Glass platen, will this be OK?

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Skinner79

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Feb 5, 2019
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I am installing a glass platen. I tapped my steel platen and was going to attach a bottom safety shelf, but then realized maybe I could just rest the glass on two cap screws (instead of an actual shelf). Anyone see problems with this? Seems like all you are really trying to do is prevent the glass from sliding down in the event it came loose. I was planning on using JB Weld to adhere the glass.

https://flic.kr/p/2okHi2m
 
Hmmm. I just stuck mine on with 3 strips of double-sided pressure tape. Stayed put over 15 years. I finally cracked the glass and had a hard time scraping the tape and glass off.
 
Mine is mounted with tapped screws and JB Weld and has been working just fine. Just be aware that the screw heads make stick out past the glass, in which case you will want to grind them back below the glass surface level.
 
Mine is attached with JB weld with no bottom lip. I have had mine for maybe 20 years, or when ever they started being used.
 
That’s exactly how I have mine just with the two screws. I personally don’t think a shelf or screws are necessary. I use double sided tape and once I tried to get the platen off to change it, and can’t imagine that thing ever popping off for how hard it was to remove it.
 
If you can confidently predict your glass will break (if it ever does) in a manner that will not allow the sharp fragments to shoot through that gap between your screws like a hockey goal then you should be fine. If you can't accurately predict how your glass will fracture it makes much more sense to use a shelf to completely block off the most dangerous path for broken pyroceram glass to be launched in your waist-down direction. A shelf may not be necessary, but you've done 85% of the work of installing one already, so you may as well finish it and have something that actually performs as intended if it's ever needed plus the peace of mind that comes with it. As you have it currently configured, it really isn't serving as much of safety shelf at all. YMMV, of course.

I use full length double-sided Gorilla tape and have a welded shelf. I guess that makes me a "belt & suspenders" guy, but I don't think about it at all which is kind of the point, right? That said, I probably wouldn't think about it at all even if I didn't have a shelf. Cheap insurance I guess.
 
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I tried glass a few years back and found it conducted heat away less efficiently and wore out quicker than steel (which can be re-ground many times and in less time than it takes to fit a new piece of glass)

So I don't get it why people use the stuff. Maybe I was doing something wrong!

Double sided tape held it on just fine.
 
Bühlmann said:
If you can confidently predict your glass will break (if it ever does) in a manner that will not allow the sharp fragments to shoot through that gap between your screws like a hockey goal then you should be fine. If you can't accurately predict how your glass will fracture it makes much more sense to use a shelf to completely block off the most dangerous path for broken pyroceram glass to be launched in your waist-down direction. A shelf may not be necessary, but you've done 85% of the work of installing one already, so you may as well finish it and have something that actually performs as intended if it's ever needed plus the peace of mind that comes with it. As you have it currently configured, it really isn't serving as much of safety shelf at all. YMMV, of course.

I use full length double-sided Gorilla tape and have a welded shelf. I guess that makes me a "belt & suspenders" guy, but I don't think about it at all which is kind of the point, right? That said, I probably wouldn't think about it at all even if I didn't have a shelf. Cheap insurance I guess.
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It is glued so no problem if glass break .Problem is when glue fall .I don t know about others , but on my grinders while I grind plate behind edge glass or ceramic get very hot .Once on one grinder epoxy fall and that two thin screws hold plate and disaster did not happen ................Now I use polyurethane sealant , it can handle much more temperature .....
 
navman said:
Mine is mounted with tapped screws and JB Weld and has been working just fine. Just be aware that the screw heads make stick out past the glass, in which case you will want to grind them back below the glass surface level.
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Fasten them from the back side of plate and tighten tightly.
 
Mike Read said:
I tried glass a few years back and found it conducted heat away less efficiently and wore out quicker than steel (which can be re-ground many times and in less time than it takes to fit a new piece of glass)

So I don't get it why people use the stuff. Maybe I was doing something wrong!

Double sided tape held it on just fine.
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I agree with that .On one grinder now I have Tungsten carbide plate , big difference. If anyone knows where TC plate 5 x 0.5 x 20cm can be bought............
 
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Bühlmann said:
A shelf may not be necessary, but you've done 85% of the work of installing one already, so you may as well finish it and have something that actually performs as intended if it's ever needed plus the peace of mind that comes with it.
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Actually, you're right. I'm gonna stick with my original plan. Thanks.
 
Natlek said:
I agree with that .On one grinder now I have Tungsten carbide plate , big difference. If anyone knows where TC plate 5 x 0.5 x 20cm can be bought............
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The tungsten platen works out good for you?
Just ordered tungsten plate 3mm thick.
Going to mill a steel plate with and edge on it and silverslolder or jb weld it on.
If it works out going to definitely make more of those platens
 
I replace my glass bout every 6-8 months or so. I have a welded lip and use JB Weld. I have to use a torch to get that stuff off. I've never had the JB Weld come loose.
 
I used to use job weld, but after reading Salem Straub’s double sided tape method I gave it a try and liked it.
 
RD_knives said:
The tungsten platen works out good for you?
Just ordered tungsten plate 3mm thick.
Going to mill a steel plate with and edge on it and silverslolder or jb weld it on.
If it works out going to definitely make more of those platens
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Of course it works good. It is metal so it conduct heat fast and it is hard as it can be hard ..... .Can you find 5mm thick TC with two tapered holes for mounting ?
 
Natlek said:
Of course it works good. It is metal so it conduct heat fast and it is hard as it can be hard ..... .Can you find 5mm thick TC with two tapered holes for mounting ?
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Dont know if my supplier does the tapered holes aswell. They have 5mm i know for sure.
But think that will be pretty more expensive aswel. So why not silversolder or jb weld to a milled base plate?
 
I was curious and checked my ceramic platen today and it was in need of replacing, very worn. So I pulled out my old A2 platen ran it through the surface grinder and walked away from ceramic glass platens.
 
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