Getting rid of dimples?

Gerberblades

Gerberblades

Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
4,302
So I am stripping my HH. I had to remove most of the coating by hand because the paint stripper I used sucks! :mad::thumbdn: Any way, I got everything else stripped nicely, except for dimples at the top of the knife. I am doing this all by hand. (sandpaper)

Thanks
Bill

P.s- I will get some pics up in a couple of mins.
 
I just did a Meaner that had sage paint on it. I ended up taking the scales off and using a disk sander. The blade was .190 when i started and now it is about .170. I had dimples and machineing marks. If you aren't careful when you sand you will leave high and low places on it. You might be better off learning to like the dimples and just satin over the top of it.
 
pardue10 said:
I just did a Meaner that had sage paint on it. I ended up taking the scales off and using a disk sander. The blade was .190 when i started and now it is about .170. I had dimples and machineing marks. If you aren't careful when you sand you will leave high and low places on it. You might be better off learning to like the dimples and just satin over the top of it.
Click to expand...

WOW, .190 to .170! :eek: Leaving the dimples sounds like a good idea. :thumbup:

Thanks
 
Gerberblades said:
WOW, .190 to .170! :eek: Leaving the dimples sounds like a good idea. :thumbup:

Thanks
Click to expand...


I am not too surprised about that at all. It really all depends on how deep those dimple and machining marks are...Luck of the draw! On the really shallow ones .015 removal is all that is required. The deeper ones sometimes require about .03 to remove them.
 
Here are some pics-

BIllpics040.jpg


BIllpics041.jpg
 
Ban said:
I am not too surprised about that at all. It really all depends on how deep those dimple and machining marks are...Luck of the draw! On the really shallow ones .015 removal is all that is required. The deeper ones sometimes require about .03 to remove them.
Click to expand...

So the blade is .27 would it be around .25 after removal?
 
Gerberblades said:
Here are some pics-

BIllpics040.jpg


BIllpics041.jpg
Click to expand...

You need to get yourself a better stripper... one that will take it all off. :D

Look for a metal paint stripper at your hardware store.

The dimples on the flats will be easy enough... just use sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood.... close to the handle is where it gets difficult if you don't remove the slabs.

But, you will get a better idea of what's what after you have stripped it properly. :thumbup:
 
I just leave the flats alone most of the time unless I plan on removing the handles. It makes it way easier to finsh them if you use a really large flat surface (I normally use a large diamond hone or a really flat cutting board) as a sanding block, so you can refinish the tang and keep the blade perfectly flat at the same time. The cutting board isn't the best but since I'm not normally going for a showroom finish it's fine.
 
Nothing wrong with the dimples! Makes it look heavy duty and well used. Adds to the unique character.
 
yoda4561 said:
I just leave the flats alone most of the time unless I plan on removing the handles. It makes it way easier to finsh them if you use a really large flat surface (I normally use a large diamond hone or a really flat cutting board) as a sanding block, so you can refinish the tang and keep the blade perfectly flat at the same time. The cutting board isn't the best but since I'm not normally going for a showroom finish it's fine.
Click to expand...

How do you remove the handles?
 
soup_monger said:
The dimples on the flats will be easy enough... just use sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood.... close to the handle is where it gets difficult if you don't remove the slabs.
Click to expand...

And how many hours will that take? I did not have the patience to remove the dimples on my Ruck.
 
Gerber, I've stripped a few, and I found that the hand method v. machine method has zero difference for end results, but major for time/energy. I've used those sanding discs, but you need several grits cuz the lower ones cut into the steel then have to be smoothed.

My favorite method after trying many is the Scrotchbrite stripping attachments for a drill. The black plastic one will get those dimples down in under 5 minutes per side. Then the brown fiber one will give it a pretty good satin finish. Ham Solo (Tyrkson Lawson) is the one who I first heard mention it, and you can see from any of the projects he's posted the finished result is great. Check this out:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5290149&postcount=1
 
Str8Edg said:
Gerber, I've stripped a few, and I found that the hand method v. machine method has zero difference for end results, but major for time/energy. I've used those sanding discs, but you need several grits cuz the lower ones cut into the steel then have to be smoothed.

My favorite method after trying many is the Scrotchbrite stripping attachments for a drill. The black plastic one will get those dimples down in under 5 minutes per side. Then the brown fiber one will give it a pretty good satin finish. Ham Solo (Tyrkson Lawson) is the one who I first heard mention it, and you can see from any of the projects he's posted the finished result is great. Check this out:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5290149&postcount=1
Click to expand...

Thanks! Ham boy did a good job on that ASH! When I went to Ace, I could not find the drill attachment he was using, so I just picked up some sandpaper instead. I dont want to get rid of the little flats. It'll probably be finished by next week, and I will post pics, and will probably just end up leaving the dimples on.

Thanks!
 
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