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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Going price for
- Thread starter RWBlue
- Start date
I did some more googling last night.
I believe I have 2, James I Battle Sword, Broadsword, Two Hands, "Battle-Ready" Length 52" Weight 4.4 Lbs This sword is 2-1/2 feet long, you need two hands!
http://www.collectibleswordsusa.com/James-I-Battle-Sword-SFT530-p-16320.html
Mine might look better than the current model because of the markings going down the blade (James 1 scrollwork, made in Toledo Spain)
There is nothing wrong with them, my interests have turned toward smaller more useful knifes. I bought them several years ago. Never used them to clang together, or stick anyone. I forgot about them until I was looking in a closet. I also found some other items that I would be tempted to sell, but I would like to figure out the process first.
The only issue I see is the grips are cheap. They look ok for a wall hanger, but I would rewrap them if I was going to use them for something more serious. Real leather would be great for historically accurate grips. The padded material used for tennis rackets wood be more useful.
I have never looked into the secondary market, so I don't know where to sell them and what would be a fair value.
HolyRoller
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2007
- Messages
- 669
The swords you have are the exact ones in the link? Because that listing is pretty shady. For that price, they should clearly label what type of steel the sword is constructed from, as well as the company that actually produced them.
If it's from Toledo, it's probably Marto, which means they aren't functional, just expensive wallhangers.
Your best bet to sell them is through ebay, and you probably won't get much. You can try places like SwordForum.com(though new registration is currently suspended) or the SBG forum(http://sbgswordforum.proboards70.com/index.cgi).
There is something off about the overall design about this model. Take some pictures. How much did you spend on them, and how long ago? Are they rusted at all?
I would honestly be surprised if you get more than $350 for both, considering what they are, factored in with current market and economic trends.
PS: A lot of swords are sold under the term "battle ready", but this means nothing. It's a buzz-word which isn't legally controllable, so arguably I could sell a pencil as "battle ready". In the past few years, the market has actually caught on to the spread of better information, so "high-carbon spring-steel" has become the same thing. It sounds like it's good quality, but it describes a properly heat-treated sword made from 5160 steel as it does a crap heat-treat to 1045.
If it's from Toledo, it's probably Marto, which means they aren't functional, just expensive wallhangers.
Your best bet to sell them is through ebay, and you probably won't get much. You can try places like SwordForum.com(though new registration is currently suspended) or the SBG forum(http://sbgswordforum.proboards70.com/index.cgi).
There is something off about the overall design about this model. Take some pictures. How much did you spend on them, and how long ago? Are they rusted at all?
I would honestly be surprised if you get more than $350 for both, considering what they are, factored in with current market and economic trends.
PS: A lot of swords are sold under the term "battle ready", but this means nothing. It's a buzz-word which isn't legally controllable, so arguably I could sell a pencil as "battle ready". In the past few years, the market has actually caught on to the spread of better information, so "high-carbon spring-steel" has become the same thing. It sounds like it's good quality, but it describes a properly heat-treated sword made from 5160 steel as it does a crap heat-treat to 1045.
I don't see any rust.
They are at least 10 years old.
They are maked James I. I don't know if they are the same or a different company, same design. I am not finding a lot that looks like them.
I remember other swords that were marked collectible and these were marked high carbon and there were suppose to be able to fight with these. Is there a way of telling if these are fighting swords or just wall hangers?
They are at least 10 years old.
They are maked James I. I don't know if they are the same or a different company, same design. I am not finding a lot that looks like them.
I remember other swords that were marked collectible and these were marked high carbon and there were suppose to be able to fight with these. Is there a way of telling if these are fighting swords or just wall hangers?
HolyRoller
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2007
- Messages
- 669
Well, the fact that they are rust free after sitting in a closet for years, unattended, lends credence to the steel being stainless. Not a good sign. (And stainless wallhangers are very often sold as functional, which is sad...)
There's no safe way of proving the functionality of a sword of unknown origin. The testing required is potentially destructive.
If you can, take and post photos. If possible, see if you can remove the hilt(if the pommel or pommel-nut screws on... if the pommel is peened, it's not happening). Taking photos of the tang would help somewhat.
I don't think the lack of rust is a good sign of anything. I have gun stuff sitting not far from the swords. They are not rusted either. I have been accused of having a dry house, but I keep bourbon. 
What are you looking for in the photos? I have a small point and click camera. Because of the quality of the camera, if I take an overall shot it is pretty useless. It looks like the one I posted earlier. If I know what I am trying to see I can make sure it is in the photo. I also need a decently warm dry day to do this outside.
The pommel unscrews. I am not really impressed with the threading, but I am use to guns threaded for suppressors.
What are you looking for in the photos? I have a small point and click camera. Because of the quality of the camera, if I take an overall shot it is pretty useless. It looks like the one I posted earlier. If I know what I am trying to see I can make sure it is in the photo. I also need a decently warm dry day to do this outside.
The pommel unscrews. I am not really impressed with the threading, but I am use to guns threaded for suppressors.
HolyRoller
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2007
- Messages
- 669
I don't think the lack of rust is a good sign of anything. I have gun stuff sitting not far from the swords. They are not rusted either. I have been accused of having a dry house, but I keep bourbon.
What are you looking for in the photos? I have a small point and click camera. Because of the quality of the camera, if I take an overall shot it is pretty useless. It looks like the one I posted earlier. If I know what I am trying to see I can make sure it is in the photo. I also need a decently warm dry day to do this outside.
The pommel unscrews. I am not really impressed with the threading, but I am use to guns threaded for suppressors.
Take a photo of the tang.
HolyRoller
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2007
- Messages
- 669
Definitely non-functional.
The tang is far too narrow at the shoulder. The threaded extension isn't welded on properly, and is also far too long. Wallhangers are made this way to make handle-manufacturing easier(only need to drill a hole as oppose to chisel and laminate, or drill and burn).
If these were sold to you under the pretense of being functional blades, you were screwed over. Even if the blade material is good, the tang construction is far too shoddy to support a functional blade.
If you want to move them cheap, I suggest posting them for sale on the SBG forum. If you charge less than $100, you can probably get rid of them as project blades which weill be butchered for their hilt parts, and maybe the blades shortened and experimented on. Other than that, they are wallhangers or costume pieces.
The tang is far too narrow at the shoulder. The threaded extension isn't welded on properly, and is also far too long. Wallhangers are made this way to make handle-manufacturing easier(only need to drill a hole as oppose to chisel and laminate, or drill and burn).
If these were sold to you under the pretense of being functional blades, you were screwed over. Even if the blade material is good, the tang construction is far too shoddy to support a functional blade.
If you want to move them cheap, I suggest posting them for sale on the SBG forum. If you charge less than $100, you can probably get rid of them as project blades which weill be butchered for their hilt parts, and maybe the blades shortened and experimented on. Other than that, they are wallhangers or costume pieces.