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Good (Cheap) Axe prop?

Joined
Nov 25, 2012
Messages
220
Hey, so I'm interested in getting a decent axe prop for halloween (ideally a flathead), but not in paying 50 bucks for one time use. I don't know if this should go here, since technically it isn't an actual axe, but if you can direct me to a real axe less than 50 bucks, well that would be just fine as well.
 
Look through the "It followed me home" thread and you will see plenty of real axes for well under $50. They come from a wide variety of souces.
 
whats a flat head?

you can get a truper or collins ax for much less than $50, harbor freight sells cheap axes also, probably less than 20 or 30 dollars..

hell, you could even get a council single or double bit for less than $40.00, and those are actual "good" axes..
 
whats a flat head?

you can get a truper or collins ax for much less than $50, harbor freight sells cheap axes also, probably less than 20 or 30 dollars..

hell, you could even get a council single or double bit for less than $40.00, and those are actual "good" axes..

In the fire service we have flathead and pick head axes, the former with a flat side opposite the blade on the head, the latter with a spike opposite the blade on the head. Both can be used for breaching (the flathead for pounding in a halligan bar, etc).

Thanks for the recommendations, I'll definitely take a look
 
you can also get true temper axes at menards, or other "hardware" or "lumber" store.

the flathead you speak of are called single bit axes, or poll axes. the flat side is the "poll"

i googled flathead ax, and quickly figured you were in the fire/emergency field.
 
I don't know if you plan to blunt the edge or not before heading out but having done several holloweens as "lumberjack" or "Grim Reaper" with a double bit and an authentic scythe I'll lay a false edge of black duct tape that sticks out a good quarter inch from the real edge just to reduce the possibility of an injury while I'm out partying.
 
I don't know if you plan to blunt the edge or not before heading out but having done several holloweens as "lumberjack" or "Grim Reaper" with a double bit and an authentic scythe I'll lay a false edge of black duct tape that sticks out a good quarter inch from the real edge just to reduce the possibility of an injury while I'm out partying.

i agree. i would file the edge completely off the ax, and then tape the edge pretty well. even a blunt unsharpened edge can take off toes or break a foot if dropped from shoulder height.
 
i agree. i would file the edge completely off the ax, and then tape the edge pretty well. even a blunt unsharpened edge can take off toes or break a foot if dropped from shoulder height.

My issue was that my axe and scythe were sharpened tools that I actually used (and intended to keep using) and so did not want to blunt edges that I would later have to resharpen. The black tape allowed for a "safety" edge that I could easily remove when I put the tool back in use.

I would lay two pieces of tape on each side, sort of sandwiching the metal, and then trim the tape with scissors so as to give the appearance of a sharp edge with pointed tips that would still allow for the errant drunkard to bump in to it without impaling himself.
 
Hey, so I'm interested in getting a decent axe prop for halloween (ideally a flathead), but not in paying 50 bucks for one time use. I don't know if this should go here, since technically it isn't an actual axe, but if you can direct me to a real axe less than 50 bucks, well that would be just fine as well.
Trace out an outlandish broadaxe pattern on a piece of aircraft plywood and go forth with glue and belt sander (and spray paints) to make it look real. The new Ottawa CFL football team 'Redblacks' features a lumberjack mascot wielding an oversize axe and for sure that one is outright phony (likely foam plastic) but effectively plays the part. At a costume party a real axe has weight and is not very big, whereas a hatchet or boy's axe is going to look like a toy.
 
Hey, so I'm interested in getting a decent axe prop for halloween (ideally a flathead), but not in paying 50 bucks for one time use. I don't know if this should go here, since technically it isn't an actual axe, but if you can direct me to a real axe less than 50 bucks, well that would be just fine as well.
Trace out an outlandish broadaxe pattern on a piece of aircraft plywood and go forth with glue and belt sander (and spray paints) to make it look real. The new Ottawa CFL football team 'Redblacks' features a lumberjack mascot wielding an oversize axe and for sure that one is outright phony (likely foam plastic) but effectively plays the part. At a costume party a real axe has weight and is not very big, whereas a hatchet or boy's axe is going to look like a toy.
 
Trace out an outlandish broadaxe pattern on a piece of aircraft plywood and go forth with glue and belt sander (and spray paints) to make it look real. The new Ottawa CFL football team 'Redblacks' features a lumberjack mascot wielding an oversize axe and for sure that one is outright phony (likely foam plastic) but effectively plays the part. At a costume party a real axe has weight and is not very big, whereas a hatchet or boy's axe is going to look like a toy.

Yeah, I might make a simple wooden prop myself, thanks for the pointer; a real axe would be both a pain to lug around and a pain to screw around with.

the flathead you speak of are called single bit axes, or poll axes. the flat side is the "poll"

thanks for the clear up on terminology
 
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