Good entry level bike?

B

BChou-E29

Joined
Dec 4, 2009
Messages
503
Hello everyone! I'm usually creeping in the makers section so G&G is a little new for me. After going on a 60 mile bike trip to Sandy Hook I quickly realized how inadequate my $100 K-Mart bike was (speed changer, wheel going out of alignment, and rear brake breaking). I'm not a hardcore cycler but I do use a bike to get there and back from cross country practice Mon-Sat since I don't have a DL yet. Anyways... I was wondering if any of the bike guys on the forum know of any decent starter bikes below or around $300. I don't anticipate that I will be doing any XC touring on it but there are a couple curbs on my daily route so it should be able to take some abuse. I do enjoy the occasional biking excursion with my buddies so off road capabilities would also be nice. Thanks for the help guys :)
 
sounds like you could use a dual (front & back) suspension mountain bike. As for brands or anything in that price range, I do not know.
 
The best thing to do is go to the different bike shops near where you live and test ride them. Don't buy anything from Wal Mart, Target, KMart..... Mainly because they're cheap and your going to get pretty much the same quality you already have. If you buy from a reputable bike shop, they usually include free tune ups for the original buyer, not to mention they actually know something about what they're selling! Adjusting the gears is pretty tricky if you don't know what you're doing! I can't really recommend a brand.... depends on what type of bike you want. I ride Orbea, but their pricey.

Another thing to keep in mind is that if you ride on pavement with off road tires, they will slow you down a lot! I know some guys who have and extra set of thin street rims with slicks for their mtn bikes. Also, most newer bikes have aluminum rims which will bend if you ram curbs too hard, but they can be brought back to true by adjusting the spokes.

Good luck!
 
You can pick up any entry level bike from a decent bike shop for around 350. If you are only occasionally riding off road I wouldn't go with a full suspension, stick with front suspension only. You get more for your money in terms of build quality and better pedaling efficiency. You can also find decent $500 bikes used on craigslist that you can probably pick up in your price range. Good luck.
 
Yep, never buying a bike from a dept. store ever again... I agree that dual suspension isn't for me as they're quite pricey and no good if you're going to be riding on pavement. I'll definitely check the local bike shops but craigslist is always an option. I've seen some decent names (Diamondback, Giant) go up on sale but my concern is will a bike frame tailored to the original buyer work for me?
 
A few things. I've been an avid mountain biker for 8 years....

1) Go to a bike shop. Not a department store. Not an REI. Not a chain bike store like Performance. A bike shop.

2) Get fitted for proper size.

3) Quality > Features in biking. Always buy quality over features.

4) Ask the bike shop to teach you how to properly take care of your bike.

5) Enjoy.
 
quattrokid73 said:
A few things. I've been an avid mountain biker for 8 years....

1) Go to a bike shop. Not a department store. Not an REI. Not a chain bike store like Performance. A bike shop.

2) Get fitted for proper size.

3) Quality > Features in biking. Always buy quality over features.

4) Ask the bike shop to teach you how to properly take care of your bike.

5) Enjoy.
Click to expand...

Win. Properly adjusted, properly assembled, properly maintained bikes beat ALL else. Period. Honestly, I'd recommend a non-suspension bike in that range- your money will go towards good components instead of so-so suspension and worse components. Once rode a target bike that wasn't assemble correctly- turned the bars but the headset wasn't fully secured, so the bars turned and the fork didn't... flew over the bars and skidded on my hands. Swore off riding crappy bikes since then (though they have their place at events where they are used as transportation, slowly, and they stand a good chance of being stolen).

Zero
 
To spend $300 on a bike is like spending $10 on a knife - you get what you pay for, but if all you need it to do is cut, then $10 will work just fine. Go to a reputable bike shop. Get something that you are comfortable on. And save the bells and whistles - ie suspension - for later if you want to spend more on your next bike. As far as brands go, Giant are one of the best value for money bikes on the market, defiantly not boutique, but they get the job done.
 
quattrokid73 said:
A few things. I've been an avid mountain biker for 8 years....

1) Go to a bike shop. Not a department store. Not an REI. Not a chain bike store like Performance. A bike shop.

2) Get fitted for proper size.

3) Quality > Features in biking. Always buy quality over features.

4) Ask the bike shop to teach you how to properly take care of your bike.

5) Enjoy.
Click to expand...

Prett good summary.

Avoid the big box stores because the employees are a crapshoot (do they care, do they know what they are doing, did they assemble it right .... etc.) Especially if you go off road, on rough roads/sidewalks, over curbs, etc.you really need the right size frame which is generally smaller then most people think. Always buy quality over features. More cheap features means lower quality basics that will break more often.

For value, if YOU are EDUCATED you can do good on last year closeouts from a chain like Performance Bicycle for example. However, can you spot the employees that were flipping burgers or sacking groceries yesterday over the ones that rode 20 miles to get to work that day?

In your price range, you really need to get last years close out in a fitness/cross country style. They will be a little heaver then a dedicated street bicycle (lot heavier then a traditional "10" speed) but will have the frame to really put power down going up hill and over curbs. 18 gears is plenty so, again buy quality not 21 gears (which you probably won't use).

