Get a clamped sharpening tool?

R

RipD

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Dec 10, 2014
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I currently have an EdgePro. It works well and does what it's supposed to. The more I get into sharpening the more I see value of it's simplicity and also the limitations. Not having a clamp is gives a lot more flexibility and also makes it challenging for some blade grinds. More challenging to get a specific angle.

Do clamped systems work well with all blade grinds? Do they align the blade edge at 90 degrees to the vertical post of the sharpener, or does it vary with the blade shape?

I see 4 options for clamped sharpeners: Wicked Edge, KME, TSProf, and ViperSharp. I'm not considering the Lansky.
  • Wicked edge: Looks good, seems solid, appears to set angles easily. Expensive, esp for additional stones.
  • KME: Well regarded. There seem to be a lot of complaints about the clamp.
  • TSProf: Also looks good. Can get expensive. It seems to have a nice protractor attachment. Does that work as well as it should? And why to they also sell angle cubes if the protractor works? This uses EP stones, which is a big plus since I have an EP.
  • ViperSharp: Newer and not much info. Saw one at the show. Looks good. Not sure if there's any advantage over the KME.
Holding different blade shapes (hollow, saber, etc.) equally well is important. Getting the angle right quickly and reliably is also important.
 
RipD said:
I currently have an EdgePro. It works well and does what it's supposed to. The more I get into sharpening the more I see value of it's simplicity and also the limitations. Not having a clamp is gives a lot more flexibility and also makes it challenging for some blade grinds. More challenging to get a specific angle.

Do clamped systems work well with all blade grinds? Do they align the blade edge at 90 degrees to the vertical post of the sharpener, or does it vary with the blade shape?

I see 4 options for clamped sharpeners: Wicked Edge, KME, TSProf, and ViperSharp. I'm not considering the Lansky.
  • Wicked edge: Looks good, seems solid, appears to set angles easily. Expensive, esp for additional stones.
  • KME: Well regarded. There seem to be a lot of complaints about the clamp.
  • TSProf: Also looks good. Can get expensive. It seems to have a nice protractor attachment. Does that work as well as it should? And why to they also sell angle cubes if the protractor works? This uses EP stones, which is a big plus since I have an EP.
  • ViperSharp: Newer and not much info. Saw one at the show. Looks good. Not sure if there's any advantage over the KME.
Holding different blade shapes (hollow, saber, etc.) equally well is important. Getting the angle right quickly and reliably is also important.
Click to expand...

I say, stick with your Edge Pro... all sharpeners have their "challenges"... you'll just be learning a new set of things to overcome. ;)
 
Personally I would get the Lansky Turn box with diamonds ($20) or a Sharpmaker and the diamond rods (around $100) so you have a more versitile setup for easy touch ups and something that works good on recurves. The Sharpmaker you have more stone options but the Lansky you can drill holes in the included box or a piece of wood at whatever angle you want (protractor helps).

Other option is go freehand and buy guides if you want. I agree with the above poster when they mentioned each system has their limitations you have to learn to overcome, you have a good sharpenings system already so I would try to complement it personally than replace it.
 
I find that a BIG magnet under the table of my Apex helps a lot with keeping knives in place while sharpening. I use a 1/4" thick 1/2"x1" 50 ish power, I forget the correct terminology, neodymium myself.
 
Thanks guys. I have several neo magnets under the table. That helps. I have stop collar. I made the most common mods to my EP.

You can make a lot of stupid mistakes with EP, and I do. Was also hoping to get something more idiot proof. Maybe it doesn't exist, except for going to stones with angle wedges. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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I made the switch from Edge Pro to WIcked Edge Pro early this year. It made a big difference for me.

I might dig up a detailed post I made about this in an older thread. But that‘s a todo for tomorrow, because I‘m typing on my phone now and it‘s already past midnight here.
 
