*glares at S125V* I'll get back to you later

Joined
Sep 19, 2001
Messages
8,968
250 edge leading passes (not back and forth) per side on my D8XX at 12 degrees and I am about 60% of the way to establishing the new bevel.

I'm not wasting passes this time, as I have made myself a nice little adjustable angle base for my stones. Son of a biscuit I just sharpened my S110V shallot with this setup the other day, to 15 degrees with no hassles. But that one is 5 pts softer than the 125V, and not as wear resistant even at equal hardness.

I am going to cry if this ever chips on me :foot:
 
250 edge leading passes (not back and forth) per side on my D8XX at 12 degrees and I am about 60% of the way to establishing the new bevel.

I'm not wasting passes this time, as I have made myself a nice little adjustable angle base for my stones. Son of a biscuit I just sharpened my S110V shallot with this setup the other day, to 15 degrees with no hassles. But that one is 5 pts softer than the 125V, and not as wear resistant even at equal hardness.

I am going to cry if this ever chips on me :foot:


You sure it didn't cut the diamonds off your stone? :p
 
Have you had the chance to test this steel?

250 strokes on a XXC, that must Be crazy hard to sharpen....hope that edge holds up.
 
Damn, I must suck at sharpening, then. I was rebeveling my Delica 4 (remember my D4 Mod by any chance?) on one side from the stock ~20° (for one side) to ~10° (for that one side). This was on an angle block that I just put together. Actually I was using an XC stone, but I think I did at least 800 passes and was only ~60% through.

I gave up and then decided to give it the flat grinding treatment :D

To use the angle block, you just hold your knife horizontal, right? It's so uncomfortable for me...
 
No offense but the angle block just sounds silly to me.
 
I like the adjustable block because I can change the sharpening angle and still know what it is without calipers, protractors, or digital angle finders. And I know what the angle is before I put it on the knife, unlike when I use the laser goniometer to measure the angle once the edge is formed.

It also helps to cut down on the natural convexity of freehanding, which is a little better for control imo. I can hold 2-3 degrees without really trying these days, but that's still the difference between a relief and microbevel. And depending on the knife, I can't tell if I'm holding 12-15 degrees, or 15-18 degrees :p

Still, I just put a couple together and am feeling it out, just wanted a solution without fixed angles. This way, it's infinitely adjustable between 5 and 25+ degrees, and it doesn't need to be clamped to a vise or anything. Move the angle setter, rest the stone on the board, and move the blade horizontally. hundreds and hundreds of times...
 
Hmm, seems I rather overestimated my progress. Another 250 passes, and I haven't reached the edge yet. I'm much closer, but I can still see the old bevel as a micro, maybe a mm or less. I'm rotating and rinsing the plate, with a good sudsy water layer kept on it, this just takes a while.
 
Hmm, seems I rather overestimated my progress. Another 250 passes, and I haven't reached the edge yet. I'm much closer, but I can still see the old bevel as a micro, maybe a mm or less. I'm rotating and rinsing the plate, with a good sudsy water layer kept on it, this just takes a while.

Go electric my friend and get a small belt sander. It was the only way I was able to sharpen mine and even then it was a bear to do because I started at too high a grit. If you do go electric I recommend starting at a low grit to reprofile and then work your way up. It still takes quite a while but it won't take 250 passes on one side and you'll be happy with the results :D
 
No offense but the angle block just sounds silly to me.

Honestly, I liked doing it by hand better -_-

And I know what the angle is before I put it on the knife, unlike when I use the laser goniometer to measure the angle once the edge is formed.

Personally, I don't care to know the number of degrees on my angle. If I want it thinner, I'll hold it at a thinner angle. If I want it thicker, I'll hold it at a higher angle. I don't think I've ever know what angle any of my edges are lol

It also helps to cut down on the natural convexity of freehanding, which is a little better for control imo.

That's interesting, because in my experience so far, my hand-held angle is straighter than by my block. Of course I've only had this thing for a day :o
 
I like the adjustable block because I can change the sharpening angle and still know what it is without calipers, protractors, or digital angle finders. And I know what the angle is before I put it on the knife....
Makes perfect sense to me. Besides, using a block, or even clamping a benchstone off vertical in a vise like I do, IMO really isn't all that much of a departure from setting the stone on a bench or table -- the bench/table is still the overwhelming component holding the stone.

Plus what good is it to apply an edge at an undesired angle, only to then measure it and confirm that it wasn't what you wanted? :)
 
I read somewhere about a device called a "gizmo" that holds full size stones the way an Edge-Pro holds small ones.

IIRC, some place called Chefknives to go, or Kitchenknives to go, or some name like that sells them.

Then, of course, there's always the Edge-Pro and the EZE-Sharp.
Maybe that's the answer to your re-bevel.
 
I read somewhere about a device called a "gizmo" that holds full size stones the way an Edge-Pro holds small ones.

IIRC, some place called Chefknives to go, or Kitchenknives to go, or some name like that sells them.

Then, of course, there's always the Edge-Pro and the EZE-Sharp.
Maybe that's the answer to your re-bevel.

The Gizmo's are handbuilt by Kenneth Schwartz, it looks pretty interesting as it can hold full-sized DMTs and Shaptons:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRMOW9fEmVs&feature=player_embedded
 
you mean you guys don't hold the stone in your opposite hand?

I used to for my DMT and Norton India stones, but with my waterstones I don't like prune hands by the end of a sharpening session.
 
Back
Top