this was the guy got to know his axe. We typically find these old vintage pieces in less then optimum condition--full of cut nails in the head, chips in the bit, and mushroomed polls. Why ... well they likely used that axe for most anything that was deemed axable. I can't bring myself to abuse a tool, and most of mine even with hard use get loving care. I have been around some people who were hard on tools but they knew how to get work done. Most of these old generalist heads could tell a lot of stories. They were "the axe that did what needed to be done."

When my grandpa passed on I wanted his big and small (hatchet size) axe. When I started getting into axes my father-in-law brought out his dad's double bit axe. He said, "I want the original handle tightened and restored. Make it good and sharp and then we are going to retire it. That was the farm axe I grew up with. We kept one side sharp and the other side blunter for grubbing brush and roots in the fence rows. Don't stain the wood just preserve it." I tightened up the handle by extracting the center wedge, dropping the head a little further down the shoulder and re-wedged it. I used BLO finish on the handle--multiple coats and days in the sun room. I reprofiled the bit but kept the original patina. Yup it's now another serviceable high center generalist double bit farm axe that got retired for memories.
 
The 'boy, go get the axe' bit sounds familiar. It was what it was. Wooden handled Fiskars for as long as I remember. In similar vein my axe today is Fiskars, normal or camp sized. Both've been used and abused more than 25 yrs. and still earning their keep.
'hawks and racing axes come out when mood or need strikes, these work Fiskars are always out, if you get my meaning
 
A boys axe is really perfect for any of my axe needs ( as much as I need honestly ), and this woodslasher Dayton has been great.
I'd prefer a Michigan because it's my favorite pattern, but this one works.
 
thunderstick said:
In a generalist axe I think a high center is a must. It helps to prevent sticking and pops out the chips better. Penetration is not as good as with a dedicated flatter cheek chopper but I'd rather have a non-sticker anyway. I dislike spending time and energy dislodging an axe because it ruins the rhythm of work. It's not as much of a framing or shaping tool. However a high center with the edges laid back will chop quite well and will be a much better splitter.

Years ago the average farmer or homestead did not have a plethora of axes ... as I remember in my younger years... it was more like, "Boy go get the axe" and that axe did the job. The one advantage of this was the guy got to know his axe. We typically find these old vintage pieces in less then optimum condition--full of cut nails in the head, chips in the bit, and mushroomed polls. Why ... well they likely used that axe for most anything that was deemed axable. I can't bring myself to abuse a tool, and most of mine even with hard use get loving care. I have been around some people who were hard on tools but they knew how to get work done. Most of these old generalist heads could tell a lot of stories. They were "the axe that did what needed to be done."

When my grandpa passed on I wanted his big and small (hatchet size) axe. When I started getting into axes my father-in-law brought out his dad's double bit axe. He said, "I want the original handle tightened and restored. Make it good and sharp and then we are going to retire it. That was the farm axe I grew up with. We kept one side sharp and the other side blunter for grubbing brush and roots in the fence rows. Don't stain the wood just preserve it." I tightened up the handle by extracting the center wedge, dropping the head a little further down the shoulder and re-wedged it. I used BLO finish on the handle--multiple coats and days in the sun room. I reprofiled the bit but kept the original patina. Yup it's now another serviceable high center generalist double bit farm axe that got retired for memories.
Click to expand...

I’m totally with you. To me s general purpose axe means something about 3-1/2 pounds on a 32” handle . And must have a good high centerline just for the reasons you stated.
 
I used to be more hot on the Boy's axe and still like them as a light duty packing axe. I see the Boy's axe more as a kindling or forest axe. For a generalist application I prefer a full size head for chopping or splitting.
 
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