Ghetto satin, full convex Chopweiler I just finished.

230grains

230grains

Joined
Jul 10, 2009
Messages
3,094
Just did this one for a friend. The previous owner had stripped the coating and gun blued it. We decided it'd be better full convex and satin finished. I wanted to leave some of the bluing on for protection near the guard. My work kind of sucks, but hey.. whatya want for free? I'm no Norcal or Ban.

I will say, sr101 gets SHARP. Free hanging hair splitting without hand stropping, just 1x42 stropping. I usually hand strop after but there was no need.

sr.jpg


sr2.jpg



So how bad did I screw this one up? :p
 
Looks good.

It is (Unfortunately), very hard to satin finish the ricasso and other areas of the exposed tangs and ricasso - unless you removed the scales - which results in effectively having to Disassemble the knife, then RE-BUILD the knife to get a proper satin finish...... At which point you would have been better off with a Kit option. :( .... HENCE, I WISH Swamp Rat would provide ALL knife design options with a SATIN option!!! :thumbup: Since it is WAY easier for the satin finish to be done at the factory PRIOR to the knife being assembled!


Looks like the blade ended up being full convex. Why not give it a Zero Convex edge in the process???

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I consider full zero edge where there is no real transition between the edge and the primary grind, that's pretty much what that is, as there is no shoulder, just the final portion is polished. Hard to capture in my pics I think.
 
230grains said:
I consider full zero edge where there is no real transition between the edge and the primary grind, that's pretty much what that is, as there is no shoulder, just the final portion is polished. Hard to capture in my pics I think.
Click to expand...

OK.... it sounds like we understand it to mean the same. :thumbup:
Just from the pictures it looks like a very defined transition from primary grind to edge. :confused: I usually put a mirror (or sometimes semi-mirror) polish my convex edges while leaving the majority of the blade satin, but when I do it the transition comes out more blended and a somewhat fading transition without such a distinct line. Different techniques I guess. :thumbup:

Sometimes, I will put a convex edge on a flat grind where I transition the convex edge into the flat where the transition is pretty darn smooth without much of any noticable shoulder, but arguably having "some" shoulder transition - even if pretty smooth. In those cases, my lines tend to be a little more defined.

They both work very well though - with both removing that shoulder either completely or mostly. :thumbup:



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In regards to the undercoating (Charcoal layer) that you are leaving behind and referring to as "bluing for protection". I don't know for sure if that is really "Bluing". I have tended to wonder if that might not be a decarb layer (???????). I am not sure. :confused: If it is decarb, those areas may actually rust faster rather than slower. I have a few areas of a few knives I have stripped that I have had to leave that layer - usually at the pommel. I have always made sure I have a good coat of Ren-Wax on those areas. So, I haven't noticed problems, but assumed because of the RenWax (?????)

I have never seen ANY indication that Busse has a process involving bluing the blades prior to coating. I have seen people ask about that layer and I have asked about it myself. But, I have not yet seen an answer that provides any confirmation about "WHAT" that layer really is.

Have you seen or heard something to confirm more about that layer?

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im at work so i cant really respond but the bluing isnt an undercoat. A previous owner stripped it and left it saber ground. He then used gun blue on it. Thats not an undercoat.
 
OK then. Well - color me wrong again. Pictures keep deceiving me today.

If it "has" been blued, then.... its blued. :o

I am still curious about the charcoal gray undercoating though. I still have not yet seen a confirming answer to what that is. :confused:
 
ive never got a straight answer as to what the gray is under bussekin knives. Its not decarburization and it doesnt rust like decarb.
 
Thanks, SR101 takes an AWESOME edge, mirrors up pretty easy. My friend is happy with it.
 
Looks good 230, I like when you strip your knives they look so old school. Which is an awesome look i think. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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