Ghetto Mistress?

Yeah, I'd call that ghettoized :eek:

I'm surprised no one has mentioned it looking like a NMFBM rip off.
 
M67 said:
I'm surprised no one has mentioned it looking like a NMFBM rip off.
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They have over in that thread. The OP even says it is FBM inspired. I can't really fault the guy for trying to make his own, but if he turns around and sells it, then I'd have a bit of a problem with it.
 
I had a ghetto mistress once, she was a lot of fun, but she was a lot of trouble...not worth it. Are we still talking about a knife? If you can't buy it, make it!:thumbdn:
 
Imitation is the greatest form of flattery. I don't blame the guy...he was inspired. But he should have changed it a little...to make it more personal...i.e., Busse inspired, not copying. It's not like he's mass producing them in China for sale though I've made knives with nothing but hand tools and an old bicycle (foot powered) 3ft diameter stone wheel. It takes an INSANE amount of time. I guarantee that the time he spent is worth WAY more than the cost of a NMFBM. I don't have all my power tools here and I've been making machetes for friends with nothing more than a drill press, 4x36 belt sander, cheap grinder, files, sandpaper, and blood/sweat. People I don't know see them and ask if they can buy one...my response: Sure you can, that'll be $2000 minimum...otherwise it's not worth my time, or, you can buy a commercial one for about $40.... your choice. It's definitely a labor of love.
 
I think it's a pretty amazing job. I'm on my fourth handle job and I still can't get them as flush to the steel as that guy's first knife. The only complaint I have are the scales. That tang at the end looks really long and wide and it's kind of weird.
 
SpyderPhreak said:
They have over in that thread. The OP even says it is FBM inspired. I can't really fault the guy for trying to make his own, but if he turns around and sells it, then I'd have a bit of a problem with it.
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Didn't see that, did a quick skim at work and didnt see FBM anywhere.

Damn Mondays.
 
uyotg said:
I think it's a pretty amazing job. I'm on my fourth handle job and I still can't get them as flush to the steel as that guy's first knife. The only complaint I have are the scales. That tang at the end looks really long and wide and it's kind of weird.
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Uyotg: I've noticed a couple of your handle jobs that you've posted. Advice on making the tang flush with your handle with limited equipment: Shape the perimeter of your handle after it's on the tang, not before. Roughly shape over sized handle scales, mount the oversized handle scales to your tang with epoxy, bolts, pins, etc..., then sand the scales flush with the tang (starting with rough grit for shaping...use a belt sander to make it quick...dremel sanding wheel in the tighter curves...progressing in finer grits by hand until you have the texture you desire). This will give you a perfectly fitted handle flush with the tang. If you progressively sand the tang/handle union beyond 1200 grit (I go up to 3000), you will have a mirror polished tang in the end...you can even finish off with a buffing wheel and compound if you want it ultra shiny. Alternatively, you can finish the tang union with a dremel grinding wheel to give a non-reflective more masculine look. Either way, I think you'll like the result. More importantly, it saves a TON of time compared to trying to shape the scales before you mount them. This method will not work very well if you're trying to preserve a powder coating on the tang mind you.
 
For the guy's first knife ... it's pretty amazing ! I have no issues with him using the NMFBM as an inspiration ... Loveless, Randall, Woodlore, there are many knife makers who seem to be inspirational in a "design" type that becomes an "icon" ... Jerry's designs are up there with them ... certainly in the Battle Mistress category ... and to be fair to the guy ... he has'nt quite got the hilt right and I doubt anyone would prefer that look to the original ... but for a first knife he has done really well.

It is'nt the same as someone "knocking off" a design for large scale production when you have a guy making his first knife based on the love he has for a particular design of a knife ...

How much would Jerry owe to Rezin Bowie ? There is a lot of "Bowie" DNA in Jerry's Mistress designs ...
 
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David Brown said:
no it is not
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yeah, I should clarify that imitation in the marketplace is not flattering, in that instance it is weasley and chickenshit...
I was thinking more in the harmless since...I don't think Busse's going to lose any business over this garage job.
The other day I heard that my 5 yr old was making unusual swiping motions on the counter all by herself... when asked what she was doing, she responded that she was sharpening knives like Daddy does. There's nothing more flattering than that. That's the type of imitation I was thinking of...
 
Raging Rhino said:
Uyotg: I've noticed a couple of your handle jobs that you've posted. Advice on making the tang flush with your handle with limited equipment: Shape the perimeter of your handle after it's on the tang, not before. Roughly shape over sized handle scales, mount the oversized handle scales to your tang with epoxy, bolts, pins, etc..., then sand the scales flush with the tang (starting with rough grit for shaping...use a belt sander to make it quick...dremel sanding wheel in the tighter curves...progressing in finer grits by hand until you have the texture you desire). This will give you a perfectly fitted handle flush with the tang. If you progressively sand the tang/handle union beyond 1200 grit (I go up to 3000), you will have a mirror polished tang in the end...you can even finish off with a buffing wheel and compound if you want it ultra shiny. Alternatively, you can finish the tang union with a dremel grinding wheel to give a non-reflective more masculine look. Either way, I think you'll like the result. More importantly, it saves a TON of time compared to trying to shape the scales before you mount them. This method will not work very well if you're trying to preserve a powder coating on the tang mind you.
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Cool, I have a fan :p
Thanks for your advice. I noticed you gave KalEl some tips too in the Swamp Rat forum. Could you explain more about the wax thing to make wood appear more "3D?" I always like how burl looks like it has depth to it, but I can never get my projects to show that same depth. What wax do you use?