RipD said:
hoping to get something more
Click to expand...
What size blade lengths ?
It appears that getting set up for WE for small blades can run you some considerable + $
As I understand it clamping full flat ground blades can challenge the clamp mobiles where as the saber ground and or some knives with parallel sides at the spine do well with clamps . . . where as those are a bit tricky on the EP. I've never had a WE but I keep eyeing them.

Personally I am getting fantastically sharp edges off the EP but I can see the attraction of a clamped blade set up.
 
Way back when I was deciding on a sharpening system (there were less mainstream options then) I quickly narrowed my list to the Wicked Edge, KME, and Edge Pro.

As attractive as the WE was, it was quickly scratched off the list for cost. It's a ridiculous amount of money for a hobby sharpener. Depending on the setup and additions you choose, you could buy powered sanders and grinders cheaper.

The Edge Pro was very attractive. The foremost pro for it was the quick flipping from side to side. I really liked that aspect. I didn't like that it bounced around some (because I don't leave my gear set up) or that there was still some play (might also be a plus depending on how you look at it).

The KME can be a bit tedious at times, pulling the rod out flipping the blade, repeat. But really only when you get down to those final single-side strokes. As to blade grind compatibility with the KME, I rarely have issues with any type. But, sometimes, there are a few knives that can be troublesome. The first fix is a roll of fabric-type tape like hockey tape. A little strip of that will cure most problems. The next is the Pen Jaws for the small and super skinny blades. But, like I said, the majority of blades do't require anything, and I sharpen a lot of Spyderco full flat grind that people often say are troublesome. You just need to get a good tight pinch on the jaws while tightening them down.

I love my KME. It has sharpened a lot of knives and re-profiled and experimented and so on. A huge boost in confidence because it was steady and repeatable. Hell, you can take it off the base (which you should buy if you get one) and quite literally sharpening a knife in your lounge chair watching TV.

Not at all knocking any other system, they all have their pros and cons but for me the KME won out in the selection process and I am very glad it did.

I'm going back to free handing and the KME helped me do that. I learned a lot with it and I know I have it when I need it.
 
Wowbagger said:
What size blade lengths ?
It appears that getting set up for WE for small blades can run you some considerable + $
As I understand it clamping full flat ground blades can challenge the clamp mobiles where as the saber ground and or some knives with parallel sides at the spine do well with clamps . . . where as those are a bit tricky on the EP. I've never had a WE but I keep eyeing them.

Personally I am getting fantastically sharp edges off the EP but I can see the attraction of a clamped blade set up.
Click to expand...
All over the map. 2" to 4" for folders, 4" to 10"+ for kitchen. I have no issue getting knives as sharp as I want. I prefer Shapton glass stones, but even the EP stones work fine.
 
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Read the other thread - good info. Sould have looked harder as it answers most of my questions. steff27 describes the WE as taking meeting the requirements I have the EP isn't meeting. Doesn't mean there aren't other issues. Biggest hurdle for WE may be the cost.

One EP user mentioned he doesn't strop. I didn't used to. Difference in sharpness off the sharpener is dramatic. Not as much for stones over 8K. I use balsa or basswood strops usually with 6 micron diamond paste. I don't think it does anything for edge retention. Also have found a hard strop will bring and edge back from not cutting printer paper to easily cutting newsprint and shaving hair. This may be inversely proportional to carbides or other hard stuff in the steel - not sure yet. I can go a looooog time on some steels using a stop and not hitting them with a stone.

Another option I didn't mention is a Tormek or other spinning wheel + strop. This is obviously a very different way to go, different edges, different skills required. Also interesting how you apply different grits to the wheel. The T-4 can be found for < $500. The WEN and others are much less expensive. Seems to do well getting angles where you want them quickly. Guessing you can't easily get to a polished edge.
 
