The Buck:
Send to Buck for a SPA service. I think it is under $10 plus shipping. It will look new when you get it back. (the initials(?) and date in the bolster will still be there, depending on how deep it is.)
Using the SPA service does not void the lifetime warranty.
It looks like there is a date of 2000 on the bolster?
If so, it should have the "Edge 2000" blade geometry. MUCH better than what they used before.
Boker and the Camillus:
Both have a lovely patina (prevents rust)
Personally, I'd just sharpen them. They don't look like they need anything else.
If the action is gritty, wash with warm water, hitting the joints with a toothbrush, and working the blades under running warm water. Dry, (spraying the joints with WD-40 will drive out any moisture, or use compressed air if avalable) then oil the joints. Note that WD-40 is not a lubricant. Adding adropper two of whatever oil on each joint is no biggie. Should be oiled at least monthly, anyways.
For the lube, over the decades I've used at one time or another: 3 in One, Transmission Fluid and engine oil (fresh or used, "natural" abd synthetic), mineral oil, olive oil, hydrolic fluid, Hoppy's Number 9 (what I'm currentlly using) or other "gun oil", 2 stroke oil, and even cutting and honing/sharpening oil. Basically, whatever I had available.
Many wlll tell you: "Use a food safe oil like mineral oil if you'll be using the knife on food or cleaning/butcheriing critters and fish."
Personally, I never bothered. There isn't enough left on the knife to worry about after you wipe it down. NONE of the oils I've used over the last 63 years changed to taste of my food, nor made me sick.
I like a keen edge. Over 60 years I've found 10 degrees per side (20 degrees inclusive) works great for the "simple" carbon steels these have (10xx, most likely 1095), and the 440A/440B/440C and 420/425 stainless steels. Once the edge is set, stropping restores the working edge 8.5~9 out of 10 times.
Edgemaster:
Automatic/"switchblade? ... does it work? If not, someonein the Automatic/Switchblade sub forum might know how to fixit. (and where to get parts)
There is some rust or grime it looks like near the tang.
scrub with oiled 0000 steel wool to remove the rust. Mineral Oil, or 3 in One Sewing Machine Oil will work fine.
For anything else ... the Auto/Switch Blade sub forum would be my suggestion.
What are the handle slabs/covers? I can't tell if plastic or if painted or anodized metal.
The KaBar:
I don't see any issues on it. It isn't really dirty.
You could hit the sheath with Saddle Soap and mink oil if it is stiff.
As for the leather washer handle, I don't see any excess dirt or anything.
I'd sharpen and use it.
DON'T store the knife long term in the sheath! That
may cause rust, and turn the guard and pommel green, depending on how humid it is.
If there is rust on the Boker and Camillus that I didn't see in the photos, oiled 0000 steel wool will remove the rust and grime, but not the patina.
