Glock Field Knife

Joined
Jul 16, 2007
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1,794
I know this has been discussed before, I have been in on those discussions. I came across a great deal on one, and picked it up to increase my first hand knowledge. Here you go

Steel: This is a low hardness carbon alloy steel of some kind. I would guess it is in the 1055 category or similar. It does not hold its edge well at all. It sharpens best when you start with a file and work your way to a diamond stone and then ceramic stones. I spent the better part of an hour putting a workable edge on it. The grind was inconsistent so parts of the blade took the edge quickly and other parts did not. I threw it, batonned some hard wood with it, and cut some sod. It went from decent edge to no edge pretty quick. The tip (slightly rounded to begin with) held up, no bending after batoning and throwing.

Handle: Plastic with a metal guard, plastic plug type pommell. This held up well to repeated misses on throws (pommel end first) and batonning. I hammered it in classically, wood on blade, and then also as a wedge, like a nail. It took both the wood baton and the steel hammer face of an axe very well.

Overall Impressions: It performs like a bayonet. It is narrow blade and thick. You can get the edges sharp, and you can do some light to moderate cutting with it no problem. Any substantive work and it will lose the edge quickly. Think some of the 1055 carbon throwing knives out there, they have similar edge retention. It is a tough knife, but tough as in sharpened pry bar. I can baton RAT's, Kabars, my Ontario AFSK and my new Benchmade CSK II into wood and they retain their cutting edge, the Glock knife did not. What you get is reflected in the price, 20-30 dollars does not get you much, and since it is priced at the same point as many throwing knives made of Carbon Steel, look there for your comparisons. Is it a "bad" knife? No, it simply has its limitations. I had fun throwing it, testing it, etc. It is not a serious contender for use in any of my kits, so it has a rightful place in a shoe box for days when I feel like throwing a knife around, or I want sharpening practice. 10-20 bucks more and you have a KaBar. 30-40 bucks more and you have some of more woods/camp/survival style blades ala Ontario/RAT, Benchmade, Cold Steel, etc. blades.
 
Hi, Smash05, good review.:thumbup:

Have you ever try to clean the blade with the alcohol ? After discussing in the former thread (http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=551314), I have borrowed a G81 from a friend who bought the knife at the same time with me to test the hardness and edge retention again (the prior test was years before) before my approaching the GLOCK company concerning these findings of low hardness. This knife reminds me that the surface coating of the GFK's blade of this batch was weird. Wiping with the alcohol-soaked tissues you got blued tissues. The web page of Glock writes that the blade has a phosphated surface, but it definitely not the case of my ex- and my friend's GFKs.
After the discussion with Way-O in the aforementioned thread, I have checked the spec.s of GFK on the website of Glock perfection and wonder that my GFKs were poor copycats from China. However, I can’t tell from the stamp on the sheath and blade of the G81. I wonder that you guys also have the same experiences. It can tell something. Besides, if yes then you have better put this knife far away from food preparation.
 
My tang stamp specifically says Austria on it. It's just not much of a knife, and it does not surprise me that it is mil spec at all. Mil Spec does not mean good, it means adequate ;) The hardness was in my view left intentionally low to increase toughness.
 
Wow. I have always wondered about these and although I did not expect a great slicer it was disapointing to hear how little edge retention it has. My cheap 1055 knives hold an edge just fine.
 
Wow. I have always wondered about these and although I did not expect a great slicer it was disapointing to hear how little edge retention it has. My cheap 1055 knives hold an edge just fine.

I have worked on the knife a little more, thinning out the grinds and testing it against a KaBar and CSK II. It is possible to get it to take a better edge, but it takes some time with a file and diamond stones. Its not worth the effort for a cheapo knife. But I like to have all my knives sharp. Right now as I said it is a thrower and also, I could hand it out to someone in an emergency if they needed a hard use knife.
 
This knife reminds me that the surface coating of the GFK's blade of this batch was weird. Wiping with the alcohol-soaked tissues you got blued tissues. The web page of Glock writes that the blade has a phosphated surface, but it definitely not the case of my ex- and my friend's GFKs.

I just tried this on my Glock FK 78, using ~70% ethanol and a paper tissue. It did remove some color and left a dull spot, with very little effort. Seems like alcohol dissolves the coating. This is not a good thing and I'm sure we all agree that any permanent coating on a knife blade should withstand such basic chemicals.

Note: I tested it on the crossguard, since I've already removed the coating from the blade itself a long time ago. It was getting quite worn and I took it off with dilute phosphoric acid (rust remover), which was very efficient, and sanded the blade to a satin finish. It should be the same coating on both parts, though.
 
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