RipD said:
Another option I didn't mention is a Tormek or other spinning wheel + strop. This is obviously a very different way to go, different edges, different skills required. Also interesting how you apply different grits to the wheel. The T-4 can be found for < $500. The WEN and others are much less expensive. Seems to do well getting angles where you want them quickly. Guessing you can't easily get to a polished edge.
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Unless you have woodturning or other tools to sharpen (or your needs are few)... my .02... stick with a sharpener designed to sharpen knives. The Tormek will sharpen knives, but not to the level you can get with other sharpeners, and it comes with a whole new set of problems/issues to solve. :eek:
 
I sharpen freehand but occasionally use an angle guide (an ancient BuckMaster, others are available). Works fine for me, andit's a lot less complicated and less expensive than all the jigs.
 
Bob6794 said:
Personally I would get the Lansky Turn box with diamonds ($20) or a Sharpmaker and the diamond rods (around $100) so you have a more versitile setup for easy touch ups and something that works good on recurves. The Sharpmaker you have more stone options but the Lansky you can drill holes in the included box or a piece of wood at whatever angle you want (protractor helps).

Other option is go freehand and buy guides if you want. I agree with the above poster when they mentioned each system has their limitations you have to learn to overcome, you have a good sharpenings system already so I would try to complement it personally than replace it.
Click to expand...
Forgot to reply to this earlier. I have a Sharpmaker. Even with diamond rods it's ok for keeping things sharp. Getting a dull knife sharp in a tedious process with it. I also re-re-profile edges all the time on my EP. It would take about 3 years on an Sharpmaker.
 
I know there is a lot of support for the clamp systems like EP and the like, and these systems do work very very well. They never were for me, and I suppose a big part of that reason is freehand sharpening was taught to me at a very young age (both grandfathers saw I was interested in them sharpening their knives, so they taught me). But freehand can have a decent learning curve, with maybe the biggest factor being the ability to hold an angle throughout the process.

If you haven’t already, you might take a look at the “Razor Edge Systems” clamp on guides. They have 2 sizes, but I use the small one for 95% of the time.

I like these because (just my reasons, and the guided systems have some of the same benefits):
1. The angle is constant making for a perfect edge cosmetically
2. Because the angle is not going to change, it is easy to detect when you haven’t raised a burr, and the reason it hasn’t been raised yet cannot be because of an accidental angle change, no worries about “am I not apexing because of technique?” It simply needs more sharpening.
3. You can use ANY stone available to you.
4. The angle can be changed by positioning the clamps further in or out on the blade
5. Helps to build that muscle memory for actual freehand sharpening.
6. Inexpensive

Cons I have noticed:
1. The angle is limited. Usually, regardless if the knife, you can do between 12 and 17 degrees per side. But those angles are quite popular for edges. I usually do 15 per side on all knives. If wanting lower angles like 10 per side, I have an extra guide that I filed down the faces on it, making for a lower angle.
2. Especially using diamond plates, the guide faces get worn. This can be mitigated with a layer of tape.
3. Takes some dexterity to clamp them on the blade.

I like using them quite well, especially when sharpening higher quality knives or new knives that come off my bench. I don’t know many that use them. Seems most do freehand (which I do on less expensive knives like chicago cutlery kitchen knives and the like), or they use a guided system like EP, WE what have you.
 
Stuart, Interesting. Will have to take a look. I was leaning toward going back to stones given that all the guided systems have tradeoffs. The one advantage they have over stones besides the constant angle is speed.
 
RipD said:
The one advantage they have over stones besides the constant angle is speed.
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i am so much faster (more efficient) with freehanding by now that it sometimes gives me the chuckles. The various guided systems were my gateway to slowly/cautiously leading me into freehanding.
 
I would have to disagree with the notion that systems are faster than bench stones. Obviously, I'm a fan of the KME system but it is in no way faster, and I would argue is actually lower, than my bench stones. I don't keep my system set up but even disregarding that, I find bench stones faster. You have more blade to stone contact, longer strokes, swapping stones is super quick, etc.
 
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