Giant Mouse Ace Grand and Skiff Bearings

Lenny

Lenny

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 15, 1998
Messages
2,486
So, I purchased an Ace Grand and immediately purchased Skiffs for it.
When I tried to install them, the pivot fit the bearing fine, but the outer diameter of the bearing
was at least 2mm smaller than the recess. Additionally, the ball bearings themselves didn't line up
with the depression in the washers the stock ones run in. I returned them for a refund.
But I'm wondering what bearings will actually fit in the Ace Grand.
Has anybody successfully installed Carbon Bearings in this knife?
What brand, what size?
Thank you

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fit in the Grand.
 
Short answer: No.

The 5mm 1/16 Skiffs that fit all of my other GM’s do not fit the Grand, as you found out. Skiff makes and sells a bearing measurement tool which, of course, is out of stock. My only suggestion is to contact them & see if they have the answer. Their website does not list a complete size for the Grand….only a pivot size.

(Edit: First hand experience. I took my Grand apart and tried a set of 1/16 11 ball Skiffs just prior to writing the above.)
 
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Had the same problem a couple months back. The site listed the 5mm Ceramic Bearings: 1/16 in (11 ball) as being compatible with the Ace Grand. They were not even close.

Steve Skiff informed me that he thinks the internal components of the Grand may have changed recently, resulting in the issue.
 
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You could always send one of your bearings to Steve and have him tell you the deal. He ships fast and could have your bearing returning back in the mail immediately.

I keep almost every size Skiff on hand for sizing purposes. I buy a LOT of his bearings. I could buy 3-4 new Hinderers for what I have in Skiff bearings I think.
 
I could do that.
Do you think better bearings make that much difference in the action?
I think my biggest complaint with the knife is that it has a very strong detent.
I can't flick it open, slow roll only!
 
I really do think they make a difference. It's typically 1 to 2 more ceramic balls than stock, which allows less pivot tension and a larger / flatter surface area of "ball" for the surfaces to ride on.

Steel balls -> ceramic? No contest. Ceramic all day. They make the biggest difference in the steel bearing Hinderers and ZTs I have. Less so on the already-ceramic WE/CIVIVI/Sencut knives, although they do add additional balls to those.
 
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It's hard to say without seeing this model apart or the glide rings in the recess. However, I've been able to use them without issue in a couple of knives where the recesses or bearing pockets were notably wider than the rings themselves. What matters most are the pivot and bearing sizes. Whether or not the ring fits nicely around the pivot should be obvious. Ball size needs to match and should be measured. Do you have calipers?

It's hard to comment without seeing the washers, but is the race purposefully cut or is it just a worn track? In the latter case, I've occasionally just flipped washers that had damaged races in them (apparently from over-tightening at the factory). If all else is equal and the depth of a race isn't crucial for fit, that could be a solution to the bearings landing a little differently. Again though, I don't have the model in question and I'm just speculating from experience with lots of other knives.
 
The race is purposely cut.
I have calipers but it's hard to determine the diameter of where the bearings should fall in the race.
Maybe I'll just disassemble the knife and send a race and bearing to Skiff.
 
Lenny said:
The race is purposely cut.
I have calipers but it's hard to determine the diameter of where the bearings should fall in the race.
Maybe I'll just disassemble the knife and send a race and bearing to Skiff.
Click to expand...

I've been meaning to send him some Kizer bearings. They seem to use 1.2mm (3/64") bearings in a bunch of their knives.
 
When I received my Grand there was a feeling that the bump that is on the liner lock and rides on the blade stock was galling or grinding against with metal to metal friction. Not sure what exact words to use to describe this, but I applied some Militec to that spot - I stayed away from the bearings - and I applied the Militec with heat as described on the bottle. The end result is a completely smooth action that was transformed from what I originally received. I don't know what issue y'all are chasing with a bearing change but hopefully this tip helps someone.
 
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