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Gerber's latest incarnation of the military/tactical survival knife has taken its evolution to another level. Paring down each element of the design to provide the essential functions without any excess bulk has resulted in a tool that works with you and remains totally reliable.
The Blade and Handle Geometry:
Most knife specifications have a basic description of the blade geometry, but in this section I will be taking a more detailed look at geometry and balance.
Using a set of gauges and precision measuring equipment including a Vernier protractor, callipers, fixed radius gauges and the unique Arc Master adjustable radius gauge (the one that looks like a crossbow).
These measurements have been tabulated and are presented along with a few reference blades (8" Chef's Knife, 5.5" Santoku and the popular Fällkniven F1).
Key aspects such as the primary bevel angle, grind type, blade depth, blade thickness, length, weight are detailed, along with balance information.
The 'Balance relative to the front of the handle' tells you if the knife will feel front heavy, or if the weight is in your hand (a positive value means the weight is forward of the front of the handle). The 'Balance relative to the centre of the handle' indicates how close to a 'neutral balance' the knife has in the hand.
In the case of full convex grinds the approximate centre of the grind is used for the primary bevel angle estimate.
The blade is made from 420HC steel.
Explained by the Maker:
The reasons for certain design choices may not be clear when simply looking at an object, so this section is intended to give an insight into the thinking behind a design by speaking to the designer themselves.
Unfortunately I cant always get time with the designer so will use this section to include relevant information about the knife and its designer.
The Strongarm is the result of an evolution of Gerber's survival knives which I can trace back through several models. In this section I'd like to share a personal perspective of the evolution that has lead to the Strongarm...
For this section, please go to the Exclusive Content at Tactical Reviews , but remember to return to this forum to discuss the review.
A few more details:
Both the plain edge and part-serrated version were provided for review, hence the two boxes.
A cardboard insert keep the knife in place and prevents the striker pommel breaking through the outer box.
Fresh out of the box, and as well as the sheathed knife there is the PALS webbing clip, a horizontal belt loop adapter and the instructions.
It is immediately obvious how much more streamlined Gerber have made the Strongarm compared to earlier knives in the line.
The moulded plastic sheath is suspended by a webbing hanger. For those sharp eyed readers you might notice that only a single press-stud is used for the hanger loop on the sheath, but even if this were to become un-popped, it cannot come out of the sheath while the knife is in the sheath.
These are the parts of the sheath hanger/belt loop.
To replace the belt loop, lay out the hanger strap as shown. (The cross piece is a knife retention strap for added security)
Fit the belt loop in place with the single press-stud on the underneath.
Close the belt loop with its two press-studs.
Then lay the hanger strap over the top and secure the two press-studs.
Taking the hanger off for clarity, here we are looking at the moulded sheath's PALS fixing.
Once in place over the PALS webbing you slide the locking bar through the loops to attach it.
The PALS fixing can also be used to fit the horizontal belt loops.
Despite the blade being stainless steel, and having a black ceramic coating the Strongarm arrived with an oiled blade.
Each knife has a serial number and "Made in USA Portland, OR" proudly inscribed on the blade.
The ceramic coating seems to have a slight non-stick effect as the oil beads up on it.
You might also note that the length of the serrations is less than one third of the blade's cutting edge.
The grind provides a powerful and strong point to the knife.
Despite the grip looking quite flat when in the sheath, you can see there is a definite palm swell.
The full tang protrudes from the handle providing a lanyard hole and glass breaking point.
There is a rubber over-mould on the glass-filled nylon handle which has a diamond-shaped raised grip pattern.
Keeping the blade strength to the maximum the plunge line is a smooth curve transitioning from cutting edge to ricasso.
Looking at how the cutting edge terminates for the plain edge version. I shall probably be adding a sharpening choil myself to this one.
As you would expect, when sheathed there is no visible difference between the plain and part-serrated versions.
Let's have a quick look over the difference between them.
Starting with a simple side-by-side.
Of course, the blades are made from exactly the same blade blank.
Having that part-serrated edge always seems to make that version look as if it has more 'belly' near the front of the blade. This is because the serrations have to be cut quite deeply into the blade due to being a single bevel grind.
Now we have had a good look over the Strongarm, it is time for that PALS attachment. Thanks to the secure retention system in the sheath, the knife can be happily mounted tip up or down.
When PALS mounting you remove the belt loop and use the hanger strap to keep the handle from flapping. This hanger strap has one press-stud to secure it to the webbing and the rest of the strap needs to be tucked out of the way.
The plastic sheath fits into the PALS webbing like this.
A very neat PALS compatible system and far more compact than the LMF II or Prodigy.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author's Statement for Transparency and Disclosure
The test sample/s featured in this article have been provided for technical testing and review by the manufacturer. Test samples are retained by the reviewer following publication of the completed review for the purposes of long term testing and product comparisons.
