Getting a razor sharp edge?

Joined
Mar 14, 2016
Messages
13
So admittedly I am not the best at sharpening, but I figure with time it will get better. I can put an edge on my blade, but it's not very sharp. I was wondering if there are any methods to get my knife hair shaving sharp with the materials I have: Smith portable stone(300 grit course and 725 grit fine), 600 grit gator belt, and an 800 grit gator belt. Thanks!
 
Maybe after initial sharpening, if you stroke lightly on the 800 grit belt , then use a leather strop and honing compound. I found the strop and compound was the final key to getting my knives hair popping sharp.
 
I think it all starts with the correct geometry. Are you doing full flat grind, scandi, convex, hollow grind? What thickness is the blade at the ricasso? How wide is the blade? How thick is the edge before sharpening? What was the knife designed to do? Is it an EDC, hunter, camp/chopper, skinner?
 
I think it all starts with the correct geometry. Are you doing full flat grind, scandi, convex, hollow grind? What thickness is the blade at the ricasso? How wide is the blade? How thick is the edge before sharpening? What was the knife designed to do? Is it an EDC, hunter, camp/chopper, skinner?

This^^^
I made my second kitchen knife, used great steel with proper heat treat, but left too much meat before sharpening and was dissapointed with the edge. Even after sharpening and stropping. Still better than store bought, but not near as sharp as it should be.
 
If you cant feel a bur you havent set the edge yet. When you start with your course grit do you feel a bur on on side?
 
Are you running your high grit belts away from you with good light? You will be able to see the bur pop up on the edge. Polish that bur off and it will pop hair.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Another thing to remember is for the knife to truly cut well, the cutting edge needs to be as centered as possible. More strokes on one side or a slightly different angle will move the center line. It will still feel sharp, and will cut, but the difference even in cutting paper will be quite evident.

So edge geometry, I.E bevel height and thickness in relation to the base material thickness and insuring that it's centered will help make a very sharp and durable edge.


I also don't care for using very fine belts when sharpening. I personally use an x100 belt which is around 150 grit. This leaves a serrated edge, that when stropped, will cut easily and survive some hard wood chopping. I have a couple vids on my FB page that show edge performance. The one smaller knife I show in the video has chopped enough to go through a 2x4 and still cuts hair easily.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top