Getting Started with stops

Joined
Sep 4, 2010
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275
I'm looking to learn hand sharpening to get a convex edge using the mousepad/sandpaper to strop approach.

My first attempt was dreadful. I think the mousepad I used was too soft or pressure was to hard, but my edge won't even cut paper. I ordered some 3M micro-abrasive paper 15 micron, 5 micron, 0.5 micron for my second attempt with a slight firmer pad. Is it better to use water with paper? What progression of grits? How many strokes approximately is this supposed to take?

Now I'm thinking about adding a stop.
Is there an advantage to a 4 sided(black, green, pink, bare) strop from JRE or is the Lee Valley 2-sided(green,bare) recommended?

Power tools are not possible due to apartment life. I have time and want to learn by hand first. My other sharpening experience is benchstone (rather poorly), Lansky system, and Sharpmaker(best success).
 
I had the same issue using a mouse pad. You may have been pressing too hard. I now use a piece of thick leather and it works a little better for me. I usually start off with 600 grit and then go to 800 to 1000 to 2000 and finish of on just bare leather. I am not the greatest at sharpening, but it has worked for me. I will use a wet rag to wipe the sand paper throughout the process. It helps keep it clean and makes the sand paper method go a little faster.


JT
 
Now I use a softstone/paper combo. It's been treating me well so far. Remember to remove stock material from the entire edge instead of just the very base, otherwise you'll wind up with a horrendous 90 degree microbevel that won't cut crap.
 
Strops are for finishing a already very sharp knife, if you can't get sharp before 600 grit a strop won't help you.

Proper angle and pressure mean more than your backing, you could convex on a air mattress if you really had to. I learned convex sharpening on a 1/4in thick mouse pad and still got results, if you envision the shape more than just trying to get it sharp you might have more success.
 
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