Getting back into recurve bows

[Street Samurai1978]

So I haven't shot a bow, recurve or otherwise in a good 7-8 years and was looking to get back into it. Before, I shot my grandfather's bow, a recurve with about 50# pull, don't really remember the length or brand. I've been looking at a few, both single piece and takedown and I've narrowed it down to one takedown and one single piece. Both are a hair over $200, which is the upper limit of my price range. On the takedown was a Martin Saber takedown with 55# pull. With the single piece, I was looking at the Greatree Deerslayer Classic, also 55# pull. I'll be doing both target shooting and will look to get back into bowhunting, both small and large game. And while I've had the opportunity to hold and fire both, I'm kinda torn. I've never fired a takedown before my test shots on the Saber, I'm just curious as to how they hold up long term. I do like that it can mount some rests and sights. And I just don't know enough about Greatree, other than they are a US based company that has their stuff made in China. The Deerslayer Classic shot well, as did the Saber. Anybody have any experience with either? Or can you recommend a decent recurve for around $200?

 

[Wing-Man]

I've had my eye on one of those PSE Kingfisher bows for awhile now, not the fishing kit, just the bow. Pretty cool though, good luck.

 

[Nathan L]

Let me start by saying that I am by no means a bow expert or an expert at anything else for that matter, but this is the bow that I have been shooting for a while now http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=2490X . I may not be the best bow but when I bought it I was just getting in to traditional bows and did not want to spend a lot of money if it turned out to be something I did not like. It shoots fine for me its as accurate as I am. Did not get a shot with it hunting this season but I think that it would work fine. Also mabey I should mention that if it was ever needed you can buy new limbs for it http://www.3riversarchery.com/samick+sage+recurve+limbs_i2492X_baseitem.html
Hope it helps
Nathan

 

[desmobob]

I was gifted a hand-me-down Hoyt Gold Medalist target bow, and it is the smoothest, finest-shooting recurve I've ever tried. It has the advantage of replaceable limbs (ILF system). The limbs that came with it are only 42 lbs., but I have a very long draw length so I'm probably getting more like 50 out of it. I've killed three deer with it, all pass-throughs. The bow is quite long and can be a challenge with close shots from the treestand, but in my experience, long=smooth. Older target bows like this are very high quality, accurate, and can be picked up for a reasonable amount. A little olive drab spray paint and some string silencers turn a target bow into a hunting bow!

3Rivers and Lancaster Archery get all my mail-order archery business. I don't think you could go wrong buying a TD recurve from 3Rivers, especially if you call and talk to one of the folks there. They'll help you make a good choice.

Stay sharp,
desmobob

 

[jonathan creason]

Check out the Samick Sage, I've heard a lot of good things about it. Probably want to get a good Fast Flight string for it though, from what I hear. Also, you might want to consider lowering your draw weight a tad, being over-bowed can cause a lot of form issues and target panic. The good thing about the Sage is you can get a set of limbs for about $70, so for the cost of one of those bows you can have essentially 2 bows.

 

[dartheo]

I've been shooting compound for about 8-9 years now. Just started into the trad world this year.

I picked up a Samick Sage #55. Definately a very good bow for the money. They can be had for about $130+.
Across all the forums I read, this was the top recommendation for an entry level bow that wont be outgrown quickly.

 

[bikermikearchery]

Martin makes a good bow. Good Choice.

 

[Hammer67]

I've owned several Martins (incl. a Savannah and a Mamba) - they are good bows for the money.

A well-built takedown should have no durability issues over a one piece. They do tend to be a bit heavier (or a lot heavier, depending on the model). 3-piece bows have obvious advantages for travel, and for being able to swap out limbs. But if you don't care about either of those things, I'd say put the additional money you'd likely spend on a 3-piece into a better one piece.

That said, to be honest, I would say that $200 just barely gets you into the market of "decent" trad bows. Try to shoot any bow you intend buy if at all possible - as with so many other things, what one person likes may not be the bow for you. And though I obviously know nothing about your fitness level, if you haven't shot in years, I would suggest thinking about a lower draw weight starting out. Proper form is so critical for accurate trad shooting, that it's better in my experience to start out light and work on proper form/release than to be working too hard to hold at full draw. You'll just end up frustrated.

Good luck with it all, and welcome to the trad side. It's definitely addictive.

 

[Killinumsoftly]

Most places don't allow you to hunt with a bow under a 50lb draw weight so keep that in mind when getting one if you plan to hunt with it. Also regardless of your draw length, if the limbs are 42lbs then that is at the maximum pull it doesn't get higher the more you pull it back so don't get a 45lb bow and think if you pull it really hard it'll be 50lb. Not how it works. The reason being you don't want to only wound animals and they found 50lbs to be the lowest possible weight to allow most people to hunt and still make kill shots. As for a 42lb passing threw deer, I'd have to see that because I've seen top end 70lb compounds not even get near the fletching so that would be something to see for sure. I'd go with a Hoyt, of you have an archery store around you a lot of times you can get really nice stuff used. One of my recurves I bought used about 6 years ago and it's still great. I also like takedowns better because I like the ability to take them apart to hike out to an area whet I plan to camp and hunt. Just my input

 

[desmobob]

regardless of your draw length, if the limbs are 42lbs then that is at the maximum pull it doesn't get higher the more you pull it back so don't get a 45lb bow and think if you pull it really hard it'll be 50lb. Not how it works.