And how do you work on the part of the scales that's on the flat side of the blade without messing up the steel if the scales are already attached to the blade?

And where do you get 2000+ grit paper? I remember being able to find those things everywhere maybe 6-7 years ago, but now I have a tough time finding anything above 220.

I'm afraid to use the Dremel grinding wheel for a finish because it could grind off more than I want. It's happened :( I am comfortable with a less aggressive flap wheel, though.
 
uyotg said:
Cool, I have a fan :p
Thanks for your advice. I noticed you gave KalEl some tips too in the Swamp Rat forum. Could you explain more about the wax thing to make wood appear more "3D?" I always like how burl looks like it has depth to it, but I can never get my projects to show that same depth. What wax do you use?

And how do you work on the part of the scales that's on the flat side of the blade without messing up the steel if the scales are already attached to the blade?

And where do you get 2000+ grit paper? I remember being able to find those things everywhere maybe 6-7 years ago, but now I have a tough time finding anything above 220.

I'm afraid to use the Dremel grinding wheel for a finish because it could grind off more than I want. It's happened :( I am comfortable with a less aggressive flap wheel, though.
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For finer sandpaper, try an auto store or a supply house that caters to auto body shops.
 
What is the difference between this guy making a copy of a Mistress in his garage and the countless number of makers that have copied and sold copies of a Nessmuk?
 
WVHILLS said:
What is the difference between this guy making a copy of a Mistress in his garage and the countless number of makers that have copied and sold copies of a Nessmuk?
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The Nessmuk is not copyrighted or protected by trademark or patent. George Washington Sears died over a century ago, and he never capitalized on the design nor took steps to protect it. Well, that's what a Google search suggests. Nothing from him or his estate. There is this, but it seems it was abandoned.

The Battle Mistress is a brand, and the trademark (the talon hole) is present, so there are plenty more potential legal consequences to copying the Battle Mistress. Just making it in a garage doesn't mean much, but if he tries to capitalize on it, it means a lot.
 
uyotg said:
Cool, I have a fan :p
Thanks for your advice. I noticed you gave KalEl some tips too in the Swamp Rat forum. Could you explain more about the wax thing to make wood appear more "3D?" I always like how burl looks like it has depth to it, but I can never get my projects to show that same depth. What wax do you use?

And how do you work on the part of the scales that's on the flat side of the blade without messing up the steel if the scales are already attached to the blade?

And where do you get 2000+ grit paper? I remember being able to find those things everywhere maybe 6-7 years ago, but now I have a tough time finding anything above 220.

I'm afraid to use the Dremel grinding wheel for a finish because it could grind off more than I want. It's happened :( I am comfortable with a less aggressive flap wheel, though.
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Gary,

I believe Wax is good for knife handles for the primary reason that it is so easily reworkable. Wax is temporary...i.e., it does not provide a hard, relatively permanent, protective finish like a lacquer or poly finish would. It does however provide some level of protection and helps to bring out the finish. However, try and rework (i.e., sand) a poly finish and it turns white, you pretty much have to remove the finish entirely rework the wood and then reapply. With wax, if your handle gets scratched or dinged...you just re-sand your trouble area and buff on wax and UR good to go. Oil and wax finishes for knive handles are at least my preference. Any wood furniture wax can work, there are several try em out...I use beeswax too. Make sure to apply several stages of oil (I like tru oil myself), where you apply, sand with fine grit sandpaper or steel wool, and reapply, allowing several hourse of trying in between. Apply wax with a buffing wheel.

The end of the handle scales (on the flat side of the blade): The bottom perimeter of this area must be shaped in advance...you can sand and work the transition after it is installed, but obviously the bottom form that makes contact with the tang flat cannot be worked after installation. Other than this inch or so area...all other areas can be formed. You can shape the tang and handle together as one form using a belt sander (make sure to constantly dip it in cold water).

The grinding wheel on a dremel can easily apply a texture on the tang spine without removing any noticeable metal...use a slow speed and make light contact...basically your just bouncing the wheel off the metal giving it a kind of frosted look. I definitely recommend that you practice on an old kitchen knife or another knife that you don't care about first to get the hang of it...don't take the tremel straight to your prized knife. Alternatively, you can sand to whatever finish you want....all the way to mirror.

You can buy any grit of sandpaper you want on ebay. Otherwise, like the other poster said, go to an auto parts store...people use finer grit sandpaper to restore the transparency of old clouded headlights.

cheers,
rr
 
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