getting into free hand sharpening

[VTguy17]

I've been practicing laying the sharpmaker stones flat and free hand sharpening. I'm getting the hang of it. I'd like to get some real stones to start sharpening with but don't really know where to start. I am considering getting the DMT bench and just getting a couple stones (coarse,fine,extra fine, ceramic) any suggestions on what I should pick up? Can I achieve the same results much cheaper with sandpaper and a mousepad or should I get real stones? What type of progressive systems do you guys use to work your way through the grits to get a perfect shaving edge? I need a place to start. Thank you!

 

[HeavyHanded]

I've been practicing laying the sharpmaker stones flat and free hand sharpening. I'm getting the hang of it. I'd like to get some real stones to start sharpening with but don't really know where to start. I am considering getting the DMT bench and just getting a couple stones (coarse,fine,extra fine, ceramic) any suggestions on what I should pick up? Can I achieve the same results much cheaper with sandpaper and a mousepad or should I get real stones? What type of progressive systems do you guys use to work your way through the grits to get a perfect shaving edge? I need a place to start. Thank you!

Will depend a bit on your budget. I make a sharpening block linked through my signature below that uses wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper and/or lapping films and ordinary copy paper. It makes a much flatter edge than you can get with wet/dry over a mousepad or even over a steel plate. Is pretty inexpensive and easily customized. My progression with it does 120 grit, 320, 600 or 800, then copy paper with honing compound. I sometimes go up to 1200 grit before the paper and honing compound.


I also have several sets of waterstones - 240, 800 or 1k, 4k or 6k. With my better waterstones I will sometimes go 1k to 8k, if working for cosmetics I will add a 2k or 4k between the 1 and 8. The waterstones are a discussion in itself because there are so many brands/types to choose from.

DMT benchstones are nice to have around. You can get by with the coarse and fine, but eventually you will want the entire lineup.

Keep in mind as you look into this that different manufacturers use different grit ratings:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/856708-The-Grand-Unified-Grit-Chart

 

[Spinny]

Can I achieve the same results much cheaper with sandpaper and a mousepad or should I get real stones?

Sandpaper and a mousepad if you want a convex edge....

Remember that freehand sharpening is 90% technique and 10% tools. Good technique with mediocre stones will achieve a better result than mediocre technique with expensive stones. Good technique is achieved one way: practice...lots and lots of practice.

I would recommend King Japanese Waterstones to start. Around $20 will get you a 250/1000 grit combination stone. And another $30 will get you a 6000 grit stone. Add a leather strop like the "Bark River Kit" KSF sells and that should keep you busy for years. Just add technique

 

[Megabassx7]

Honestly if I was just starting at free hand again I would of loved to have known about the washboard heavy handed created. You get a device to help you become better and is pretty much a ton of stones in a simple effective design. I don't own one but I can tell it would of helped me tremendously and saved alot of headaches

 

[awestib]

My current favourite set up (for kitchen knives) is the dotted DMT coarse stone. That's it. If I need a bit more refinement I use HeavyHanded's washboard with 2 sheets of paper and his compound or mother's mag on denim.

 

[OldNavy]

as said before, good technique & tons of practice.
with that out of the way, you mentioned wanting a :" perfect shaving edge" I toss out my suggestions.

Naniwa professional { chosera } 400 or 600
Bester { Imanishi } 1200
Suehiro Rika 5k

Naniwa Junpaku " Snow white " 8k
Kitayama { Imanishi } 8k

the last 2 I use as a set for final polishing, bouncing back & forth as to which one is last. You'll
have to work that out yourself, personal preference.

Have not done razors, but these are what I use on my Japanese Single Bevel knives, " White #2 carbon steel "
and they can take an insane edge

 

[awestib]

Sorry - shaving edge - I missed that. For that you should go and check out: Scienceofsharp.wordpress.com

 

[Chris "Anagarika"]

Sorry - shaving edge - I missed that. For that you should go and check out: Scienceofsharp.wordpress.com

A very good website indeed!

I shave with my knives, and finishing on DMT EEF , Spyderco UF and strop with 1 micron on WB works for me. Some says I have thick skin & thin hair, rather than the skill.