Ummm... yes, it is. Most traditional bows gain 2-3lbs. of draw weight for each additional inch of draw length. (Their rated draw weight is at a standard 28" draw.) That's common knowlege.

As for a 42lb passing threw deer, I'd have to see that because I've seen top end 70lb compounds not even get near the fletching so that would be something to see for sure.

I guess some people need to learn how to sharpen their broadheads, learn where to hit the animal, or work on their accuracy (and maybe read up on kinetic energy to see what their set-up is producing). ;-)

When I used to shoot a compound, I kept my Mathews Q2 set at a measured 52lbs. draw weight.... never a problem with pass-through shots.

At my 30.5" draw, my recurve bow shoots a 490gr. arrow/broadhead at about 180fps and has no problem with pass-throughs (three for three so far for me). I received the bow as a gift from two fly fishing buddies who are very serious traditional archers. The bow had been used to kill Blacktail Deer, a Mule Deer and several Javelina before it was passed to me. I've killed three Whitetails with it. When I finally get a nice custom recurve built for me, I'll pass the bow along to another new traditional archer.

Stay sharp,
desmobob

 

[Hammer67]

What desmobob said. A 42lb. (trad) bow is typically measured 42lb. @ 28". It will be +/- 2-3lbs. for every additional inch of draw gained or lost from 28." Thus, this same bow, will actually have 46-48lbs. for someone with a 30" draw.

Actually, in many states, the minimum legal draw weight for game up to deer-size is often 40 - 45lb. For larger game, like elk, the minimum is typically 50lbs.

It's not uncommon for a high-FOC arrow, with a sharp broadhead, and accurate placement to blow right through a deer when shot out of a 40-45lb. bow. The issue I've seen becoming more common is compound shooters using lighter and lighter arrow set-ups for hunting (to gain more distance) - set-ups that are really only appropriate for target shooting. This, combined with unnecessarily complicated (and faulty) gadgetry like mechanical broadheads, can easily lead to what you say you've witnessed with a 70lb compound bow. Poundage and speed are not the only factors in a clean kill (but they sure help sell a lot of bows...)

 

[Street Samurai1978]

I've actually bought a bow and sized my arrows and heads. I settled on a Bear Super Kodiak, 55# at 28". I'm shooting Gold Tip Traditionals, 5575, with 250gr. VPA Terminator broadheads. I've used 250gr. target heads with minimal porposing of fishtailing, getting them within a few inches of each other. I'm getting real good shelf clearance with both. I got a pig last week at my sister's place near Brooksville, busted straight through, impaling a tree. I was about 15-20 feet away. Ended up having to chop the head out. My sister's husband said the pigs in their area area aren't safe to eat at any temperature. Guess they all have trich or something else. And that was my first kill in almost a decade, good to get back out, even if the Brooksville area is rather bland place to hunt.

 

[desmobob]

I've actually bought a bow and sized my arrows and heads. I settled on a Bear Super Kodiak, 55# at 28". I'm shooting Gold Tip Traditionals, 5575, with 250gr. VPA Terminator broadheads. I've used 250gr. target heads with minimal porposing of fishtailing, getting them within a few inches of each other. I'm getting real good shelf clearance with both. I got a pig last week at my sister's place near Brooksville, busted straight through, impaling a tree. I was about 15-20 feet away. Ended up having to chop the head out. My sister's husband said the pigs in their area area aren't safe to eat at any temperature. Guess they all have trich or something else. And that was my first kill in almost a decade, good to get back out, even if the Brooksville area is rather bland place to hunt.

Congratulations on the new bow and scoring on the pig!

I shoot those same Gold Tip Traditionals (GREAT arrows!) with the classic two-blade, cut-on-contact Zwickey Delta 170gr. broadheads. Big medicine, but not as big as those Terminators! They look very nice, and I'll bet they're easier to get flying right compared to the big, flat, planing Deltas.

I had a bunch of older Bear recurves but didn't shoot them much... my long draw length causes some serious stacking with them and I couldn't shoot them very accurately. The longer Bear Polar is my favorite of them. It's one of the older "hybrid" semi-recurve models; sort of a cross between a longbow and a recurve with a 66" length and slim longbow-type riser.

Good hunting,
desmobob

 

[Codger_64]

I've killed whitetail with a 35-40# bow. A pass-though is dramatic, but absolutely not required for a clean kill. A keen broadhead and shot placement is required. If you have dull broadheads or can't put the shot where it belongs, you really don't need to be hunting large game, IMHO. Tennessee has done away with their minimum bow weight for large game. Arkansas is 40#.