Gerber Longbow?

Joined
Dec 15, 2006
Messages
622
I know that Gerber doesn't generally have the best reputation around here, but does anyone about this knife:

http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ...Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=longbow&noImage=0
i517427sn04.jpg

?

Specifically, what steel is it made of, how is the heat treat, etc . . .


I desperately want this knife to live up to it's inspiration, and my all-time favorite knife, the Gerber 400 from the presentation series, but I thought I'd ask before buying one.
 
Duh, I thought that was a measurement, and not the type of steel used.

Thanks!

Is that really a "super steel" or is it just 440 re-named?

It appears that 154cm is somewhat like ATS-34...

The Steel FAQ in The Toolshed says...

ATS-34/154CM, VG-10, and S60V are the next group up. It's difficult
to make generalizations about ATS-34 and 154-CM -- they are in such
widespread use that heat treat varies widely. These steels provide a
high-end performance benchmark for stainless steels, and hold an edge
well, and are tough enough for many uses (though not on par with good
non-stainlesses). They aren't very stain resistant, however. VG-10
can be thought of as being like ATS-34 and 154-CM, but doing just
about everything a hair better. It's a little more stain resistant,
tougher, holds an edge a little better. And VG-10 has vanadium in it,
it's fine-grained and takes the best edge of this group. S60V has by
far the best wear resistance of the group, though consensus is
becoming that it should be left around the same hardness as 440C
(56ish Rc), which means it will be relatively weak compared to ATS-34,
154-CM, and VG-10, and so it will indent and lose its edge quickly
when strength is required. S60V is the winner here when pure
abrasion resistance is much more important than edge strength.
 
154cm is basically 440c with 4% points of chromium replaced with molybdenum almost no sacrifice in hardness. Its not a rare steel, my leatherman wave has a 154cm blade.
 
What about the heat treat, and overall quality of the knife?

It seems that this is a special run for Cabelas. Does that effect the quality at all?
 
Stress Relieving
Annealed Parts: Heat to 1100-1300°F (595-705°C),
hold 2 hours, then furnace cool or cool in still air.
Hardened Parts: Heat to 25-50°F (15-30°C) below
the original tempering temperature, hold 2 hours,
then furnace cool or cool in still air.

Hardening
Preheat: Heat to 1400°F (760°C) Equalize.
Austenitize: 1900-2000°F (1037-1093°C), hold
time at temperature 30-60 minutes.

Quench:
Oil or positive pressure (4 bar minimum)
to below 125°F (50°C), or salt quench to about
1000°F (540°C), then air cool to below 125°F
(50°C). Salt bath treatment, if practical, will ensure
the maximum attainable toughness for a given
hardening treatment.(This is what crucilbe steels
say but it is known to be an air hardening steel.)

Temper:
Twice at 400-1200°F (204-650°C),
2 hours minimum each time.

Note: As with all martensitic stainless steels, tempering at 800-
1100°F (425-600°C) will result in sensitization which causes a
minor reduction in both corrosion resistance and toughness.
We recommend that this tempering range be avoided.

-taken from crucible steels info
on 154cm steel
 
You might do ok with cutting on that knife. If you try to pry or pound that knife. It will mostly snap. I am trusting less and less on Gerber's quality these days. For 70, it's avg. I'd shop around though.
 
You might do ok with cutting on that knife. If you try to pry or pound that knife. It will mostly snap. I am trusting less and less on Gerber's quality these days. For 70, it's avg. I'd shop around though.

Yes, if one were to pry or pound with that skinner, it just might snap.

That said, crowbars and hammers aren't good skinners.
 
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