Glass-bead and high polish combo examples?

[Creeper]

Hello,

Would anyone have photo examples of a knife (or knives) with titanium or SS scales or handles where they've used a combination of polish and glass beading to create a pattern or design, 'functional' or not?

I have a couple of new balisong type knives coming, one a Ti handled BM46MC, the other a SS handled DR Tsunami kit, with both being a 600 grit or better finish and no embellishment.

I own an industrial quality glass beading cabinet with a large assortment of glass, garnet and hull grades, so I have the option of getting creative with it and was looking for ideas. Heat coloring is also an option.

Thanks,
C

 

[Daniel Prentice]

go to my gallery on my site.... I have several blades that were either clay quenched or edge quenched and bead blasted..... let me know if you need any help.........

Daniel

 

[Creeper]

Thanks very much for the response Daniel, you make some very interesting knives. I'm afraid that I couldn't find any examples of what I'm looking for however.

I'm searching for a combination of high polish and a blasted matte finish on a metal handle. Something where someone has created a pattern or design in the handle.
The art form of glass blasting (etching) as shown in the photo below, but on a much smaller (and simpler) scale... and on metal.

Thanks again,
C

 

[Lucky Bob]

Thanks very much for the response Daniel, you make some very interesting knives. I'm afraid that I couldn't find any examples of what I'm looking for however.

I'm searching for a combination of high polish and a blasted matte finish on a metal handle. Something where someone has created a pattern or design in the handle.
The art form of glass blasting (etching) as shown in the photo below, but on a much smaller (and simpler) scale... and on metal.

Thanks again,
C

I was actually thinking about that recently, except more with polymer (Micarta/G10) and wood than metals. Seems to me, it'd work just fine, if you could find an abrasion-resistant enough protector that was also flexible enough to fit the curves of the piece in question.

 

[Creeper]

I was actually thinking about that recently, except more with polymer (Micarta/G10) and wood than metals. Seems to me, it'd work just fine, if you could find an abrasion-resistant enough protector that was also flexible enough to fit the curves of the piece in question.

There are lots of ways to mask a part to be blasted. A pattern cut from vinyl adhesive sheet and applied to the part is one of the best, as the vinyl can be trimmed to a very tight and complex pattern, shape, design, sceen... what have you.
The vinyl sheet is extremely durable and will take quite a bit of blast abuse and still produce a very fine edge separation, while the adhesive is high tack yet easy to remove.
I usually use clear so I can get a better idea of adhesion.
The only downside is that it can be difficult to apply to compound curves without using a 'float' liquid and a heat gun. A good alternative is to use multiple overlapping pieces where required.

Where do you get such a product you ask? Easy, it's what's used as a protective number or decal overlay on a competition motorcycle.
Go to any dirt bike dealer and ask for a clear number plate 'simple sheet'... about $12 for a 18"X24" sheet.

C

 

[Lucky Bob]

Damn, that's a good idea! When I finally get around to making my pocket-wharnie, I'll probably use that idea.

 

[Creeper]

Damn, that's a good idea! When I finally get around to making my pocket-wharnie, I'll probably use that idea.

A few other glass beading tricks...

Always shoot perpendicular to the subject surface... as squarely as possible for a sharp crisp edge. By working at a greater than 90 degree angle across the vinyl, you can produce a blast 'shadow'.

If you want a 'softer' edge, hold the subject or the gun at a slightly less than 90 degree angle.
This is another nice bonus of using clear vinyl... you can 'see' just how soft the edge gets as you go.

Better to use low pressure than high... your not removing contamination, only texturing the surface, and it's easier to 'layer' in that texture a bit at a time than to try and get it in one pass.

Have fun with it... a bit of experimentation on scrap will help to guide your hand when you do the real thing.

C