How To Getting my point across?

Joe58

Joe58

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Nov 11, 2002
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745E7D47-3E19-4028-B731-2EBEF1E72E71.jpeg i recently acquired an older 303 and as you can see in the photo, the main blade tip is kinda rounded off, to the point it isn’t very pointy. Lol.

I use a Sharpmaker, so in order for me to restore a better tip/point on the blade, should I work on it with the knife held level with respect to the Sharpmaker, with the knife blade at a 45 degree angle, tip higher than the butt of the knife, or vice versa, with the blade tip down at a 45 degree angle to the stones.

I’m asking as I seem to recall reading a thread once concerning the use of sticks, like a Sharpmaker, that the knife blade needs to be sharpened while keeping the knife at a certain angle with respect to the stones to avoid rounding the blade tip. But I don’t recall the specifics.

But I’m sure our experts here know the answer. If my post made sense.

Thanks! Joe
 
Why not just use a normal stone?

Should only take a couple minutes with a good stone and that soft Camillus steel.
 
Yes Fish . NO Buck factory made 301,303, 309 or 305 ever had a long pull. Now if someone says : Oh yah, I have one. Well, guess what you don't, you have something put together with a Schrade or Camillus blade. Buck only did nail nic's. Also remember Camillus made the other 300s a long time after Buck took over the four above. And most of those only had nics. Longs are usually stamped and nic's are cut.

In my world, some new knives came that rounded way and most used knives. I don't use the clip to stab or fine cut, I use sheepsfoot or pen. If you want a 302 'pointy' then be careful. I just about only use rods, I hold level to slightly butt down. With a rod most of your point rounding comes at the very end of your stroke, where you push the tip around the circumference of the rod.
Its hard to keep your stroke from not doing that as you give slight pressure against rod as you pull down.
Its just the penalty you pay for using rods. I am willing to live with it because if I am going to stab a griz or a human a little bit longer blade would be handy. I consider a 110 the very minimum.....but my zombie knife is a 440 119......300
 
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300Bucks said:
Sorry Fish NO Buck factory made 301,303, 309 or 305 ever had a long pull. Now if someone says : Oh yah, I have one. Well, guess what you don't, you have something put together with a Schrade or Camillus blade. Buck only did nail nic's. Also remember Camillus made the other 300s a long time after Buck took over the four above.

In my world, some new knives came that rounded way and most used knives. I don't use the clip to stab or fine cut, I use sheepsfoot or pen. If you want a 302 'pointy' then be careful. I just about only use rods, I hold level to slightly butt down. With a rod most of your point rounding comes at the very end of your stroke, where you push the tip around the circumference of the rod.
Its hard to keep your stroke from not doing that as you give slight pressure against rod as you pull down.
Its just the penalty you pay for using rods. I am willing to live with it because if I am going to stab a griz or a human a little bit longer blade would be handy. I consider a 110 the very minimum.....but my zombie knife is a 440 119......300
Click to expand...

I might be misreading this, but are saying that Buck won't do a SPA treatment on his knife?
 
NO my mistake for typing the first word Sorry, went back and changed it to Yes Fish. As far as I know Buck spa 's them all, unless they are worth a whole lot of dough. 300
 
The sharpmaker is my only sharpening system, which is why my steel choices are limited, but I can get a pretty good point. I usually hold the knife handle inward toward the middle (between the rods) and do small little up and down strokes. You might have to adjust your angle a little too, but you can usually get it...
 
I've got knives with a similar tip and I just use 'em.
I prefer a pointier tip to pierce different types of packaging I need to open, but most times it's not an issue.

I only live with it though because its easier than trying to fix or get it fixed, but since you can you should do it if it's a big deal to you.
 
It’s not really a big deal or anything, and certainly not an issue worthy of sending off for a spa. I guess what I was mostly after was when using a Sharpmaker, or sticks, how best to avoid rounding the tips on other blades.

And as far as using a regular stone, my father, who could sharpen anything on his stones and his old work boots, tried for about 40 years to get me to the point I wasn’t making it duller than when I started. I could never get the hang of it.

Hence the Sharpmaker. That works quite well. For me. :)

Appreciate the replies!
 
Lose the round or pointed rods. When your tip wraps over the rod, the tip is destroyed. Use a flat stone(s) and finish your edge leading sharpening stroke on a flat part of the stone(s). This can be done on a Sharpmaker. Just keep the tip on the flat when finishing the stroke.
 
tiguy7 said:
Lose the round or pointed rods. When your tip wraps over the rod, the tip is destroyed. Use a flat stone(s) and finish your edge leading sharpening stroke on a flat part of the stone(s). This can be done on a Sharpmaker. Just keep the tip on the flat when finishing the stroke.
Click to expand...

Tiguy is right on. Tip flat on the stone finishing the stroke.
 
300Bucks said:
NO my mistake for typing the first word Sorry, went back and changed it to Yes Fish. As far as I know Buck spa 's them all, unless they are worth a whole lot of dough. 300
Click to expand...
Sorry. :( I should have specified that none made by Buck in-house had long pulls.
 
What you could do is sharpen the blade as normal on the Sharpmaker. Then, remove the rod (triangle is better) and lay it flat on the table and work over the tip.
 
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