Getting scale to fit bolster

[Paganpete]

Hi guys, completely new at this, wanted to make a knife for my son in the army for Xmas...I ordered fairly simple...or so I thought knivegg ash full tang with integrated bolster....however, the bolster is not flush, it is angled...it slopes forward about 10 -15 degrees I think (see link pic)... How on earth do I get the scales flush to it? Apologies if it's a stupid question but as a novice I am stumped!
Tia pete Knivegg ash

 

[Tony Mont]

The simplest way to do it would be with files.
File a little bit-check-file. Rinse and repeat until you are satisfied with the fit.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Yes, just slowly file until it fits. Once the fit is right, mount the scales and file/sand/grind off the excess scale material.

TIPS:
1) When mounting the scales, a neat trick is to glue on one scale first. Then drill the pin holes from the tang side. Next, glue on the other scale and drill it from the previous holes on the first side. This pretty much guarantees that the scales will fit tight to the bolsters and the holes will align.
2) Don't clamp the scales tightly when gluing up. This would force out all the epoxy and make the joint weak. Use the smallest/weakest clamps you can find and only two clamps
3) Don't rush things. Take your time fitting the scales and when you glue them up use slow cure epoxy. 1 hour cure minimum, and 24 hour cure is even better. Let it cure overnight before doing the next task. Work slow on finishing and shaping the handle. It is easy to take a bit more off ... it is impossible to add it back.
4) The solvent for epoxy before it cures is alcohol. After it cures, only acetone will dissolve it. The best way to avoid getting epoxy on the blade is to tape it up. Any that gets where it won't be sanded away later should be wiped off with alcohol before it hardens fully. Check for squeeze out and wipe off as needed a few times while the resin is hardening. Once hardened, try to sand/scrape/trim away most of the excess before using acetone.

 

[Hengelo_77]

Also use ink or charcoal on the bolstet to mark on the scales where they touch.

 

[Paganpete]

Thanks guys, you have been more than helpful, very much appreciated!!
Pete

 

[ea42]

Pete depending on what you're using for scales, if you have a decent miter saw you could use that as well. Just set the angle the same as the angle on your guard. Wood and even micarta would work fine this way. A trim blade would work best. Also, is you happen to have a stationary belt sander with an adjustable work rest you can angle that as well.

Eric

 

[Paganpete]

Pete depending on what you're using for scales, if you have a decent miter saw you could use that as well. Just set the angle the same as the angle on your guard. Wood and even micarta would work fine this way. A trim blade would work best. Also, is you happen to have a stationary belt sander with an adjustable work rest you can angle that as well.

Eric

Hi Eric, am using rosewood with a g10 liner...the only issue with saw etc is that the bolster edges are curved and not just a straight angle...think I attached a pic in a link as Google photos does not seem to link properly?
Thanks,
Pete

 

[Natlek]

Hi Eric, am using rosewood with a g10 liner...the only issue with saw etc is that the bolster edges are curved and not just a straight angle...think I attached a pic in a link as Google photos does not seem to link properly?
Thanks,
Pete

Here is your picture

 

[Paganpete]

Here is your picture

You star, thank you... What did I do wrong in the link?

 

[Natlek]

You star, thank you... What did I do wrong in the link?

I don t know ,but link works .I copy there that picture in my Comp in folder and then I used Imgur ............

 

[Paganpete]

I don t know ,but link works .I copy there that picture in my Comp in folder and then I used Imgur ............

Thank you, I will use Imgur in future!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

You often have to "clean up" the shoulders on a commercial blade blank with a file. Go slow and file it smooth and flat to remove any rounding or curvature that was not intended.

 

[Paganpete]

You often have to "clean up" the shoulders on a commercial blade blank with a file. Go slow and file it smooth and flat to remove any rounding or curvature that was not intended.

Thanks Stacy, one of them is def more rounded than other.

 

[scott kozub]

You can also place a small liner between the bolster and scale. With some coloured epoxy it can hide slight fitment issues assuming you get a Dye close in colour. Adds a little style as well.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Here is a trick for when a scale and bolster end up not fitting snug after glue-up.

We all have glued up a scale to the bolster at some time when it slipped or didn't fit right and left a glue line or gap. Most folks just tear it off, and start again.
A neat trick is to carefully cut between the bolster and the scale with a fine tooth hacksaw blade. Do this on both sides. After making the cut, find a thin piece of line material that fits the gap, or sand some down to fit. Slip the liner in the gap and apply thin CA to lock it in. Repeat on the other side and then sand the excess down flush. An alternative is to fill the gap with colored epoxy, but I like a sloid piece in the gap.
I have used the same method to add a diagonal stripe or and "X" in the middle of a scale. Glue a solid scale on the handle and then cut the line or "X" where you want it.. Fill with the desired color thin material (or a glow-in-the-dark mix) and sand flush. When doing an "X", cut one line first and glue in the contrast piece, then do the other cut and fill. This makes a perfect junction in the exact center.

 

[Horsewright]

Here is a trick for when a scale and bolster end up not fitting snug after glue-up.

We all have glued up a scale to the bolster at some time when it slipped or didn't fit right and left a glue line or gap. Most folks just tear it off, and start again.
A neat trick is to carefully cut between the bolster and the scale with a fine tooth hacksaw blade. Do this on both sides. After making the cut, find a thin piece of line material that fits the gap, or sand some down to fit. Slip the liner in the gap and apply thin CA to lock it in. Repeat on the other side and then sand the excess down flush. An alternative is to fill the gap with colored epoxy, but I like a sloid piece in the gap.
I have used the same method to add a diagonal stripe or and "X" in the middle of a scale. Glue a solid scale on the handle and then cut the line or "X" where you want it.. Fill with the desired color thin material (or a glow-in-the-dark mix) and sand flush. When doing an "X", cut one line first and glue in the contrast piece, then do the other cut and fill. This makes a perfect junction in the exact center.

I have done this but used a cutoff wheel on a Dremel. A guy kinda needs to be steady but it worked very well.

Yes, just slowly file until it fits. Once the fit is right, mount the scales and file/sand/grind off the excess scale material.

TIPS:
1) When mounting the scales, a neat trick is to glue on one scale first. Then drill the pin holes from the tang side. Next, glue on the other scale and drill it from the previous holes on the first side. This pretty much guarantees that the scales will fit tight to the bolsters and the holes will align.
2) Don't clamp the scales tightly when gluing up. This would force out all the epoxy and make the joint weak. Use the smallest/weakest clamps you can find and only two clamps
3) Don't rush things. Take your time fitting the scales and when you glue them up use slow cure epoxy. 1 hour cure minimum, and 24 hour cure is even better. Let it cure overnight before doing the next task. Work slow on finishing and shaping the handle. It is easy to take a bit more off ... it is impossible to add it back.
4) The solvent for epoxy before it cures is alcohol. After it cures, only acetone will dissolve it. The best way to avoid getting epoxy on the blade is to tape it up. Any that gets where it won't be sanded away later should be wiped off with alcohol before it hardens fully. Check for squeeze out and wipe off as needed a few times while the resin is hardening. Once hardened, try to sand/scrape/trim away most of the excess before using acetone.OP

Op, this one scale at a time method is how I work and it works well. I use a flat disc on my scale to bolster fitting. No help to ya on getting the fit right as I eyeball em, but I've done enough I got calibrated eyes.