Gerber Backpax vs. Gransfor Bruks???

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Mar 18, 2005
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Well, I am going to get a Becker CU7, as for the money I dont think it can be beat--I can get one for around $40 NIB. But, does it still pay to get a hatchet for heavy cutting?
If so, which is the best and why? Everyone talks about the Gransfor, but I cant see how it is any better than a Gerber, unless the steel is that much better. Is it? Cost is ALWAYS a question for me. I live on a fixed income and have very little to spare. I try to maximize the VALUE I receive for my money spent!
 
I love my little GB mini, it feels great in the hand & cuts like a demon. I have heard that the Wetterling axes are almost as good for a lot less money, they just aren't as nicely finished as the GBs & QC isn't as good. I've never used a Gerber hatchet, only picked them up & put them back down - they don't feel "alive" to me.

Oh, in response to your original question - if you are going to be doing a lot of chopping then you will be much happier w/a hatchet than with whaling away with a BK7. It's a good knife, but a knife ain't a hatchet - not even a big knife like a Busse Basic 9, in my experience.
 
Get a Wetterling #13 if you are watching the pennies. I have one that I have used a lot on seasoned, sun dried hardwoods and the performanc was excellent and the edge was not affected in the slightest. The finish leaves a lot to be desired, but you cant knock it for the money. Ditto on the Paxe, they just feel dead in the hand and IMHO the shaft is a wee bit short for it to be of any real use.
 
azranger said:
Well, I am going to get a Becker CU7, as for the money I dont think it can be beat--I can get one for around $40 NIB. But, does it still pay to get a hatchet for heavy cutting?
If you intend to chop thick woods, 2"+, they yes, the hatchet will be of significant benefit.

Everyone talks about the Gransfor, but I cant see how it is any better than a Gerber, unless the steel is that much better. Is it?
It is more the shape than the steel, though the steel is very good. Try Wetterling for similar performance at much less money.

-Cliff
 
Many people better than I swear by the GB line of axes. Personally I would love to have one, the mini or the SFA, but my finances are just not there yet. A year or so I picked up a Gerber Gator Combo for less than $30 at Wallyworld. The combo is the Small gator axe with a fixed blade secured in the handle by a magnet. Out of the box they needed some sharpening but after that they have been great and continue to supprise me. I also have a Vaughen hatchet that I picked up a few years ago and the Gerber will out chop it through pretty much everything I have thrown at them.
So until the day I pony up for the GB's I think the Gerber is a great tool.
Mike
 
I like the gb wildlife axe/hatchet.it's handle is 14" long.The head has a 3" cutting edge.Weighs in at 16oz and can be had for around 70$
 
I made a short commentary on the other thread earlier. I thought I'd quote it here as well, since this seems to be the live one.
Way-O said:
I'd think a 7" quality knife can handle any light chopping. If you're going to do extensive/hard chopping or splitting, a hatchet might be a good tool to have.

If you're worried about the price, get the Gerber. The main difference between the Gransfors and the Gerber is the profile. Gerber axes are much thicker behind the edge than hand made axes. They may not be so well suited for delicate tasks. But if you're carrying a knife as well, that's really not a problem. They split firewood very well. I would not worry about the quality of the steel. It's there. And the coating, of which significance is arguable, is very tough. I guess the secondary grind (at least) could be reprofiled, but this would be laborous. I'm not sure if there would be significant benefits.

The Back Paxe is very light (under half a kilo) and the belt sheath is very solid. And you'll never have to replace the handle. I have to believe they are indestructable. I saw the Gerber/Fiskars axes endure long term hard use in the FDF. The handle also allows a comfortable high 'choke' grip, if you need to whittle something or make kindlings. I've found some traditional woodel handles to be very uncomfortable when holding them close to the head.

The handle is very short though, and I have seen the larger Camp Axe sold with the same belt sheath. The heads are the same size, and the larger model is only marginally heavier. If the length is an issue, but you'd still like some leverage once in a while, I suppose you also could fashion a wooden pole and stick it inside the hollow handle and secure it through the lanyard holes.

I'd also suggest checking if Hultafors axes are sold where you live. These are hand made and seem to be of high quality. Around here they are sold for about the same as the Gerber/Fiskars axes.

Please feel free to comment, I'd appreciate it.
 
Even with a small knife, the profile is of critical importance when chopping to give high penetration while allowing fluid chopping. If you have the time and inclination you can grind one out of a cheap axe if the steel is there, Jim Aston has pages and links to other pages on such mods. The GB line works well on medium density woods NIB. Ebay can also turn up quality axes if you are patient, they almost never show top down shots though so you always have to ask.

-Cliff
 
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