Good basic sharpening set?

Joined
Aug 29, 2005
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14
I've got a Lansky set with the clamp and rod jig setup, but think I'd rather go with a regular flat stone set. What types should I get? Diamond, arkansas, etc.? Feel free to point me to any previous articles on the subject.
 
I would say the spyderco sharpmaker, its easy to use and sharpens well, they sell it for relatively cheap, about $50 on New Graham Knives
 
I second the suggestion of the Sharpmaker. It is an awesome sharpening tool!! Very versatile. I love mine!!

Ron
 
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DMT DiaSharp Coarse for the hard work and Sharpmaker for the finish, followed by a good strop from Hand American Made.
 
The sharpmaker is great but before I had that I used a Fallkniven DC04 stone. Diamond one side, ceramic the other. It still gets used now and again for reprofiling as the sharpmaker isn't coarse enough for that.
 
Not directly useable with the Lansky, but ...

I got my first ever Norton combination stone (coarse on one side, fine India on the other) this week and I'm impressed by how well it works. That and a bottle of mineral oil will accomplish a lot of sharpening needs for a very small investment).
 
Rhino, 100% agree!!!! Only I don't use mineral oil but Johnson Baby Oil! The eternal quesion is: must we turn to some tricks (=jigs) in sharpening too? Ours working day is not enought?
- Nedo Cervar
 
I think most people can learn to sharpen knives without jigs, but it's really tough to do a good job on chisels and similar blades (and knives ground like them) without some kind of mechanical assistance to maintain the angle.

I did some el cheapo (made in China) spokeshave blades yesterday that wouldn't cut anything from the box. Once I knocked the burr off of the back side (the flat) and polished the angled face a bit with the fine India, they will work okay. Of course, with a jig and some fine grit water stones then a strop ... but I digress!
 
Discipline needs dedication. With that say, everyones are free to do as they please. Sharpening free hand is my divertissement and no jig consents the right sensitivity. To maintain the angle, normally I put my tumb over the spine, parallel with the stone at the desidered angle, and control the top of my tumbnail so it's costantly parallel during the sharpening job. Believe me, painting the bevels with the magic marker you will note a perfect sharpening trail all along. The angle is always that what you want, not the angle
predetermined by jigs.
-Nedo Cervar
 
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