Gerber MKII Help

North Shore

North Shore

Joined
Jun 28, 2016
Messages
447
This knife was my uncle's service knife and has a lot of sentimental value to the family. I wish to preserve it and I am leery of the build up of bluish-green residue on the sheath snap and blade. Could someone let me know how best to clean/preserve it as well as let me know what that stuff is and why its there? I know this knife was a PX/BX store purchase as I have letters referencing the knife it did see action in Vietnam.

24o9754.jpg

vpgvhe.jpg

24l6laa.jpg

2zrhvv6.jpg
 
After doing some research I believe that the bluing was applied by my uncle in the field, after seeing an advertisement with a bluing solution as an upcharge. I have since found this http://militarycarryknives.com/Accessories.htm

Would anyone be able to at least tell me the long term effects of leaving the knife as is? I would at least like to try and clean up the sheath snap.
 
If it was my knife, I would rinse the blade under hot water and then lightly oil it.....the sheath snap I would clean with a tooth brush.....maybe use saddle soap on the whole thing and then some mink oil on the leather.

PS - I am sure smarter folks here will chime in on what to do.... :D
 
Cold blue - done poorly. The blue residue is nitrate salts. You need to get rid of them. You can get rid of the salts on the knife by boiling it, and it won't hurt the knife. Put it in boiling water for 15-20 minutes, bring it out, it will dry fast, so then soak it in WD 40. The WD 40 will displace the water and finish the neutralization of the salts. This is what a gunsmith would do if bluing parts.

The problem is that they have impregnated the leather since the knife was kept there. You can't get them out of the leather. You could try boiling the leather, I'm not sure what effect that would have, but at a minimum, you'd have to recondition it. Most leather has some acid in it due to the tanning process. That's why it's a bad idea to store metal blades in leather sheaths.

The green around the snaps is verdigris, which is the acid in the leather attacking the metal in the snaps. You can get rid of this by using a toothbrush with a little baking soda and water. It takes a fairly long time for verdigris to act, but as long as the metal and leather are in contact it will. Be prepared to clean this up every couple years.

Last, that knife never "saw action". The sheath shows no wear as would be common for a knife in the field. No evidence of being worn at all. I'm not saying it wasn't in Vietnam, but if it was it sat out the whole time in a foot locker.
 
The greenish residue on the blade and the snap is verdigris, most likely caused by tanning acids in the leather sheath.

For the blade, take a warm damp cloth and wipe off the verdigris, then apply a light coat of mineral oil. Store the knife outside the sheath.

The blade is L6 Tool Steel and it was blued (which was common to do).

For the sheath, use a toothpick to gently scrape the verdigris from around the snap and wipe with a warm, damp cloth and pat it dry with clean paper towels. Other than that, I recommend leaving the sheath as is. I would NOT use saddle soap or mink oil.

That is a rare and valuable Mark II.
 
Thanks for the reply eisman, it is here nor there whether the cold bluing was done poorly or not, and for your last statement it's pure bullshit and your post could have gone without. You know nothing of the knife's history or the soldier it belonged to. Would you prefer it had an ace of spades scratched into the leather? I do regret immediately sharing any kind personal sentiment in a forum post and should have kept it pure and simple as a preservation measure request thread.
 
Could be nitrate salts on the blade as eisman thinks, but I still would NOT boil the knife. Wipe it down and oil it. That is, if you want to retain its value.
 
MerryMadMonk that is good advice and I will head both yours and eisman's advice and make the best decision it's got more sentimental value than anything.
 
First, I salute your uncle for his service to his country. From one vet to another.

Second, I'd take AL's advice. I don't think I'd boil anything. No way I'd take a chance on messing up a family heirloom. Let us know what you try.

Third, Let's all keep to the question and leave the unfounded comments out of the thread.
 
Personally i would use Obenaufs on the sheath so it doesn't crack. A light coat of the oil or paste would preserve it and once it dries it shouldn't change the color. If you're worried about monetary value then of course leave everything original. I just think it would be a shame to let that sheath possibly dry up and crack. Also i wouldn't store the knife in the sheath. It's best to keep them separate until you actually use it. Clean and oil the blade and store it out of the sheath.
 
I would oil the blade lightly.
I would not store the blade in the sheath. You can make a cardboard cover for the blade out of light cardboard, something about the weight of a cereal box.
If I were not planning to sell the knife, I would clean the sheath and put something like Obenaufs on it to help preserve it and keep it from cracking.
That is a great family heirloom. I have my dad's KaBar from when he was in the Navy during the Korean war.
 
One other thought - the guys on the sheath making sub-forum might be your best source of advice on the sheath. They work with leather all the time so they know what will work and what to avoid.
 
I've cleaned up worse sheaths with saddle soap. It's designed for leather. I'd use a toothbrush around the snaps as suggested.

I have used SnoSeal and Renaissance wax on sheaths, but for this would recommend Renaissance wax.

To protect the blade, I've used mineral oil and Renaissance wax both are good.

The owner of the American Military Edged Weaponry Museum in Intercourse PA uses Butcher's bowling alley wax on both sheaths and knives. He's got a lot of carbon steel w/o visible rust.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top