Good alternatives to Parks AAA quench for O1 ?

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steelerfan88

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Feb 16, 2015
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Can I get some good opinions and testaments to an alternative to Parks AAA oil ? I am tired of trying to locate it in my area and refuse to pay the ridiculous price and shipping costs. I am using O1 via stock removal BTW :) I have never tried peanut oil but others have said they like it....I don't know......maybe worth a try ? McMaster/Carr 11 second oil looks good and is affordable....anybody out there used the Mac/Car oil for O1 ? if so.......what say you ?
 
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O1 has about 10 seconds to get past the pearlite nose, so just about anything will work. And there are lots of companies that make quenching oils, so I'm sure you can find something. Where are you located?
 
I use the McMaster carr 11 second oil on O1. I like it. It seems to work well and while I don't fully trust my tester it seems to respond according to the charts using that oil.
 
I have read where many folks have used peanut, canola and mineral oils for O1. I am just wanting to get a good RC that will be durable (not too brittle) and hold a great edge. I need consistency as I am going to be offering my blades for sale at local shows once I get the HT process down good. It is frustrating when you ask 20 people and get 20 different answers. The Parks AAA is widely accepted as THE BEST for O1 but trying to get it in my area is not going to happen let alone the ridiculous price it sells/ships at......no thanks. If peanut or canola oil will yield good, solid results then that is what I will use but if the RC is not going to be optimal and buying a quench oil like Mac/Carr will be a better route than I will do that. The Mac/Carr oil seems to be reasonably priced. I am shopping for a HT oven as we speak and will have one in a month or so. I realize I can send my blades out to Peters but I do not like having to rely on others for anything if I can help it. The less hands in my "cookie jar" means more money in MY jar :)
 
Maxin Oil should sell it, since they sell Parks 50. On their Heat treating Products page it says this under their "Salts" catagory...

"Salts"

"Maxim manufactures no salts for heat treating applications. However; Maxim represents Heatbath Park Metalurgical Corp. in Springfield, Ma for salt bath applications including; quenching, hardening, tempering, case hardening, etc."


Just send them an email if you want to get some from them and I'm sure they'll have it.. When I got my Parks 50 a couple years ago it costs $120 after shipping for a 5 gallon pail, which will probably last years and years. If you aren't wanting to use canola oil etc, I don't think that is all that expensive considering heat treating is one of the (or thee) most important aspects of making a good knife that will hold up to use. If you plan to sell, I'd say it's a pretty small investment considering, especially since you're planning on gettin a HT oven anyway.. Just my 2 cents.. :)

Here's their Heat Treating Products page: http://www.maximoil.com/products.htm#Heat Treating Products

Just send them an email to the address shown at the bottom of the page.

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
 
The Houghton 11-13 second oil is supposed to be just as good and is alleged to have a longer life with no need to use additive to "freshen" it up like some Parks. The REALLY fast Houghton is supposed to be as good as #50, but I don't know if I have ever seen it available from anyone that we deal with. The 11-13 second stuff can be had easily as I do believe that Brownell's Tough Quench is still the repackaged Houghton stuff. Pricey, but if you only need a gallon or two, it is an option.
 
steelerfan88 said:
I have read where many folks have used peanut, canola and mineral oils for O1. I am just wanting to get a good RC that will be durable (not too brittle) and hold a great edge.
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You may be misunderstanding what the quenching is doing. O-1 will fully harden in a medium speed oil such as canola, peanut, etc. So post-quench your O-1 should be 65 Rc. This is super brittle like any properly hardened steel. You then temper to the appropriate Rc for your knife's geometry, intended use, and IQ of your customers.

I've done exactly one knife in O-1 so far but it turned out super hard, I was very happy with it.

steelerfan88 said:
I need consistency
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This part of the process will be consistent, at least for knife-thickness pieces of metal. The accuracy of your hardening and tempering temperatures is where the inconsistency can come from.

steelerfan88 said:
The Parks AAA is widely accepted as THE BEST for O1
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I haven't heard this for O-1. Everything I've read says it's not fussy about quenching. I'm sure pros don't mess around with cooking oils. They don't last forever and if you're doing lots of knives the Parks cost is unimportant.
 
just like to makea note thata faster quench is better so long as no cracking happens. get the steel as hard as you can in quench then temper to the spec you need
i have been quenching O1 in parks50 for a whiel now. remember air quench steels have data sheets for slow oil.
 
Even the highest priced quench oil is not expensive. It's price shouldn't even be a consideration.
The sale of just a couple rather inexpensive knives cover the cost of something you will be using for years to come. And you will know what you have is of high quality and consistent.
 
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