Gerber Paul Knifes - Takedown

TripleF100

TripleF100

Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
195
I have two of these great EDCs . . . one from the early 70s and another from the 80s (could be 90s). Anyway they are getting harder to open but I'm a little afraid to try to take it apart. Has anyone got experience taking one of these apart (and maybe more importantly putting it back together again! )
 
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I'd not take it apart, unless it's already coming apart. The axial lock mechanism is complex (see the patent drawings in 2nd link below), and putting it back together and getting the friction set right for opening/closing is temperamental, after which it needs to be loctited after adjusting to hold the correct adjustment and prevent it from coming apart again. It's DOABLE, but there's a real risk of it never being the same again after disassembly & reassembly. I have a few of the original Paul Knives (2P, 2PW, 2PM) from Gerber, as well as the later Series II, Model 2 version introduced in the '90s and later, smaller versions from Lone Wolf. I 'tinkered' with the lock on a couple of my later Series II, Model 2 versions; but in retrospect, I consider myself lucky I was able to get it back together and keep it functional after doing so.

http://www.dougritter.com/Paul_Poehlmann.htm
http://www.dougritter.com/pp/pic11348.htm

If the lock on yours is only a bit stiff, I'd instead focus on perhaps flushing it out with WD-40 or similar while exercising the pivot & lock button, just to eliminate or reduce the possibility of dirt/grit or old gummy oil making the lock sticky. I'd not attempt taking it apart unless the opposite were happening, with the lock getting excessively loose or working itself apart altogether.


David
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
I'd not take it apart, unless it's already coming apart. The axial lock mechanism is complex (see the patent drawings in 2nd link below), and putting it back together and getting the friction set right for opening/closing is temperamental, after which it needs to be loctited after adjusting to hold the correct adjustment and prevent it from coming apart again. It's DOABLE, but there's a real risk of it never being the same again after disassembly & reassembly. I have a few of the original Paul Knives (2P, 2PW, 2PM) from Gerber, as well as the later Series II, Model 2 version introduced in the '90s and later, smaller versions from Lone Wolf. I 'tinkered' with the lock on a couple of my later Series II, Model 2 versions; but in retrospect, I consider myself lucky I was able to get it back together and keep it functional after doing so.

http://www.dougritter.com/Paul_Poehlmann.htm
http://www.dougritter.com/pp/pic11348.htm

If the lock on yours is only a bit stiff, I'd instead focus on perhaps flushing it out with WD-40 or similar while exercising the pivot & lock button, just to eliminate or reduce the possibility of dirt/grit or old gummy oil making the lock sticky. I'd not attempt taking it apart unless the opposite were happening, with the lock getting excessively loose or working itself apart altogether.


David
Click to expand...

Thanks David! Looking at the patent I'm certain you are right! I'm not all that handy anyway!! Both knives are really just a little bit stiff so I'll follow your suggestions. I am a little concerned about the WD-40 though. In my experience that stuff gets sticky if not use frequently. Actually my experience was only with one knife so maybe I'll try it with one of these and see how it goes.

I was not very impressed with the quality control of the Lonewolf versions though I did get one. Oddly their quality just wasn't up to the Gerber quality. But I love the axil lock mechanism! I wish someone like Chris Reeves would put one out! That would be freaking awesome!

Anyway I really appreciate the information and suggestions.
 
TripleF100 said:
Thanks David! Looking at the patent I'm certain you are right! I'm not all that handy anyway!! Both knives are really just a little bit stiff so I'll follow your suggestions. I am a little concerned about the WD-40 though. In my experience that stuff gets sticky if not use frequently. Actually my experience was only with one knife so maybe I'll try it with one of these and see how it goes.

I was not very impressed with the quality control of the Lonewolf versions though I did get one. Oddly their quality just wasn't up to the Gerber quality. But I love the axil lock mechanism! I wish someone like Chris Reeves would put one out! That would be freaking awesome!

Anyway I really appreciate the information and suggestions.
Click to expand...

If concerned about the WD-40, you could also wash the knife in water & liquid dish detergent (Dawn, etc), while exercising the pivot & lock button. Rinse it all out in HOT water, and that'll help evaporate off any residual moisture afterward. I've often followed a WD-40 flushing with that treatment anyway. Flushing the joint & lock with a little isopropyl alcohol after that would pretty much displace any moisture that might otherwise be left inside the mechanism. All the parts inside these knives are stainless I believe, so there shouldn't be much worry about a little temporary moisture in cleaning them.


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
If concerned about the WD-40, you could also wash the knife in water & liquid dish detergent (Dawn, etc), while exercising the pivot & lock button. Rinse it all out in HOT water, and that'll help evaporate off any residual moisture afterward. I've often followed a WD-40 flushing with that treatment anyway. Flushing the joint & lock with a little isopropyl alcohol after that would pretty much displace any moisture that might otherwise be left inside the mechanism. All the parts inside these knives are stainless I believe, so there shouldn't be much worry about a little temporary moisture in cleaning them.


David
Click to expand...

Makes sense! Any suggestion as to a lube. I was think of a drop of some Chris Reeve's lube. Very light.
 
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