Getting epoxy too hot while grinding pins

Joined
Mar 18, 1999
Messages
2,112
This has come up more than once and I thought that I would give a little tip that may help.

What the primary problem is that a 3/32 pin will not fit in a hole drilled with a 3/32 drill bit. This applies to any other pin size. What happens is that when the pin doesn't fit one of two things are "usually" done to "fix" the problem. Either the hole is reamed repeatedly or the pin is sanded. Doing either one of these results in a poor fit, hence too much space between the hole and pin for the epoxy to get into. It doesn't look bad unless it is overheated.

To minimize this, use "slightly" oversize drill bits or a precision reamer. For example a 5/32 drill is .1562 whereas a #22 is .1570 which is a little oversize but sure does take the headache out of making the hole bigger. For other pin sizes I use metric drill bits which are a littler tighter than the next size up number or letter drill bits.

Doing this fixes two problems. It is a much better fix and it minimizes the problem of burned epoxy. Granted, if you get a pin too hot, you're going to burn something, whether it be the scale or epoxy. This just helps somewhat....

Craig
 
its too bad tim isnt here to tell you how lame that is...
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dont be given away all our secrets or we wont have anyone to sell knives to!!!!!!!!!!! LOL!!!! I will be tim while he is gone....only I could NEVER be that mean!!
 
ummmmmm, I put 3/32" pins thru 3/32" holes. I just spin the tip on 320 grit belt to make it pointy. then just lightly tap the pin thru.

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!

[This message has been edited by L6STEEL (edited 07-21-2000).]
 
Thats how I do it too, L6. The only times I have had problems is when using TIG rods for pin stock.
 
Hey, thats the way I did it on my first knife too! 'course I split the dymondwood in the process. Now, I turn down the pin stock in the drill press just a hair. First with a file to get it close and then with wet dry paper to make it just fit.

There's lots on my knives that might qualify as poor fit (less on each new one) but I don't think pin fit is one of them.



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Rob Ridley
Ranger Original Handcrafted Knives
Temporary Email; RangerOriginal@hotmail.com
 
The closer pin length fits the knife, there is less to grind off. Less grinding - less heat. Also grind a second and let cool off. Repeat until done.

BlacksmithRick@aol.com
 
Mr. Tichbourne has a very good point that I failed to mention, I just took it for granted that everyone used new belts for this. A dull belt really builds up heat. Very fine belts build up heat as well. (Can you say Trizact?)
This goes without saying. I just "assumed" this to be common knowledge.

I suppose the point that I am trying to make is that having a better fit minimizes the chance of having a really bad looking pin. Heat of course is the primary culprit. If the hole is "wallowed out" quite a bit from trying to repeatedly ream out the hole then you end up with quite a bit of epoxy surrounding the pin, that's all. This really looks bad on light coloured scales such as bone and some woods.


....sorry for the lame post Tom, uh Tim or whatever your name is!
smile.gif


 
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