All output figures and test results published in this review are the sole work of the reviewer, and are carried out independently and without bias. Test results are reported as found, with no embellishments or alteration. Though best endeavours are made to maintain the accuracy of test equipment, the accuracy of these results is not guaranteed and is subject to the test equipment functioning correctly.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Author's Statement for Transparency and Disclosure
The test sample/s featured in this article have been provided for technical testing and review by the manufacturer. Test samples are retained by the reviewer following publication of the completed review for the purposes of long term testing and product comparisons.
All output figures and test results published in this review are the sole work of the reviewer, and are carried out independently and without bias. Test results are reported as found, with no embellishments or alteration. Though best endeavours are made to maintain the accuracy of test equipment, the accuracy of these results is not guaranteed and is subject to the test equipment functioning correctly.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Blade and Handle Geometry:
Most knife specifications have a basic description of the blade geometry, but in this section I will be taking a more detailed look at geometry and balance.
Using a set of gauges and precision measuring equipment including a Vernier protractor, callipers, fixed radius gauges and the unique Arc Master adjustable radius gauge (the one that looks like a crossbow).
These measurements have been tabulated and are presented along with a few reference blades (8" Chef's Knife, 5.5" Santoku and the popular Fällkniven F1).
Key aspects such as the primary bevel angle, grind type, blade depth, blade thickness, length, weight are detailed, along with balance information.
The 'Balance relative to the front of the handle' tells you if the knife will feel front heavy, or if the weight is in your hand (a positive value means the weight is forward of the front of the handle). The 'Balance relative to the centre of the handle' indicates how close to a 'neutral balance' the knife has in the hand.
In the case of full convex grinds the approximate centre of the grind is used for the primary bevel angle estimate.
The blade is made from 420HC steel.
Explained by the Maker:
The reasons for certain design choices may not be clear when simply looking at an object, so this section is intended to give an insight into the thinking behind a design by speaking to the designer themselves.
Unfortunately I cant always get time with the designer so will use this section to include relevant information about the knife and its designer.
The Strongarm is the result of an evolution of Gerber's survival knives which I can trace back through several models. In this section I'd like to share a personal perspective of the evolution that has lead to the Strongarm...
For this section, please go to the Exclusive Content at Tactical Reviews , but remember to return to this forum to discuss the review.
A few more details:
Both the plain edge and part-serrated version were provided for review, hence the two boxes.
A cardboard insert keep the knife in place and prevents the striker pommel breaking through the outer box.
Fresh out of the box, and as well as the sheathed knife there is the PALS webbing clip, a horizontal belt loop adapter and the instructions.
It is immediately obvious how much more streamlined Gerber have made the Strongarm compared to earlier knives in the line.
The moulded plastic sheath is suspended by a webbing hanger. For those sharp eyed readers you might notice that only a single press-stud is used for the hanger loop on the sheath, but even if this were to become un-popped, it cannot come out of the sheath while the knife is in the sheath.
These are the parts of the sheath hanger/belt loop.
To replace the belt loop, lay out the hanger strap as shown. (The cross piece is a knife retention strap for added security)
Fit the belt loop in place with the single press-stud on the underneath.
Close the belt loop with its two press-studs.
Then lay the hanger strap over the top and secure the two press-studs.
Taking the hanger off for clarity, here we are looking at the moulded sheath's PALS fixing.
Once in place over the PALS webbing you slide the locking bar through the loops to attach it.
The PALS fixing can also be used to fit the horizontal belt loops.
Despite the blade being stainless steel, and having a black ceramic coating the Strongarm arrived with an oiled blade.
Each knife has a serial number and "Made in USA Portland, OR" proudly inscribed on the blade.
The ceramic coating seems to have a slight non-stick effect as the oil beads up on it.
You might also note that the length of the serrations is less than one third of the blade's cutting edge.
The grind provides a powerful and strong point to the knife.
Despite the grip looking quite flat when in the sheath, you can see there is a definite palm swell.
The full tang protrudes from the handle providing a lanyard hole and glass breaking point.
There is a rubber over-mould on the glass-filled nylon handle which has a diamond-shaped raised grip pattern.
Keeping the blade strength to the maximum the plunge line is a smooth curve transitioning from cutting edge to ricasso.
Looking at how the cutting edge terminates for the plain edge version. I shall probably be adding a sharpening choil myself to this one.
As you would expect, when sheathed there is no visible difference between the plain and part-serrated versions.
Let's have a quick look over the difference between them.
Starting with a simple side-by-side.
Of course, the blades are made from exactly the same blade blank.
Having that part-serrated edge always seems to make that version look as if it has more 'belly' near the front of the blade. This is because the serrations have to be cut quite deeply into the blade due to being a single bevel grind.
Now we have had a good look over the Strongarm, it is time for that PALS attachment. Thanks to the secure retention system in the sheath, the knife can be happily mounted tip up or down.
When PALS mounting you remove the belt loop and use the hanger strap to keep the handle from flapping. This hanger strap has one press-stud to secure it to the webbing and the rest of the strap needs to be tucked out of the way.
The plastic sheath fits into the PALS webbing like this.
A very neat PALS compatible system and far more compact than the LMF II or Prodigy.
