Gizmo for tapping on a fawns foot?

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Dec 25, 2018
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Some time ago someone posted a device he had created so he could tap (gently) on the end of a fawns foot shaped handle with a mallet. Well I need to do that! Could someone please link me up to the thread, or share your own clever ideas about how to do this? Trying to save a nice handle.
Thanks!
 
My "gizmo" for installing a handle without beating on the end of it, is to make the handle fit the eye of the tool so you don't have to beat on it to get it installed. Simple huh ??? And yes, I have made handles from scratch for axes, installed them and used them hard and they have not moved at all. There you go.............
 
Brent, I hear exactly what you are saying.
In this instance I was trying to save a vintage handle which had started to work it's way off about 3/8" and then re-wedged. I think if I could get it seated where it had been, removing the existing wedges would be a whole lot easier. I will then remove the lovely handle and fit it properly! This is why I asked.
Thanks for chiming in.
 
Thank you, sir! That's the post I was looking for!
Another thing that I do to make things easier is to put the axe upside down on a heating vent (if you have forced hot air). Or in the steam of hot air coming from the fan atop your wood stove etc.
I've left them there for 1,2 even 3 weeks before to shrink the tongue enough to make working it easier.
Do you have a photo of the nice fawns foot?
Were you able to make something that worked for you?
 
My "gizmo" for installing a handle without beating on the end of it, is to make the handle fit the eye of the tool so you don't have to beat on it to get it installed. Simple huh ??? And yes, I have made handles from scratch for axes, installed them and used them hard and they have not moved at all. There you go.............
You do have to hit the palm swell hard man. It's utter foolishness to claim otherwise. No one can honestly agree with you that you can achieve a strong hang without hitting the end of the swell hard.
If you are saying you don't hit them hard and that your hangs stay tight through - actual use- then I don't believe you. Nobody else should either.
I was going to call your bluff the other day but I honestly don't like being combative. But this guy came here for good advice. Not bs.
 
No one who ever actually used an axe very much would ever hang the axe with a loose fit at the the bottom of the eye and then depend on the wedge to hold the head tight. Of course you have to hit the palm swell hard for a good hang. If you have read Halverson's other posts you should know by now that he is full of crap.
 
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An axe head does not have to be loose, but a snug sliding fit is fine. If you look at an adze, that has the head held on perfectly fine with NO wedge and NO tight fit, you get the idea. Also there are plenty of axes and hatchets out there decades old that have no "swell" below the handle at all. The swell has a lot more to do with style than any practical purpose, as if an axe head has ever suddenly slid down the handle to the user's hand LOL.

If how hard it is to drive a handle into an axe eye is so important, then you go ahead and try leaving the wedge out of an axe that took you so much effort to hammer in, and I will use my axe that I put on with no hammering at all with a nice wood/metal combo wedging installed as I have been for 40+ years of chopping and splitting.
 
More BS. Adze hafts are a slip fit with the haft being driven down hard from the top, not driven hard from the bottom up and then wedged. Apples and oranges. The reason adze hafts are fit this way is so the haft can be removed easy by driving the haft out the top. And the reason you need to remove the adze head is so you can sharpen it on a peddle or hand crank grindstone. Adze blade is perpendicular to the haft, you can not get the bevel on the grindstone with the haft in the way. The axe on the other hand, because the the axe bit bevel is parallel to the haft, can be sharpened on the grindstone with the haft fixed tight. This system with axe and adze sharpening goes as far back in history as metal tools and the invention of the wheel. Any old guy (this includes me) who grew up using axes and adzes should know this. Now about the term "adze eye" as used on wood handled hammers. The term is used to define the rectangular shape which helps when driving and especially when pulling nails.