Used is an option but buyer beware. A poorly maintained model will cost you a lot of $$ and frustration to get on the road. However, like gym memberships, a weekend warrior model ridden once and then used as a clothes rack for two years CAN be a good value.
 
If you're going to be riding mainly on streets, curbs, and such, for that price you want to keep it as simple as possible. Any sort of suspension is just going to add weight. Instead of hybrids or mountain bikes, you might want to look at "urban" or "city" bikes. Mountain bikes have lower gearing and beefier frames, hybrids try to do too much at once with cheap components. Check out Kona Bike's Simplicity and Asphalt lines, Redline's Metro line, and Bianchi's Cross Terrain and Camaleonte lines are going to give you good bikes for the price.
 
I've been pretty happy with my Boulder SE -- made by Giant, which is the house brand for the company that makes frames for several other brands, like Trek.
Frame comes in several sizes, the rest of the components are decent, etc...
you're not likely to win any races with it (steel frame), but it's a good entry level platform.
 
BChou-E29 said:
Hello everyone! I'm usually creeping in the makers section so G&G is a little new for me. After going on a 60 mile bike trip to Sandy Hook I quickly realized how inadequate my $100 K-Mart bike was (speed changer, wheel going out of alignment, and rear brake breaking). I'm not a hardcore cycler but I do use a bike to get there and back from cross country practice Mon-Sat since I don't have a DL yet. Anyways... I was wondering if any of the bike guys on the forum know of any decent starter bikes below or around $300. I don't anticipate that I will be doing any XC touring on it but there are a couple curbs on my daily route so it should be able to take some abuse. I do enjoy the occasional biking excursion with my buddies so off road capabilities would also be nice. Thanks for the help guys :)
Click to expand...
The bike shop advice is spot on! Get fitted properly - and do get on several brands because minor frame and hardware differences can make a big deal out of little details. I do think you should patronize a real bike shop and look for last years or even two seasons ago bikes- some excellent deals can be found on 'used lists' like craigslist etc. If you pick up a used bike...the bike shop that fitted you should get the accessories sales.
 
My Specialized Hardrock has given me over 20 years of good service (okay, 15 years of great service and the last 5 sitting in my barn while I sit on the couch).

I've noticed the entry level Specialized prices are still pretty reasonable. Based upon what you said you need it for, I don't think you'd need any kind of suspension which adds to the price considerably.
 
Pretty good advice all round. I too say avoid full suspension. A good rear shock absorber alone will cost more than your budget. You won't see decent full-suspension bikes much under 1000.00.
Just adds complexity for most riders.
Give some thought to a hybrid or what they are calling "fitness" or "comfort" bikes these days. These will do just about anything you wish to do, generally are priced a bit lower than an equivalent mountain bike, and will handle light trail riding.
Fit is paramount.
You will never be happy with a bike that is not properly fitted, and you may cause yourself injury.
Often, this time of year, you can take advantage of "back to school" sales or a month or two later...Clearance sales.
 
Buying from your local bike shop is a good idea. At the lower end there's not too much differentiation in features between brands so don't worry about what brand to look for. A good shop will fit you to your bike which is more important than squeezing the most out of your money.

You can buy a bike from BikesDirect.com which is pretty nice, you get great parts on a pretty good frame, but you'll have to learn to tune it up yourself or pay your LBS to do it for you. Also worth noting is that while a deal is a deal, you do get some junk parts-- for instance, the seatpost and seat on my friend's $1K+ mountain bike was complete rubbish and we had to replace them after the second ride. But the superb shocks, derailleurs/shifters and brakes on the bike make it already worth the $1K. OTOH I bought a simple fixed-gear track bike from them and haven't had a single problem, then again, I paid $300 whereas you can buy a $100 "mountain bike" elsewhere. Lessons learned: You get what you pay for, or, be prepared to sink more money into a BD.com bike than what it costs to get it originally.
 
Look at the alumninum frame entry-level mountain bikes from Giant, Trek or Specialized. I've had two of the three brands and they'll do just fine if you're not a hardcore rider. When I had the Trek I rode to school everyday and all over town and in the parks on the weekend. Paid less than 300 and had it for 3 years no trouble. The Giant that I have now I've had for five years and still going strong. I'm sure you'll learn to tune it yourself and maintain it.

Bike nuts are like knife knuts; they'll always want you go get more than what you need. Follow the advice from the people above and you'll be fine.
 
Take a look at the GT offerings ... they make a great bike

2010 GT Outpost Disc Mountain Bike:

gt10outpostbluelg.jpg
 
I don't think $300 is going to get a very decent bike unless you happen to find a good deal on a used one. The $300 - $400 bikes are going to skimp on quality somewhere which may lead to more expenses and hassle down the road although they're still leaps and bounds better than the target/walmart bikes. I'd plan on paying between $500 and $900 for a decent entry level bike that will give a lifetime of flawless riding. I purchased a Kona Nunu in 1998 for around $700 and it's still going strong with absolutely no repairs and only one initial tune up.
 
If you're going to spend a lot of time on the road, steer clear of shocks. Shocks are great on downhill and bumpy terrain, but when on the road they actually take more energy from your ride. It's more effecient to have a solid frame & forks on the road. But, having the cushion on the trails is more effecient because you aren't fighting your bike.
 
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