The haft swell below the axe eye has nothing to do with style. The swell is necessary to make the transition from a comfortable haft shape to the shape of the axe eye. The reason that, on factory made hafts, the swell is so large and the tongue so long is simply to fit the largest variety of heads. This is good business for the factory made hafts. When axe hafts were hand made, there were never large swells or long tongues. Look at old axes with what appear to be original hafts, and you will see this. I have, and have used, many early axes. I have inspected the exhibited and non exhibited axe collections at the Smithsonian Institute, Colonial Williamsburg, and Mercer Museum. In no way is the swell below the axe eye to prevent the head from sliding down the haft on to the users hand. You may have noticed that I always criticize leaving a unnecessary haft swell below the eye. My reasons are:

* If you use an axe hard, all day long, you want to be able to slid your right hand (if you are right handed) all the way up under the head as you swing the axe. This helps support the weight better and prevents fatigue. There are also times when, for control, you want to use your axe for close work and place your hand, or both hands, right under the eye.

*You do not want a fat swell of wood below the eye. Extra wood below the eye can hit, and splinter, by hitting your work piece. All that is necessary is a tapered slight swell just below the eye. You have three choices--Use a rasp or four in hand to remove the extra wood and seat the head down where the factory haft swell is (this will shorten the haft some) ; If you want the full factory length then use the four in hand to remove enough of the factory swell (move it up) to allow you to use the full length of the factory haft; If you have already hung the haft with the swell too low or to fat, just carefully remove it and do not bugger up your four in hand on the already mounted head. If you dont know what to do with the removed hickory, ask Quinton what he does with his hickory scraps.

*Last- It's ugly.
 
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The other reason the adze head has to be removable is so the adze can be tuned to the work.

And for what it's worth, you can tune a piano, you can tune an adze but you can't tuna fish.

;)
Happy New Year!
 
The adze, the pick-axe, the mattock are all examples of tools used like the axe where there is no swell beneath the head of the tool, and that is because a swell is not needed on any handled tool that is used for striking or chopping.

If someone had a good enough aim, the head of an axe would do it's work if it had no handle at all and could be thrown at it's target with the proper speed, or it could be put on the end of a length of rope and would do the job if it could be made to stay straight when it hit the target.

And that is all the wood handle on an axe or maul, adze, pick or mattock is for, to let the user keep the aim of the head correct on the way to it's target. Anyone who thinks that the energy for these tools to do their work comes from pressure the user is putting on the handle at the moment the head impacts the target does not know how they work.

Any time the head of an axe gets a little loose it is from wood shrinking, and when it does get loose it moves up the handle, not down. If the head of an axe moved down when it was loose then you would be in that magical universe that only Old Axeman lives in where no wedge at all would be needed on tool handles. Even when an axe head does get a bit loose and moves up a bit, it is still impossible to get it off the handle without removing the old wedge first, as many on this forum know first-hand from their handle-changing activities.

The only time a handle breaks on an axe is when the user has very poor skill and the handle hits the target instead of the head, or the handle has had some type of rot set into it from neglect or age or insect larvae. A genuine craftsman with good skill could use an axe with a balsa-wood handle and never have it break because he would be hitting his target with the head of the tool, on target where it needed to be hit. Just like a good carpenter hitting nail after nail in the head.

In the hipster's world, the axe has to have a brand-name head, a handle out of "approved" types of wood, and the grain running their favorite way and with the head mounted according to their old wives tales and lore. In the REAL world millions of axes have gotten their job done with very little of that, with handles of sub-par wood, grain run-out and no-name unmarked heads. In the real world axes were tools and not collector's items or jewelry for the egos of internet forum members and those who split kindling on yearly camping trips during time-off of their corporate servitude.

And that is why when someone says that an axe head has to be such a tight fit that hammering it on will damage the handle unless special jigs are used is the one that is spreading it.
 
Thanks guys! The answer was in the second post!
We know! And we're glad you found the help you wanted.
We just had someone who has a bigger mouth than skill set. And it's improper to let bad advice and misinformation stand unchallenged.
Hence the back n forth. But that's over hopefully! :D
Did you make your own version of the tool?
I thought of a few improvements to it. Feel free to dm me if you've got any other questions about it!
 
With an adze eye claw hammer maybe, I've had a hammer or two hang easy with little to no pounding that are still tight today but no way with an axe.

Maybe for now, but use them seriously and you'll notice them loosen up.
 
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